need a good utility knife for art school

I cut a LOT of mats in photography school. I had a mat cutter -- it was kind of the Edge Pro of cutting mats in that it held the blade at a precise angle so the mats would be neatly beveled. I think it was $20-25 back in the late 70s. It was far superior to using an Exacto or Olfa.
 
zdri said:
RISD seems like a great school, the only negative reviews I get are from people who have never been there and are probably bitter about being rejected.
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You'll learn a lot about critiques and rejection and to not be defensive of either. Art is hard. I wouldn't dismiss negative thoughts of RISD as outright jealousy.
 
You need to talk to some of the students...wander around the studios...see what people are using. Trust me...whatever you get...you'll change your mind eventually anyway...:D



Art school ROCKS!!

I wouldn't trade it for anything. Expensive? Oh yeah....$15k/yr for me...(~10 yrs ago)

But worth every penny. Only those who go...know. ;)



You're going to have a great time. :thumbup:
 
Daniel Koster said:
You need to talk to some of the students...wander around the studios...see what people are using. Trust me...whatever you get...you'll change your mind eventually anyway...:D



Art school ROCKS!!

I wouldn't trade it for anything. Expensive? Oh yeah....$15k/yr for me...(~10 yrs ago)

But worth every penny. Only those who go...know. ;)



You're going to have a great time. :thumbup:
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yea that! I really miss those days.

Enjoy it!
 
Yup, that's the mat cutter alright.
Not to be confused with a mat (or matte) knife.

I don't understand why anyone would say not to buy an Olfa mat knife with snap off blades...like the one pictured here.
http://www.dickblick.com/zz574/26/
Maybe its a misunderstanding of the terminology...but these are the mainstay of every studio that I've worked in.
You'll die cutting 100 sheets of foamcore using a #11 X-Acto.
Same with matte board.
For small precise cuts the #11 is hard to beat.

Good advice about getting the hundred pack of blades.
Do the same for the big knife.
Dull blades are dangerous.

Also buy a quality steel straight edge/ruler to cut with.
Aluminum will catch your blade & once it is up on the ruler it's a short skate into your fingers. Had 2 people get cut yesterday, and they are experienced vets. Both made the mistake of cutting with the aluminum ruler that was left on the cutting table.
Cutting with plastic triangles is even worse...not that I don't do it...sometimes you have to, but it's like fooling with a rattlesnake :D
 
zdri said:
The rules say I can't have a knife that isn't designed for artistic purposes. Which is pretty open to interpretation. But current students say it's a good idea to bring a good utility knife and a cutting board.
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My father remembers the days he'd take a .22LR rifle to school so he could take it with him on his walks home and perhaps bag a squirrel or two with it. And I recall taking pocket knives to school without issue.

Now you draw a picture of a gun or knife, and you're not only suspended, but you have to undergo counseling.

Anyway, points on knives weren't exactly made for pinning Luca Brasi's hand to the counter so your buddy could strangle him from behind. They were made to do detail work. A point can extract a tiny amount of paint or it can add add "eyes" to a carved image.

Do you want a slip joint knife or a small locking knife? Can it have more than one blade? Also, have you considered one of those Leatherman tools that come with a blade and other pull-outs?
 
diversionmary said:
You'll learn a lot about critiques and rejection and to not be defensive of either. Art is hard. I wouldn't dismiss negative thoughts of RISD as outright jealousy.
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Every person I've met who dislikes RISD says the kids are pretentious, or they are rich. They aren't pretentious. Some are rich, but so what?

Ebbtide said:
Also buy a quality steel straight edge/ruler to cut with.
Aluminum will catch your blade & once it is up on the ruler it's a short skate into your fingers. Had 2 people get cut yesterday, and they are experienced vets. Both made the mistake of cutting with the aluminum ruler that was left on the cutting table.
Cutting with plastic triangles is even worse...not that I don't do it...sometimes you have to, but it's like fooling with a rattlesnake :D
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I just bought an aluminum ruler... I could take it back though.
Confederate said:
My father remembers the days he'd take a .22LR rifle to school so he could take it with him on his walks home and perhaps bag a squirrel or two with it. And I recall taking pocket knives to school without issue.

