I'm looking for a knife to fit the criteria below for a class I have to attend plus personal use in the woods. I was looking to spend somewhere between $50-75(I know I'm cheap). Anyways I was looking at either CS Master Hunter or Fallkniven F1 would either of these knives fit the bill. Any other knife suggestions?
Thanks,
Derek
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Pick a knife whose weight feels good and that will not tire you out.
Bigger is not better (unless you plan to use it like and axe!)
If feasible for you, avoid lock backs. Techniques for splitting wood
with your knife will destroy a lock back. Avoid hollow handle survival
knives. Navy SEALS that have gone through said they were useless. They break
too easily under heavy use. Instead, your best bet is a full tang knife,
(a knife where there is just one solid piece of steel from tip to butt.
Even reputed heavy duty knives like the USMC K-Bar knives have design problems
in this regard. They, and others have an attached butt-cap that provides
a nice hammer like surface. Unfortunately, This weakens the knife.
I have personally busted one so I know this is true. Stick to the
full-tang-no-frills designs and it will last a lifetime.
Avoid fighting knives with fancy guards and double-edged blades. For
fine carving you will want to press on the spine of the blade. This is
awkward if you have to maneuver around a hilt, and impossible if there are
saw-teeth or a sharpened edge on the spine. A simple finger guard is
useful near the sharpened edge to help you orient the knife in the dark
and to prevent injuries.
Choose a knife with a smooth handle. Antler is pretty, but after several
hours of use it will eat your hand. Knurling and textures on the handle
will do the same thing. Smooth handles are better. Micarta is nice
because it requires no maintenance. A wood handle will eventually cause
problems if not properly maintained.
To recap:
Choose a smooth handled knife of comfortable weight that is a single
piece of steel from tip to butt. There should be no hilt protruding off
the back of the knife but a finger guard is OK.
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Thanks,
Derek
------------
Pick a knife whose weight feels good and that will not tire you out.
Bigger is not better (unless you plan to use it like and axe!)
If feasible for you, avoid lock backs. Techniques for splitting wood
with your knife will destroy a lock back. Avoid hollow handle survival
knives. Navy SEALS that have gone through said they were useless. They break
too easily under heavy use. Instead, your best bet is a full tang knife,
(a knife where there is just one solid piece of steel from tip to butt.
Even reputed heavy duty knives like the USMC K-Bar knives have design problems
in this regard. They, and others have an attached butt-cap that provides
a nice hammer like surface. Unfortunately, This weakens the knife.
I have personally busted one so I know this is true. Stick to the
full-tang-no-frills designs and it will last a lifetime.
Avoid fighting knives with fancy guards and double-edged blades. For
fine carving you will want to press on the spine of the blade. This is
awkward if you have to maneuver around a hilt, and impossible if there are
saw-teeth or a sharpened edge on the spine. A simple finger guard is
useful near the sharpened edge to help you orient the knife in the dark
and to prevent injuries.
Choose a knife with a smooth handle. Antler is pretty, but after several
hours of use it will eat your hand. Knurling and textures on the handle
will do the same thing. Smooth handles are better. Micarta is nice
because it requires no maintenance. A wood handle will eventually cause
problems if not properly maintained.
To recap:
Choose a smooth handled knife of comfortable weight that is a single
piece of steel from tip to butt. There should be no hilt protruding off
the back of the knife but a finger guard is OK.
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