Need a better way to transfer patterns to steel

[Brian.Evans]

So while my vfd is getting fixed I have time to work on making some patterns and such. I used a steel pattern to scribe a line onto the steel stock. I used layout fluid, then scrubbed into it. However, when I'm grinding, the layout fluid burns off and/or changes from blue to yellow brown burnt color and obscures the scribe line. Am I doing something wrong? It's getting frustrating, I ruined $20 worth of steel today.

 

[AVigil]

Dunk that blade before it changes color to much

You are hogging it off to fast and it blows away that dyechem.

 

[Busto]

What Adam Said ^^^^....When I scribe and cut out my blank I have 1/16" maybe left to grind and never had to hog it off to the point it got that hot!!!

Slow down dunk and try leaving less to grind off

Mike

 

[AVigil]

Brian,

What grit are you using to profile? I have experienced what you are saying. I use a 36 grit to profile and try to let the belt do the work without to much pressure and dunk when needed to preserve the scribe line.

If I push hard it will just fry that sucker

 

[Adam Buttry]

1. Use a bandsaw to remove the bulk of the waste
2. Use a fresh, quality ceramic belt ( I like 36 grit 3M Cubitron ll 984F's for profiling)
3. Use the contact wheel to help keep heat to a minimum
4. Use a high belt speed with moderate pressure to let the abrasive do the work
5. Dunk frequently to avoid heat build-up

I've read where some don't bother worrying about heat build up pre HT. Personally, I try to avoid it.

 

[Brian.Evans]

I've been using a 60 grit. I don't have a contact wheel. Wish I had the money. Maybe in the next year or so I can get one. Anyone have one sitting around they don't use? Lol

It looks like I should grab some 36 grit belts soon, huh?

Stupid inexperience. I hate learning curves.

 

[logem]

You'll be fine without a contact wheel or 36 grit belts (although 36 grit helps). Just heed the advice about using not getting to close to the scribed line while doing the heavy hogging. At that point, slow down and dunk more often when approaching the scribed profile. Even then, you should be able to get it profiled relatively quickly.

Mike L.

 

[John Katt]

I just bought some 24 grit blaze belts and they are stupid fast at removing stock, don't know how I lived without them up till now ;0)

 

[TLR]

I use a 36 grit disk on my 12" disc grinder to hog off much of what I don't get with the bandsaw. I use a 36 grit belt for the inside curves. I always leave a bit of extra and then move up to a 60 grit belt. The disc saves on belts and on wear to my platen. I already had it and I can get several blanks done with the same disc.

The lower grit will really help to keep that heat down if that discoloration is a problem. personally when I'm hogging and profiling my pattern is just that a basic template.

I don't worry about getting it perfectly the same as the pattern. It is very very close but I like letting my hands and eyes work with the steel rather then being obsessed with duplication. It helps keep it fun for me and these are custom knives after all

 

[JMJones]

After I have the first template, I just lay it on the forging or barstock and spray paint over it with high temp grill paint. It is fast and can be redone if somehow the paint flakes off or something.