Now you draw a picture of a gun or knife, and you're not only suspended, but you have to undergo counseling.

Anyway, points on knives weren't exactly made for pinning Luca Brasi's hand to the counter so your buddy could strangle him from behind. They were made to do detail work. A point can extract a tiny amount of paint or it can add add "eyes" to a carved image.

Do you want a slip joint knife or a small locking knife? Can it have more than one blade? Also, have you considered one of those Leatherman tools that come with a blade and other pull-outs?
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Yeah, the attitude people have about "violence" is ridiculous. The posts in this topic remind me that I wanted to buy an opinel a few months ago, but my mom thought that any knife with a lock was a weapon. I can buy anything I want now though.

I think I've already figured out what knife I need, a utility knife should be good enough.
 
zdri said:
I just bought an aluminum ruler... I could take it back though.
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It would be a good idea :D
Another safety tip, make sure the table, under the piece you are cutting, is clean. A staple, paper clip or another scrap of board is enough to get the blade to jump up on the ruler.
One of the worst wrecks I've seen was when a very, very experienced guy was in a hurry and didn't see the paper clip on the table.

Art school...the biggest thing you'll learn is how to accept criticism ;) :D
Enjoy every moment!
 
The knife i described to you earlier in this post is a utility knife. A very cool, auto opening, compact folder that fits perfectly in the pocket.
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I know you're not going to believe this, but the Myerco auto opener is a fantastic knife. When it finally breaks, it's so inexpensive just buy a new one. Go to Knifecenter.com

Meyerco Razor Folding Assisted Opener Box Cutter Composition Handle
Part Number: MEY1500
Manufacturer: Meyerco
Retail Price: $25.00
You Pay: $14.95

Knife experts are always complaining about the spring, but I've had mine for 5 years without a problem. It actually feels like a much more expensive knife, it's always sharp because of the replaceable blades and........IT LOOKS VERY COOL AND COMES IN BLACK .
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I'm a BFA/MFA RISD grad. This knife would be perfect for you. Also, it's very unobtrusive.
 
The Knife I was referring to was the Blackie Collins version. I've noticed a very cheap, plastic looking Myerco knife that is not what I was referring to. The knife I have is very substantial, which is why the price of around $15.00 shocked me so. I just saw what I think is my knife on the Knifecenter.com website.

Meyerco Razor Folding Assisted Opener Box Cutter Composition Handle
Part Number: MEY1500
Manufacturer: Meyerco
Retail Price: $25.00
You Pay: $14.95

The Sheffield knife is nice. this Myerco is almost identical with the exception of the fantastic composite handle. It truly feels like a $50.00 knife. I'm certain if they put a better spring in it they could have charged as much.
 
I'd go for the Victorinox 108mm Solo.

It's sheeple friendly, 3" blade, non-locking, a great kitchen knife, cheap to buy, you can get it razor sharp, and is top notch in the quality department.

f4b721e3.jpg
 
I MAY HAVE FOUND THE KNIFE FOR YOU. The latest Blade magazine just reviewed various knives from this year's Blade Show. This one really struck my eye with regards to your needs.

Make/Model: Mantis T5
Blade Material: BG-42 Stainless
Length/Style: 2.75" Drop Point
Handle Material: Stainless w/ Anodized Aluminum Fittings
Closed Length: 4.5"
Description: Premium steel is used in this stylish and sinister folder from Mantis Knives. From the ridged thumb ramp to the oversized lanyard hold, this knife possesses the feel and utility daily knife users demand. Form following function, perfectly.
Dantes Model #: MAT5
Dantes Price: $36.95

The design was inspired from open-wheeled race car driving. It looks beautiful, light, sharp/thin blade and compact. The only thing I don't see is a pocket clip. You can find this knife for sale at:

http://www.dantesknife.com/Mantis Knives.htm
 
Ebbtide said:
Yup, that's the mat cutter alright.
Not to be confused with a mat (or matte) knife.
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Yup, what I linked to is a mat cutter. What you identified is not a "mat knife," but a "utility knife" with break-off blades (I refer you to the link in your post). I identified a specialized tool for the task of cutting mats. You bring up a general tool that may be used to cut mats, after a fashion.

