Need a New Flashlight!

Yup, that's the one. The R5 LED is an XP-G. It'll throw a beam better than an XM-L which is really best for a light for illuminating a small area like a room or for a much larger light with a fatter reflector to maximize it's throw. Different LEDs for different purposes. The reason I initially recommend a TIR Surefire is that the TIR lens they use also maximizes throw and it's their patent so other lights won't have it. But it's expensive, so an Olight is an EXCELLENT option for something less pricey.
 
Nick15 said:
I took a look at the Malkoff's and I like them, but your saying that I would have to buy Malkoff's drop-in parts to make it equivalent to say the 6PX? What would it be like w/o the drop-ins? Their site doesn't have much info, so I don't know much about them. I really would prefer to just buy a flashlight that's ready to go rather then have to buy things for it.

Also, when I said I want durable, I don't mean I need a bomb proof flashlight. I'm not a soldier deploying in Iraq or some place like that where my flashlight might go through extremely harsh conditions. I just want a flashlight that will serve me well and not crap out on me like my Fenix when I need it on a 4-wheeling trip or something. It just needs to stand up to everyday things like drops and the occasional ride in my ATV's cargo bag.

Anyways, back to the Surefire 6PX Pro, why would you pass on it? I don't see any reason why it would be any less durable then any of the other Surefires....and I really don'y want to go over the price of $100 bucks on a Surefire, Malkoff, or any other light....For what I do, I just don't see a need for a $150 flashlight when my Fenix (when it worked) did everything I needed it to do for 60 bucks.
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all flashlights, can and will stop working at some time. some are designed to handle more abuse.... the most common problems are the mechanical switch. the switch on the 6PLed, C2Led and similar models use a much more reliable switch, than the more commonly used clicky switch.

ive owned a olight M20 R2. this was a few years ago.... i had sold the light to a friend. the switch stopped working after a few months... i tried getting him a new switch, but didnt get any help from olight, and nobody sells spare switches....
my lesson?.... buy lights where spare parts are available, or have a good manufacturers warranty.

the 6PX is a good light, the only problem ive heard of, is that it switches modes too easily with bumps or drops.
i would much rather get the 6PX over the M20S.

if you want something bright and cheap, while still pretty good quality.... Solarforce lights are good. these are better than the typical surefire clones. but at the fraction of the price, with plenty of available option parts, such as switches, tailcaps, bezels etc.... the solarforce L2T, and L2P are a couple of their best models.
these are similar to the Malkoff MD2, and surefire 6P, C2, Z2.... where these use a drop-in module. there are many drop-in module production makers, as well as custom.
surefire designed these for quick and easy field maintenance... the light can be completly taken apart quickly and easily.... and because the models such as the 6P has been around so long, there are many custom makers, option parts accessories, etc etc. without a doubt the most customizable format.
 
nebo redline.. it is truly amazing for the price it can shine 120 yard easy with the small focus beam... no lanyard hole but that can be fixed.. 30ish bucks cant go wrong!!
 
Surefires puts R&D into their lights that's why they have a lower defect rate and higher durability. You may not need it to survive a explosion but it can and whatever you throw at it.

There is always the "latest and greatest" hitting the market but some things are proven and work. The 6P is one of them and the malkoff drop-in is the other. Actual lumen output, beam quality, runtime, heatsinking, and supreme build quality are just a few things that make Malkoff products cream of the crop. Combine that with the tank like body of a surefire 6P and its rare or darn near a complete freak of nature that your light doesn't work when needed.

I have carried a surefire for many years, I have tried others, but its always back to the surefires when they let me down.
 
proud2deviate said:
Try cleaning the contacts on the Fenix. Scrub off the top threads (the ones the head screws onto,) with a stiff toothbrush, and maybe hit the exposed metal at the top with some fine sandpaper (400 grit or higher.) Inside the head, there are two metal contact points, one in the center, and one around the outer rim of the board. Hit those with a Q-Tip, and maybe a little buffing compound if you want to be really thorough. Repeat cleaning processes with any exposed metal on the tail end of the tube, and inside the switch cap.

That might help. Anytime I've had trouble with a Fenix (not often,) cleaning the contacts has brought it back to good. I hope it helps in your situation:)
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I cleaned my LD20 this morning and threw some new batteries in it and so far it has made a big difference. I guess I'll just have to use it for a little while and see how it works. Thanks!!!!!!!!
 
Have any of you guys checked out the Nebo flashlights?
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I have a Nebo Blueline and its a fine flashlight for the cost. I think I paid 30 bucks. It is aircraft aluminum grade body with defensive ridges like most of the "high grade" models. Nice pocket clip, two modes ( on and disorientating flash mode) with a twisting front end for narrow focus to wide angle. Uses one AA battery. LED based. Also has a magnetized end with glow in the dark rubberized button.
 
Nick15 said:
I cleaned my LD20 this morning and threw some new batteries in it and so far it has made a big difference. I guess I'll just have to use it for a little while and see how it works. Thanks!!!!!!!!
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Cool:thumbup: Happy to help (and glad it worked!)
 
