The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Agree
Not sure what they should cost, but the lock geometry should not be that hard to figure out. I mean if one angle doean't work, then try something else and keep going until you find what does work.
It's not a good fix, sticking a cap on the Ti side of the stop pin is kind of a ghetto type fix, especially now that the knives all went up in price and still have this issue.
Machined parts often tells the tale and resulted evidence can be interesting.
Original stop pin as shown next to my home made, roughed out two piece Ti interlocking stop pin:
Original's rather soft, removed steel stop pin, shown having multiple distortion, predominately along in the center portion, most likely to compensate for the less than perfect "press fit" dimension of the receiving hole - than it was "Press fit" into blade hole. As experience with most mass production product, lacking good quality controls, this company has experienced it fair shares of cracked blade due to improper relationship of "fit" between stop pin and receiving harden blade hole.
:thumbup:
My curiosity as to why there were so many complaints on the infamous lock rock - among others, but most absurd is a knife at this price range, requiring a breaking in - lead me to purchased my Monkeyedge's exclusive, latest generation SnG w/PD-1.
I don't know about other's SnG, but on mine new designed PD-1's, it developed problem after 3 weeks of breaking in - just normal open/close without aggressive flicks to loosen up the sluggish pivot - that was after I made a proper tool to loosen up the pivot without undue damage:
Lock up percentage increased everyday until lock rock was developed. "MY" root cause was the rough finish on the blade tang's locking interface, acting much like a file, which accelerated wear on the soft Ti lock bar with each open/close.
I am fairly capable as to the mechanics of making simple fixes, along with avoiding on warranty work that shouldn't have required in the first place and besides expensive shipping cost for warranty, also knowing warranty fix is not a permanent fix.
Among a host of other modes to make the SnG uniquely my own. I took care of the terrible interface tang finish, heat treated the Ti lock bar interface to resist wear and made two piece Ti interlocking stop pin for a permanent fix on a knife that should not have left the maker the way it was:
***
Strider's fix - normally will replace the original stop pin with a step stop pin, the larger side engage the Ti to alter the angle of the blade tang(slight boomerang like curve)to restore the earlier engagement of the Ti lock bar and the G-10(presentation) side will not be be touching the handle slab. The lopsided replacement lock pin is clearly visible on repaired knives.
Both shrink tubing and "O" type fix are temporary at best - although shrink tubing is better because it is harder after heat exposure and yields less. Heat shrink tubing been extensively tried by "Blacksheep" over at the "other" more exclusive hardcore forum. Since stop pin is a secondary lock, with the Ti lock bar being the other locking mechanism combined to form Strider's double lock design - solid locking is made, requiring to have metal to metal contacts.