Having used both, I also understand that the "mat cutter" is by far the better tool for the job of cutting mats.

The mat cutter creates a perfect bevel (the utility knife doesn't create a bevel at all), which looks much more professional, and the flat chromed flat edge of the cutter rides along the ruler much more smoothly than a knife blade.

Sure, get an Olfa for cutting canvas or whatever. But for cutting mats get a mat cutter. For the same reason, get a kitchen knife to use in the kitchen. Choose the right tool for the job. Getting all 3 isn't going to break the bank, even for a college student on a tight budget.
 
Terminology is a funny thing.
:D
Every art studio that I worked in has mat knives & mat cutters.
Mat cutters are for cutting photo/frame mats as you described.
Did I mention that I hate cutting mats?
The only thing worse than cutting mats is cutting double mats with a 1/8" difference in size. Any little mistake shows.
Anyway, you are correct about the mat knife being a snap off utility knife/blade.
Again it is called what it is called.
Used in my world for cutting everything other than beveled edge photo/frame mat boards.
We mount prints on mat board and either cut them flush to the edge of the print or leave a border around them. Just cutting straight edges. Not beveled edge photo mats.
The last time I counted we had 12 different kinds of board in the studio, from 1/2" thick foamcore to 2 ply railroad board (otherwise known as posterboard or oaktag) with all the stops in between.
It isn't uncommon to mount a houndred hp prints (plots) on a hundred sheets of 3/16" foam core board and trim all four sides.
400 cuts for one meeting. A really big meeting like the one we're working on for the last week will be a couple hundred boards from 15x20" all the way up to 48x96"
Sometimes it isn't foam core board but double black illustration board.
Or 14 ply white.
My point is, that in any art studio that I've ever worked in it is referred to as a mat knife.
And yes you are correct, it is a snap off utility blade...but we call it a mat knife :D
I only stress the point in case you walk into an ad agency studio and need to cut something...wouldn't want you to confuse the poor artists :D
 
DoctaD said:
Get something with a Wharncliff blade, as it would be better for following a straight edge, and cutting mats, canvas, etc. The Boker Wharcom:
http://www.knifeworks.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=8369
looks like it might just be the ticket. Inexpensive, small, but very functional.

Dean
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I second that.
I am using it all the time to cut watercolor paper, which is quite thick.
It cuts well with a metal edged rule for precise cuts.
Good clip.
Razor sharp.

It also, due to it squareish shape, does not scan as a knife being carried.
And less than 2".
 
Ebbtide said:
Terminology is a funny thing.
:D Just cutting straight edges. Not beveled edge photo mats.
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The art world is a funny thing. It's more than just New York ad agencies. :D And beveled mats, they aren't just for photographs.

I bought an etching just this weekend. It was framed with . . . ta da . . . a beveled mat using archival board. Not a buy-in- the-drug store mat, but one that was cut with a mat cutter :eek: to the non-standard size of the printed image. My wife has works in various mixed media. The pieces that have been in exhibits are in beveled mats. A good friend of mine is also a print maker. When she displays her work, its the same. Whenever fellow strudents, faculty, and I sent a case of work off to be included in a show, it was always with beveled archival mats. This is what I see most often with both paper artwork and photographs. It seems to be the gold standard for non-disposible works of art.

I can understand an ad agency might be different. :D For that matter, art schools undoubtedly vary in what they teach and require. For example, in the BFA photography program I was in, beveled archival mats were required after the entry-level course. YMMV.
 
Another vote for a dedicated kitchen knife...when you're a tired, hungry student, a nice, big fixed blade with a curved edge is what you want waiting for you at home. The curved edge is critical for food prep against a cutting board, and fixed blades are much easier to clean. At 2 am, after a hard day of work, cleaning tomato goo out of a folding knife is not what I'd want to deal with.

I used a Calphalon 6" utility kitchen knife throughout school. It cost about $30. 5 years later, it still makes my time in the kitchen a joy. Dull, serrated cheapie kitchen knives are dangerous and fatiguing to use. Later, when you have a real income, you can upgrade to a full-cloth chef's knife, and you won't regret that either.

Good luck in art school...work hard and have fun!
 
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