Nail nick grinding

The faceting method makes a lot of sense. I can see how it would be easy to get the major sections the same. I will also try to half round file on the choil, i had just been cutting it with a dremel and not giving any thought to its shape.

Javand, you have never steered me wrong!
 
Last edited:
The faceting method makes a lot of sense. I can see how it would be easy to get the major sections the same. I will also try to half round file on the choil, i had just been cutting it with a dremel and not giving any thought to its shape.

Javand, you have never steered me wrong!

Happy to help. I have no shortage of help from other makers when I was figuring these things out, and am grateful for the opportunity to repay that debt.



If you ever need any specific input, feel free to PM, email, or call me.
 
Javan is a great teacher! Able to explain things in such way that i can visualize the process clearly as i read! He has never steered me wrong neither :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
One thing that helps me shaping the bolsters is removing the scales, bluing and scribing the curve on the bolster surface that butts against the scale.
I cut a mockup of that curve on a piece of paper (actually vulcanized fiber, something more rigid and durable than paper, thin steel or brass would do even better) and i use it as a template for scribing the same curve on both bolsters.
Then i first grind it flat, to the apex of the curve and then i facet through that profile. For the sides and the front i take reference lines at the surface plate as i go, with the height gauge (wannabe height gauge LOL...scribe+toolmaker vice).
Once i set the bolster radius i use them to scribe my scale radius...here you can decide to have the scales a bit proud at the joint, what they call heirloom fit or museum fit, since it would prevent the material to shrink exposing the sharp edge of the bolster with moisture minimal variation...down the road.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top