I actualy thought I had a problem with the knife untill I seen this video, just couldnt keep it sharp. So I'm pretty happy now, got a sheath on the way from gavko. I love the knife and you really can not beat the price point, so a few bucks for a new sheath is not going to throw me off. But I can see where people might mistake it for a heat treat or metal problem.
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Necker sheath dulling demo by Virtuovice
- Thread starter slapper
- Start date
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- Jul 1, 2006
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I hear you. I love the knife as well. It has pretty much bumped all my other knives out of rotation. This was a knife that I didn't warm up to right away, but after I put some micarta on it and stripped it, it just feels more personal. Great knife and better value.
the best solution for this problem is to take some 1000 grit ( not 1500 or 800 but 1000 grit) sand paper and wrap it around a small rod, to glue the sand paper to the rod use silicone after you do that you should take your knife and store it in a secure place not to cut yourself....then take the sheath and try sanding all 4 corners of the sheath, then apply some oil on the sheath ( you should try regular kitchen oil)
then leave the sheath to dry.....it should take 2 hours aprox......since you have some time on your hand while this dryes....and also since it does not do absolutellly nothing to solve the dulling of the blade problem, take this time to get online and order your self a new sheath for your bkt because for the price you might as well accept this flaw LOL
then leave the sheath to dry.....it should take 2 hours aprox......since you have some time on your hand while this dryes....and also since it does not do absolutellly nothing to solve the dulling of the blade problem, take this time to get online and order your self a new sheath for your bkt because for the price you might as well accept this flaw LOL
How? Can you post a photo?
All I did was run the file of the leatherman down where the edge of the blade goes to keep it from contacting. You wouldn't be able to tell from a pic. Moose said it early in the thread, use sandpaper or whatever to open up the sheath just where the edge is to keep it from touching the blade when drawing or inserting. It's not a fast process, it'll probably take 30-60 minuets of sanding and inserting/drawing the knife to get there and you'll still need to be careful the keep the edge off the sheath when drawing and inserting.
Thanks, I'll try it.
Yep. Have this same issue with mine. I can deal with it. Even tho it wont cut paper after being in the sheath for a bit, it still functions fine. I have never had any inabilities to cut anything, other than shave hair or cut paper. Granted, I like my knives as razor sharp as they can possibly be, and it is annoying so I am looking for a replacement leather sheath.
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2011
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- 2,139
THIS!!
People are putting pressure on the knife the wrong way when they draw it. Do it like GK says and it wont. happen.
Besides....who keeps a stock sheath anyway? How's Godspeed and Skystorm supposed to feed their families?
To be fair, one can't always draw EXACTLY correctly. I would hazard a guess that if your out in the woods hiking it's no problem, but if you're using it heavily (ie on a farm or whatever) then that's just not practical.
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2008
- Messages
- 712
Not an issue for knife users. If you take the knife and put a razor edge on it and never use it - sure the sheath might knock the edge down a little. However, if you beat the snot out of it, baton stuff, sharpen it, beat on it some more, sharpen it again, skin some stuff, strike some fires, split some kindling, sharpen, beat, pound, cut, chop, etc... then the edge will not be so close to the sheath.
I have 2 - 11's and a 14. This is not a problem with my 3 necker knives. Or my 2 or 5.
If it bothers you, feel free to spend double the money on an Izula.
I have 2 - 11's and a 14. This is not a problem with my 3 necker knives. Or my 2 or 5.
If it bothers you, feel free to spend double the money on an Izula.
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2003
- Messages
- 19,851
this is also supposed to a be a non issue these days with the new sheaths that have no or less glass.
if someone with an old sheath STILL has this issue, yeah, how much are you using it vs taking it out to shave your arm hair?
most people have observed that after a year or two of use, even the old sheaths break in.
if someone with an old sheath STILL has this issue, yeah, how much are you using it vs taking it out to shave your arm hair?
most people have observed that after a year or two of use, even the old sheaths break in.I don't think anyone is having the same problem with a BK2. BK2 is an excellent value, and so is the BK11/14. Yes the neckers need a better sheath, but I don't think it's worth disregarding the whole brand.
I traded my gen 2 BK2 for a Leatherman Surge. Stopped using the 2 and started using an RC 6 because the plastic sheath of the ESEE does something amazing that the Becker does not-the ESEE sheath does not ruin the edge like the Becker sheath did. I cant for the life in me understand why Kabar uses imo a defective material to make sheaths and then tell their customers in so many words to suck it up.
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2003
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- 19,851
well, i can tell you
you paid zero for that sheath, resulting in an overall purchase of a knife with a protective functional option. you paid a large percentage MORE for the ESEE. "suck it up"
the new sheaths are much better if not perfect. KaBar actually listens, and sometimes i think as many as 3 times a year, makes adjustments... tweaks. fixes. do the old customers get benefit? perhaps not. new customers? yes.
