Neck Knife Changes

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Oct 4, 2011
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I made this neck knife last year, but I'm looking to improve it for future ones. I will probably get rid of that part in the back with the lanyard hole, to make the grip more comfortable. Otherwise, the handle seems to work fairly well. I think this type of grind is also fairly thick, so I will probably go with a full flat grind with a plunge and taper instead (currently it is 1/8" stock with no tapers, and only the partial flat grind).


If I were to do a kydex sheath for it, does the knife require any structural revisions so the sheath can grab on and be secure?


S2OpK.jpg

gppYx.jpg



Thanks so much. Sincerely,


-Don Nguyen
 
Hey Don, good looking necker. Your question about the sheath is no. You will not need to make any changes to it. The kydex will grab the finger choil just fine to hold in place, should be a good snap transition in and out the sheath. Where you place your rivets matter a lot as well. Good luck Don
 
I know that angles are your style, but I feel that wood handles should be more organic in shape. That harsh angle on the bottm of the handle just ruins it to my eye. I think you can still mix some angles is with some flowing lines and not stray too far from your style.

Looks good otherwise.

-Xander
 
Thanks for the replies! Xander, I will have to think hard about those curves. It feels like getting a good balance of curve and angle is difficult, so I'll have to play around a bit. The newer knives won't have the sharp angle at the bottom of the handle at the very least.

What are your guys' thoughts on the current grind? As a partial flat grind for a narrow blade and 1/8" thickness, would it be too thick?
 
To me, I see you smoothing out the three facets that create the top line of the knife's handle, leaving the two on the blade. For the underside, you already have that nice choil, I think if you just recurved it a slight bit it will help smooth out that harsh angle at the bottom. This will leave plenty of angles in the shape of the blade and on the butt of the handle to still have the look you want.

Just my $0.02 on style.

-Xander
 
Hmmm i have to agree with the statement that the angles are less appealing with wood. I really like the angles both 2 and 3 dimensional, but the wood has some curvy grains that look like the get rudely interrupted by the sharp angles. if you were to make this out of micarta or G10 especially the layered variety I think it would be awesome.
 
To me, I see you smoothing out the three facets that create the top line of the knife's handle, leaving the two on the blade. For the underside, you already have that nice choil, I think if you just recurved it a slight bit it will help smooth out that harsh angle at the bottom. This will leave plenty of angles in the shape of the blade and on the butt of the handle to still have the look you want.

Just my $0.02 on style.

-Xander

I'm having a lot of trouble visualizing your suggestions, but I drew some lines to what I think you meant. I don't know what the recurve would be so I just guessed.

DKpLU.jpg


Hmmm i have to agree with the statement that the angles are less appealing with wood. I really like the angles both 2 and 3 dimensional, but the wood has some curvy grains that look like the get rudely interrupted by the sharp angles. if you were to make this out of micarta or G10 especially the layered variety I think it would be awesome.

That's a very interesting point. I will definite have some in micartas and G10s, as well as keeping some in burls/etc. I think a simple black handle would look very sleek.
 
Don, yep, thats just about exactly what I was trying to relay to you. Again, this is just my opinion as if I were ordering one from you. this is your knife, make it how you like it.

I also agree that with synthetic handle material, the angles look good. I just like to keep organic materials with organic shapes.


-Xander
 
I would also add that I prefer not to have a sharp angle in the front pin/bolt. Visually, it looks like a mistake.
 
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