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- Apr 12, 2009
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- 13,535
Now dont hold me to this but from the reading I did back when I was going to get the lansky for my son is that the holder can scratch blades and loosen up. Also the stone will eventually wear. So I chose DMT.
The holder (clamp) won't scratch the blade by itself. It's too soft a metal for that (aluminum alloy). The abrasive particles coming off the stones will scratch, if they get between the clamp and the blade, which is true of any clamped system (Lansky, Gatco, DMT, WEPS, etc.). It's easy to minimize or eliminate that aspect, by making sure the clamp and blade are clean before setting up. Taping the blade is another easy way to protect it.
The Lansky clamp is no different than any of the others, regarding whether it loosens up or not. With any of them, properly clamping everything down is key. If not clamped properly, any and all of them will slip. Make sure to get flush contact between the clamp and the blade's sides. Using masking or painter's tape or other means between the clamp and blade can help keep them from slipping. My favorite means for this is to use some medium/fine wet/dry sandpaper wrapped over the blade with the abrasive side to the clamp (obviously to avoid scratching the blade). The paper backing of the sandpaper works surprisingly well to grip the blade, even when wet. Sometimes masking or painter's tape will come loose, or slip, if it's wet.
The 'regular' (non-diamond, non-ceramic) Lansky hones can wear down, especially if used on some more abrasion-resitant steels (I dished two of mine on an S30V blade re-profile). For heavy jobs like that, I usually recommend getting a supplemental coarse/xc diamond hone for re-bevelling, after which the standard hones can finish refining/polishing the new bevel.
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