Native 5 Sprint s110v blade drive me crazy!!

S

stef142

Joined
Feb 5, 2015
Messages
154
Hello, this is the story: I bought a new Native 5 CF S110V two months ago. I used it with the original edge and then I need to give it a resharpening.
I used the Sharpmaker with diamond rods at 30° and I noticed that right bevel was becoming much more width then the other. The worst thing was that bevel started to becoming convex too and wasn't possible to obtain a really sharp edge!! I measured the angles on my Sharpmaker's rods and they are 14.5 and 15.5, not enough to create the problem (and is the same Sharpmaker I use for all my knives with good results). Then I rebeveled the blade for a lot of times (I have almost consumed 2-3 mm of the blade in order to solve the problem) but what I can only obtain is one perfect bevel and the other convex and with a rough edge. And the blade is not sharp!!!
Any opinion? Thanks!!
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Hmmm... not sure what is going on here. Have you tried using sharpie to see where you are hitting?
 
Give it a good look over from every angle. I don't have any advice based on the pics (use a Sharpie per Josh), but I'd verify the blade does not have a warp or twist before doing any more work.
 
The only thing I noticed is that the punge seems to be not well centered in the choil...
 
I sent an email to Spyderco's customer service but they told me I have to send the knife to Golden, and the shipment from Italy to Usa for me is about 70$ (I haven't asked for the shipment of replacement). This cost is not covered by warranty. I asked too if they can sell me a new blade (its cost may not be more than shipment...) but they can't.
 
You have to send it to a professional or put it on a belt sander to bring it back to razor sharp condition
 
I see no problem with the knife, maybe getting a diamond benchstone would be a better choice here. The thin rods of the SM don't do very well at making nice flat edges.

IMO, it looks like sharpening error.
 
The convexing is due to inconsistent angle control on that side, and that's also likely the cause of the edge not sharpening up to satisfaction. It can be tricky to train the hands to the same level of control from both sides, for both angle and use of pressure. Years ago, I had troubles with that for a long time, in using V-crock type sharpeners, and I got the same results, with convexing and rounded edges. I'm right-handed, so when holding the blade in my right hand, I had more trouble maintaining angle control on the right-facing bevel of the blade's edge; but it was easier when sharpening the left-facing bevel. It's even more tricky on high-wear steels like 110V, S30V, D2, etc, because the slower grinding of these steels leads to fatigue and loss of tight control during a long sharpening session.

The mismatched bevel widths may also be due, at least partly, to differences in held angle or control from each side. There could also be some issues with asymmetrical grind of the blade, from the factory. But even those blades can still be made sharp, so long as the held angle remains steady from both sides. Only the cosmetic issue of a wider bevel on one side would remain, if the held angle is steady.

Also, if grinding pressure is too heavy, it's possible the rods and/or the base itself might move somewhat during the sharpening stroke. That can also contribute to inconsistent control issues, with the angle. Even the hands themselves, in holding the blade, will tend to rock in angle a bit, if leaning a little too hard into the sharpening stroke. A light touch is better for both the edge (to prevent edge damage) and for maintaining control.


David
 
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Its a little hard to tell from those pictures but it looks like there is still some sharpie near the very edge which means you probably didnt spend enough time on the coarse stone. Reprofiling an S110V blade with a Sharpmaker is going to take forever even with the diamond rods. You might want to try and switch to the 40degree setting on the Sharpmaker.
 
It was only to see where the rod contacts the bevel. Now I'm going on with 30 degrees and I have to accept that one bevel is much more wider than the other. I know it's only an aesthetical problem but for an industrial knife that costs more than 200$...
 
stef142 said:
It was only to see where the rod contacts the bevel. Now I'm going on with 30 degrees and I have to accept that one bevel is much more wider than the other. I know it's only an aesthetical problem but for an industrial knife that costs more than 200$...
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No matter the cost, no matter the knife, a properly sharpened edge is your responsibility.

It may have not been sharpened to perfection at the factory but that was never the intent. Factory edges are meant to get the knife out the door and provide the customer something that is useable, period. Your bevel seems aymeteric, it's common, grind the smaller side until it equals out.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
The convexing is due to inconsistent angle control on that side, and that's also likely the cause of the edge not sharpening up to satisfaction. It can be tricky to train the hands to the same level of control from both sides, for both angle and use of pressure... I'm right-handed, so when holding the blade in my right hand, I had more trouble maintaining angle control on the right-facing bevel of the blade's edge; but it was easier when sharpening the left-facing bevel. It's even more tricky on high-wear steels like 110V, S30V, D2, etc, because the slower grinding of these steels leads to fatigue and loss of tight control during a long sharpening session.

The mismatched bevel widths may also be due, at least partly, to differences in held angle or control from each side. There could also be some issues with asymmetrical grind of the blade, from the factory. But even those blades can still be made sharp, so long as the held angle remains steady from both sides. Only the cosmetic issue of a wider bevel on one side would remain, if the held angle is steady.

Also, if grinding pressure is too heavy, it's possible the rods and/or the base itself might move somewhat during the sharpening stroke. That can also contribute to inconsistent control issues, with the angle. Even the hands themselves, in holding the blade, will tend to rock in angle a bit, if leaning a little too hard into the sharpening stroke. A light touch is better for both the edge (to prevent edge damage) and for maintaining control.

David
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I noticed what David mentioned about angle control problems on the "right-facing" bevel whereas I'm left handed and have had control problems on the "left" bevel face of the rod. What helped me greatly in the control issue, was that I started clamping the SM down to my deck which allowed me to use both hands on the knife which in turn gave me much more control, no matter which side, left or right rod I was using. It also helped with applying equal pressure and I found myself getting less fatigued. A win-win.
 
stef142 said:
It was only to see where the rod contacts the bevel. Now I'm going on with 30 degrees and I have to accept that one bevel is much more wider than the other. I know it's only an aesthetical problem but for an industrial knife that costs more than 200$...
Click to expand...

To pin down, once and for all, any issues about asymmetrical bevels and what's actually causing it, you might consider Jason's suggestion of a diamond bench stone. Combine that with a DMT Aligner clamp (can be purchased for $10-$15), which will eliminate the 'user error' possibility in angle control. Using the guide with an aggressive bench stone (maybe a Coarse or XC) will leave crisp & dead-flat bevels on each side, and any remaining differences in bevel widths will more likely be due to the blade's primary grind asymmetry, which probably will turn out not as bad as assumed. And once the good edge geometry is established with the guide on the bench stone, maintenance will become a LOT easier using the SM or any other tool appropriate to the steel.


David
 
stef142 said:
It was only to see where the rod contacts the bevel. Now I'm going on with 30 degrees and I have to accept that one bevel is much more wider than the other. I know it's only an aesthetical problem but for an industrial knife that costs more than 200$...
Click to expand...
It's simple to fix an uneven bevel. All you have to do is spend more time sharpening the side with the smaller bevel until it matches the other side. This will be much easier if you have an Xcoarse diamond benchstone but if you don't you can lay the Spyderco rods flat on the under side of the Sharpmaker and use it like a benchstone. We're the bevels even when the knife was new?
 
At the end I rebeveled at 30 degrees without taking care of bevels' width. This is the result: one bevel is 1.6 mm and the other 3.1 mm. 😳😳
I don't know if I can accept this...


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I don't know if we can say it anymore, grind the smaller side until it evens out. You can't fix asymetery by being symmetric.
 
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