*proper* technique in taking your knife out helps. don't drag it. the glass sheaths are STUPID STRONG, and need to break in. you can accelerate that with a hacksaw blade, or time.
if you are the type to put a atom splitting edge on a BK2, and then notice you can't shave with it after 6-12 bad deploys, well, uhm, you know? geez. stop messing with your knife while you watch zombie tv, and well, use it.
do you figure that if someone *used* their knife to gut a deer, split some wood, it might get dull that way too? or would you complain that it's not shaving sharp after a day of hard use.
yeah, i put a 2000 grit edge on a necker, have multiple generations of sheaths, dulled the knife a little, couldn't split C hairs, and well, still had "real world results"...
gah!
well, i can tell you
you paid zero for that sheath, resulting in an overall purchase of a knife with a protective functional option. you paid a large percentage MORE for the ESEE. "suck it up"
the new sheaths are much better if not perfect. KaBar actually listens, and sometimes i think as many as 3 times a year, makes adjustments... tweaks. fixes. do the old customers get benefit? perhaps not. new customers? yes.
*proper* technique in taking your knife out helps. don't drag it. the glass sheaths are STUPID STRONG, and need to break in. you can accelerate that with a hacksaw blade, or time.
if you are the type to put a atom splitting edge on a BK2, and then notice you can't shave with it after 6-12 bad deploys, well, uhm, you know? geez. stop messing with your knife while you watch zombie tv, and well, use it.
do you figure that if someone *used* their knife to gut a deer, split some wood, it might get dull that way too? or would you complain that it's not shaving sharp after a day of hard use.
yeah, i put a 2000 grit edge on a necker, have multiple generations of sheaths, dulled the knife a little, couldn't split C hairs, and well, still had "real world results"...
gah!
True, the 6 was more expensive. But for a lifetime knife, that price tag is smaller and smaller the further away from the purchase date I got.
My dilemma now is that I have an eskabar which is a kick ass knife, but the sheath is killing the edge for me. It is crazy, I use it to split wood and make feather sticks, or just to carve...and I can wood work with it for hours and the edge retention is excellent, but a few times in and out of a sheath, and it is duller than when I actually use it. I think that it is a shame that I have to shave more and more metal away from the knife to get the blade to a point where it eventually wont touch the edge. It shortens the life of the knife. I also am one that does not want to pay as much for a sheath as what I paid for the knife.
Maybe Kabar can call Glock. While the Glock Field Knife comes dull as hell, 5 bucks to a professional sharpener will turn it into a light saber-and the sheath does not dull the edge. And that knife is cheaper than a cup of coffee (sarcasm here...but it is cheap as hell), but they can figure out how to make an injection molded sheath that does not dull the edge...and they have been doing it since '78 apparently.
Kabar makes great knives. You should see how frighteningly sharp my USMC is (I bought a leather sheath for it, it came with the fiberglass one that it came with, kept it nice and dull). You won't find a dull knife in my house-except my Eskabar, and I promise it was sharp before I sheathed it
I just wished that when it came to the plastic they use, well I wish that it was not detrimental to the blade. It really should not be an issue, and I cant for the life in me understand why it is.
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- Feb 27, 2011
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- 1,558
Becker knives are "a lifetime knife" as well. 10 seconds with a file works wonders, so does a Combat Master or any of the fine kydex and leather sheath offerings sold by bladeforums craftspeople. I agree with you, it sucked having the blade get dull, but in all honesty you cannot complain about a 10 second fix. Speak with the fine people at Kabar and explain the situation, their service/support sets the bar awfully high. As for the "I just wished that when it came to the plastic they use, well I wish that it was not detrimental to the blade.", they listened to you and everyone else bringing the point up, their newer sheaths produced do not have the dulling issue.
True, the 6 was more expensive. But for a lifetime knife, that price tag is smaller and smaller the further away from the purchase date I got.
My dilemma now is that I have an eskabar which is a kick ass knife, but the sheath is killing the edge for me. It is crazy, I use it to split wood and make feather sticks, or just to carve...and I can wood work with it for hours and the edge retention is excellent, but a few times in and out of a sheath, and it is duller than when I actually use it. I think that it is a shame that I have to shave more and more metal away from the knife to get the blade to a point where it eventually wont touch the edge. It shortens the life of the knife. I also am one that does not want to pay as much for a sheath as what I paid for the knife.
Maybe Kabar can call Glock. While the Glock Field Knife comes dull as hell, 5 bucks to a professional sharpener will turn it into a light saber-and the sheath does not dull the edge. And that knife is cheaper than a cup of coffee (sarcasm here...but it is cheap as hell), but they can figure out how to make an injection molded sheath that does not dull the edge...and they have been doing it since '78 apparently.
Kabar makes great knives. You should see how frighteningly sharp my USMC is (I bought a leather sheath for it, it came with the fiberglass one that it came with, kept it nice and dull). You won't find a dull knife in my house-except my Eskabar, and I promise it was sharp before I sheathed it
Actually they still do...Picked up a new lazer etched BK-11 and still had the problem...Do I care though? Nope, have plenty of kydex myself to make dozens of new sheaths.
Anyway, if you use the knife, sheath it, use it, sheath it, come home clean it up and sharpen it you probably wont notice it. Only if you pull the knife out repeatedly everyday without using it will you probably find the sheath an issue.