Streamlight pt1aa if you want 1 cell, pt2aa for 2 cell. Modes are high, strobe, and low, in that order. Runs off of AA cells, very reliable, and under $100 even if you get both. If you want cr123, pt1l and pt2l are the same lights, but run off cr123 batteries, and are a few dollars more expensive. I edc the pt1aa, great light.
www.streamlight.com
PS- I am not on the streamlight payroll. :D
If that ld20 ever fails on you again, try one of these.
 
Nick15 said:
I cleaned my LD20 this morning and threw some new batteries in it and so far it has made a big difference. I guess I'll just have to use it for a little while and see how it works. Thanks!!!!!!!!
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Nick, I had a similar problem with another brand and did the same cleaning with great results. I also found out there is a specific kind of "lube" for the threads (sorry, I don't remember the specific type) but it helps with smooth operation and helps it conduct better.

Any experts here remind me of the type of lube?

Marl
 
My Fenix PD20, has been going strong for over 2 years, no problems and I carry and use everyday!
 
mwelch8404 said:
Nick, I had a similar problem with another brand and did the same cleaning with great results. I also found out there is a specific kind of "lube" for the threads (sorry, I don't remember the specific type) but it helps with smooth operation and helps it conduct better.

Any experts here remind me of the type of lube?

Marl
Click to expand...

Might it have been DeoxIt? You can get it on the 4Sevens website. I put a drop on the coaxial for the TV and it took the fuzz out of the signal. Great for flashlights, too.
 
Flash Owl said:
all flashlights, can and will stop working at some time. some are designed to handle more abuse.... the most common problems are the mechanical switch. the switch on the 6PLed, C2Led and similar models use a much more reliable switch, than the more commonly used clicky switch.

ive owned a olight M20 R2. this was a few years ago.... i had sold the light to a friend. the switch stopped working after a few months... i tried getting him a new switch, but didnt get any help from olight, and nobody sells spare switches....
my lesson?.... buy lights where spare parts are available, or have a good manufacturers warranty.

the 6PX is a good light, the only problem ive heard of, is that it switches modes too easily with bumps or drops.
i would much rather get the 6PX over the M20S.

if you want something bright and cheap, while still pretty good quality.... Solarforce lights are good. these are better than the typical surefire clones. but at the fraction of the price, with plenty of available option parts, such as switches, tailcaps, bezels etc.... the solarforce L2T, and L2P are a couple of their best models.
these are similar to the Malkoff MD2, and surefire 6P, C2, Z2.... where these use a drop-in module. there are many drop-in module production makers, as well as custom.
surefire designed these for quick and easy field maintenance... the light can be completly taken apart quickly and easily.... and because the models such as the 6P has been around so long, there are many custom makers, option parts accessories, etc etc. without a doubt the most customizable format.
Click to expand...

+1 on the solarforce lights there are so many options you can combine its not even funny i have l2 with a nailbender drop in that i use now 500 lumens for around 75 bucks i also had a l2t with a direct drive 1000 lumen drop in also around 75 bucks but i gifted it to a friend
 
Take a look at Inforce flashlights. You can get a 6VX or even a 9VX for under $100. Meets Made in the USA criteria, very light, very simple interface with a ridiculous strobe. I love mine.
 
If you need a full-size light, look at Elzetta flashlights. Good stuff, in my experience (Run one on my AR, it's survived so far!)
 
DeoxIT is primarily a contact cleaner, although I believe it does leave a protective film a well. Perhaps you are thinking of a grease for conductive surfaces like Nyogel? A lot of folks over at candlepowerforums use it on their lights. It's kinda expensive, but remember that you don't have to use a lot. I've had my little tube for over 2 years.

mwelch8404 said:
Nick, I had a similar problem with another brand and did the same cleaning with great results. I also found out there is a specific kind of "lube" for the threads (sorry, I don't remember the specific type) but it helps with smooth operation and helps it conduct better.

Any experts here remind me of the type of lube?

Marl
Click to expand...

proud2deviate said:
Might it have been DeoxIt? You can get it on the 4Sevens website. I put a drop on the coaxial for the TV and it took the fuzz out of the signal. Great for flashlights, too.
Click to expand...
 
If you're still hunting, I've had a good run(3 days and counting) with my 4sevens Quark "X" AA. It uses a neutral XM-L emitter that runs on 2 AA batteries. You have a total of 7 accessible modes with 5 set with a loosened bezel and 2 more with the bezel tightened. Quite a flexible little light for $70. Easily the best value I've had in a flashlight. Note that running the Max mode for extended periods would be complicated due to less mass to absorb the heat. I usually feel the heat after running it for about 30 seconds.

Overall I feel it's the best value in a light especially compared to my custom bored Surefire 6P with the Type II coating and a Malkoff M61 drop-in, which can only go on or off. Admittedly it runs a lot longer, though AA is a common battery and very user friendly for a non-flashlight enthusiast. A great gift for others, perhaps coworkers. I actually think the Type III coating on the Quark is the best selling point, as I've worn out all my Type II coated lights simply from carrying it in my pocket.

I'll also be upgrading from the included Duracells to Sanyo Eneloop XX so I can have the capacity of an alkaline while still being able to recharge the cell, and without the usual issue of having a drained battery(a problem with normal NimH IIRC) if I don't use the light for a few days.
 
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