Need a good rust preventor

WD-40 not a lubricant or protectant?

I don't understand what you mean... even with high viscosity and penetrant qualities, it's done both jobs for many generations... It may not be as effective as Eezox or Sentry Solutions, but it does the job...

In many foreign countries, you can't buy, beg or steal Break-free or Militec... 3 in 1, and WD-40 suffices for both gunsteel and cold steel.

I collect lubricants (the non-sexual types) and I notice that the ones that gum up or ones that have a low viscosity tend to offer the best long term protection... however, you begin to use the objects that are coated and the bets are off... you've added a whole new factor into the equation...

honestly, the best rust preventor... Rustoleum Enamel Paint.
 
Well, I'm back from Camp Meeting. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I didn't cut anything with the SnG, and the Alpha Hunter got dropped once, while it was in the case, however. I stropped the Hunter when we got back, and wiped the dust down from everything. I used a can of compressed air to blow the dust out of the Hunter's sheath.

What I meant about abuse is that good, reasonable care is all that is really needed. My dad had one pocket knife and one ka-bar style knock-off his whole life. This was 1930's steel, and neither rusted; he was an engineer, and none of his shop tools rusted, either.

For years I used WD-40 on guns, both for cleaning and as a cosmetic finish protector. I used a grease-like product called 'Rig' for guns in long storage. I still use Pledge on gun stocks. (You spray the Pledge on the rag, and then wipe the stock with the rag.)

Over the years, I've switched over to stainless, when it was available. The barrel on my AR-15 is stainless; 99% of my knives are stainless, except those few Opinels and my one Chang custom. For a woods gun, I've switched over to a Marlin Guide Gun.

I just try to use common sense, and I try to enjoy these great toys without worrying.
 
Although I haven't tried Eeox, and I will, I find that SHEATH made by Birchwood Casey is excellent as a rust preventative. It's the best one of all the gun care/rust preventative products that I've tried. I usually test the various products before I use them by stripping 16 penny nails of the protective coating, wipe them with the particular product, and spray with a salt spray solution for a couple of days. Sheath has been the best so far. CLP, although it works ok, is not the best for rust prevention, Sheath beats it by a fair margin.

Now I gotta get some of the Eezox to try out.....
 
drjones,

I know that WD-40 is not a very good lubricant, but it prevents rust just fine IMO. And as I already mentioned, I had a blade wiped with Tuf-Cloth rust on me. I never experienced something like that with WD-40.
 
Straight motor oil works if you dont mind the smell...

The cool thing about it is that if you have any on it, its going to try an keep the air/moisture off!

WD40 is a great rust preventor... I have a motor apart, been apart for the past 6 months, spray it down once every 2-3 weeks. There is NO rust... an its missing all paint.

PB blaster for bustin bolts, WD40 for wrenches, sockets, and bare metal. Marvel mystery oil for the air tools! The motor cycle guys use it on the chains on the bikes... so I wonder if it would work as a lube on a knife... may scoot out to wally world today an try it out!

:cool:
 
I have tried Tuff-Cloth, WD-40 and another oil I don't remember the brand name (let's call it noname). The "noname" was the worst, I had a display only knife rust. Tuff Cloth and WD-40 are pretty good. Now I use Ballistol and it is great, definitely the best I tried so far. It is harmless too, so it is safe to use your knife for food preparation. On my EDC knives I reapply after use or washing.
 
Originally posted by Hotrod
Straight motor oil works if you dont mind the smell...
Click to expand...
Back when SKS's were being sold for about 50 bucks, my buddy and I bought one each... we considered them too cheap to use any quality gun oil on them so we used leftover motor oil... A good synthetic motor oil seems to work better than many other "high quality" gun oils.
 
WD-40 was designed to be a temporary lubricant. Usually used to break free locked bolts and nuts from its rusted condition. It strips away ferrous oxides, gum, grease and other foreign material. It replaces itself unto whatever was on the part before. However, it is volatile and will not stay long. Therefore, the metal portion will eventually be exposed to moisture and oxygen which will lead to corrosion. Penetrating oils were not designed for long term lubrication. You can use it to strip away dirt but I would suggest to apply a better lubricant/oil.
 
If you are using WD40 for its intended purpose... breaking bolts... you really really need to try PB blaster. I've had it climb up shocks to get into the mounts.

It'll climb up a wall. Stuff is amazing! :cool:
 
I have been using CLP on all of my guns for years now, its great stuff and I dont have one spot of rust on any of my guns. I use Break Free CLP.
 
I use a Tuff-Cloth and when it drys out, I saturate it with Break Free and use it forever and a day.:)
 
For that matter, all tuff-cloth is... is one of them eyeglass polishing cloths they give away at those eyeglass place soaked in tuff-glide. You take one of those polishing cloths (they give them away free), soak it in the lube of your choice, and store it in a film canister and you're all set.
 
You guys got me thinking yesterday about WD-40 so I put together a quick test. I took 3 nails, two of which I wire brushed off the coating. #1 is a control, #2 was wiped with WD-40, #3 is just the standard nail. BTW nails make great test media. The nails were sprayed with a 5% salt solution and put into a 90F/90% RH chamber for 24 hours. I've done this before and W-40 works good for 24 hours but beyond that products like Shealth provide longer protection. Anyone what to send me some Eezoks for free I'll be happy to do some long term testing! :D
Here are the LIMITED results:
fbe732cc.jpg
 
Auto parts store/wall mart

It comes in a can with a bunch of stuff about it written all over yellow/orange cap

Ask for it and they will know (parts store that is) :D
 
Thanks Hotrod!! I will be trying it very soon. I have found Ballistol to be the best lube on the market for doing most everything and I've tried a bunch over the years. Good thread guys!
 
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