Name/logo stamping made easy!

Joined
Jul 27, 2003
Messages
5,699
With the slight bit of interest here lately on acquiring/making stamps and holders and how to correctly use one, I thought I might share what I have learned.
#1.) Don't use a hammer.
#2.) Make a press.
I spent a few years chasing my name stamp all over my blades and getting repeated double stamps, that I knew there had to be an easier way.
Even the arbor presses and alternative "stuff" just didn't work for me.
Hence, the following.
Pretty simple.
Get some scrap steel! What I have here is waaaaaaaaaaaayy over-kill, and can be done with much less stout steel. It just so happens that it's what I had available. What is here, however, could be acquired with little effort, and the control makes any expense worthwhile!!
I milled a slot out of a chunk of steel to accept the tang and keep it rigid.
Tapped and bolted on a face plate and a cap on the top.
Easy.
Set the blade on the top of the bottle jack and simply press the stamp into the blade!
You can even turn the stamp 90 degrees to stamp along the direction of the spine if you like.
Perfect EVERYTIME!!
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Thanks for the tip. I have been thinking about getting a stamp but was scared of it jumping and leaving a double stamp after putting a lot of time into a knife. I have a bottle jack and some scrap steel I am going to have to get on this.
 
Good looking set-up Karl. That's something like the way I do it here in my shop. It work out great. Thanks for showing it. God bless---------:)
 
GREAT looking mark(s) Karl !! (rutrow, I see the makings of a future funny there :D ;) )

Anyway...... :) that's one of the sharpest, cleanest marks I've seen. Thanks for sharing your secret :thumbup: Would you mind sharing the manufacturer of your stamp too ;) ?
 
I've had that for over 10 years - I forget where I got it. But I do remember that it was one of the two big makers at the time like Henry Evers or Harper Manufacturing.
It's not a matter of the stamp - I think it's a matter of application.
 
Looks good, Karl. I've gotten pretty good with 'hand held hammer stamping' but it's not the best way, by a long shot.

I been meaning to make a stamp press for years, Cashen posted one here a few years ago. I saved his photo somewhere.
 
Karl, Great looking set-up but for those with no way to build one, the 12 ton harbor frieght press also works great and can be had for a bout 99 bucks on sale. Apress is the only way to go with stamps.
Stan
 
Hey Karl,

Great pix. And a great solution to a never ending problem.

I am assuming that you are pressing the stamp with the tang cold. As opposed to the way I do it, which is while the tank is at forging temp.

Do you still get a deep crisp mark?? I know I have tried to cold stamp with a hammer and I never seem to get that deep crisp look...
Maybe, that's because I can't generate 20 ton with the hammer!!!

Steve
 
Hey Karl,

Great pix. And a great solution to a never ending problem.

I am assuming that you are pressing the stamp with the tang cold. As opposed to the way I do it, which is while the tank is at forging temp.

Do you still get a deep crisp mark?? I know I have tried to cold stamp with a hammer and I never seem to get that deep crisp look...
Maybe, that's because I can't generate 20 ton with the hammer!!!

Steve

Steve, I think that picture sort of speaks for itself. Once I finish out the knife, the stamp looks like it's cut in with a laser!
And, that's a 20 ton jack, but I don't use near the total capacity. I'm sure a small 10 ton would work just fine.
Also, Stan there, says Harbor Frieght has one for 99 bucks. You can get a 20 ton jack online for about $19.99. It's worth going to a welding shop and have a small frame welded up if you can't weld one yourself. I say that for the guys who may not have a welder.
 
I've been doing mine cold and with hammer for years but the size and shape of my stamp helps. The press is definitely a better way to go.

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The press is a good idea and would save more time than the way I did it which is self taught through mistakes and success.

Since I started knifemaking in the 1980's there was little on the subject of knifemaking.

I ordered my name stamp from Evers. And through trial and error here is my method.

Finish knife to only 220 grit and after all the holes are drilled and the blade is ready for HT then I stamp.

Heat the spot to be stamped to cherry red. Lay knife down on anvil. With the Evers stamp secured in vise grips place name end straight and level on the knife- this is very important since there is only once chance to strike it right.

Then give it one firm moderate blow, do not hold your breath, relax and strike. Use the same breathing and relaxing as one would do at the shooting range, and there is less likely to be problems with double stamp and uneven imprints- both of which are caused by stress. Yes I will admit this is a stressful moment, as one strike can make the difference between success and wasted hours of work.
 
The press is a good idea and would save more time than the way I did it which is self taught through mistakes and success.

Since I started knifemaking in the 1980's there was little on the subject of knifemaking.

I ordered my name stamp from Evers. And through trial and error here is my method.

Finish knife to only 220 grit and after all the holes are drilled and the blade is ready for HT then I stamp.

Heat the spot to be stamped to cherry red. Lay knife down on anvil. With the Evers stamp secured in vise grips place name end straight and level on the knife- this is very important since there is only once chance to strike it right.

Then give it one firm moderate blow, do not hold your breath, relax and strike. Use the same breathing and relaxing as one would do at the shooting range, and there is less likely to be problems with double stamp and uneven imprints- both of which are caused by stress. Yes I will admit this is a stressful moment, as one strike can make the difference between success and wasted hours of work.

That's basically the same way I have always done my stamping... Man this sure does seem like a much easier way !!!!

Thanks for the tip Karl!!
 
Just out of curiosity, I am wondering if you leave the vice grips on your name stamp?

I quickly found that it was just easier to leave a set of vicegrips attached to the stamp so that I wouldn't have to keep attaching it. Its become the permanent arrangement since the start
 
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