Need A New Folder

ugaarguy said:
Join Knife Rights: They've been repealing switch blade / automatic bans and getting preemption passed state by state.

Absolutely. But I do have to ask, are you open to a non-assisted ball bearing flipper that will open just as quickly as an assisted knife and not have a torsion bar to worry about? If so, while it's not an exact match for the shape and style you're looking for, the Buck 830 Marksman is worth looking at strongly. They're well under $100 almost everywhere and with the aluminum handle, 154cm blade, and G&G Hawk SLS lock all made in the USA it's a bunch of knife for the money.
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I'm certainly not against NON assisted knives. But in my OP, I mentioned having the Manix 2. Which is the ball bearing axis lock. Very smooth. Just wanted an assisted open this time.
 
But in my OP, I mentioned having the Manix 2. Which is the ball bearing axis lock.
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Ball bearing pivots are separate from Spyderco's ball bearing lock. A blade on a ball bearing pivot that also takes at least moderate force to overcome the tension holding it closed will flip open faster and more smoothly than an assisted knife.
 
ugaarguy said:
Ball bearing pivots are separate from Spyderco's ball bearing lock. A blade on a ball bearing pivot that also takes at least moderate force to overcome the tension holding it closed will flip open faster and more smoothly than an assisted knife.
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Hm. Interesting.
 
You'd buy the Link in a heartbeat if they offered a better steel?

Get the Link. Use it and abuse it, and see if your opinion is still "garbage".

I'll bet the Link changes your mind.
 
Insipid Moniker said:
And what unit are they measuring toughness, corrosion resistance and wear resistance in? It's meaningless bunk.
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It's definately not exact specs, but it's a good general idea of what you should expect out of said steel.

Heat treat is a moot point when looking at percentage of carbon (toughness in a general sense), molybdenum/vanadium/tungsten carbide (wear resistance) and chromium (corrosion resistance).

Looking at that graph is no different than looking at spydercos steel chart imo. It all makes sense to me:)
 
Blues Bender said:
It's definately not exact specs, but it's a good general idea of what you should expect out of said steel.

Heat treat is a moot point when looking at percentage of carbon (toughness in a general sense), molybdenum/vanadium/tungsten carbide (wear resistance) and chromium (corrosion resistance).

Looking at that graph is no different than looking at spydercos steel chart imo. It all makes sense to me:)
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Except those numbers don't directly translate into any of those attributes, particularly not when differing heat treat protocols and hardness come into play. It's so oversimplified and general that it's functionally useless. People trying to learn about cutlery steels and it's properties are actively worse off having seen it.
 
Insipid Moniker said:
Except those numbers don't directly translate into any of those attributes, particularly not when differing heat treat protocols and hardness come into play. It's so oversimplified and general that it's functionally useless. People trying to learn about cutlery steels and it's properties are actively worse off having seen it.
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What numbers? The ones on Spydercos steel chart?

A lot can be said about any given steel by looking at those numbers. Heat treat will make a big difference, but what's in the steel shows you what it can be capable of.
 
Blues Bender said:
What numbers? The ones on Spydercos steel chart?

A lot can be said about any given steel by looking at those numbers. Heat treat will make a big difference, but what's in the steel shows you what it can be capable of.
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So ZDP-189 has corrosion resistance equal to or better than anything on that chart? It's got 20% chromium, after all.

Of course, it'll have crappy wear resistance because not as much vanadium/molybdenum/tungsten as many of the other steels.

So, if we go by this logic it's a super stainless like N680, best used on dive knives.
 
Insipid Moniker said:
So ZDP-189 has corrosion resistance equal to or better than anything on that chart? It's got 20% chromium, after all.

Of course, it'll have crappy wear resistance because not as much vanadium/molybdenum/tungsten as many of the other steels.

So, if we go by this logic it's a super stainless like N680, best used on dive knives.
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ZDP has 3% carbon, so the corrosion bar would be low. The only thing working for ZDP being wear resistant would be bringing it to a high hardness. Even at a high hardness, it's not a very wear resistant steel since there aren't any hard wear-resistant carbides in the steel matrix. The hardness just adds edge stability.
 
Blues Bender said:
ZDP has 3% carbon, so the corrosion bar would be low. The only thing working for ZDP being wear resistant would be bringing it to a high hardness. Even at a high hardness, it's not a very wear resistant steel since there aren't any hard wear-resistant carbides in the steel matrix. The hardness just adds edge stability.
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I know what the characteristics of ZDP-189 are, but with the logic behind the chart you posted my observations should be correct. As I said, it's painfully misleading and oversimplified.
 
Update. After going through everyones suggestions, I'm happy that I was pointed to ZT. A brand I've always known about, just never really cared enough to look into. I ended up picking up the 566 new for $115 shipped. Everywhere else it was $140+. I Got it mainly because of the similar shape of the Launch 1, and also because of the Elmax blade. Hearing great things about it while knifemaking, I had to try it out. Also see all of the customs scales being made for them. Another project I will have to start in the shop. :D Anyways, thanks everyone. I'm happy about the purchase. Maybe I'll post some pics when I decided to make some customs scales for it.
 
spyderco native 5 lightweight is an excellent knife. I have the g10 version, and I am happy to say I think it is a great and very practical knife. the lightweight can be has for well under $100. I find that the s35vn steel that it comes with is quite the ideal edc knife steel. It has held its sharp edge a little more than twice as long as my vg10 delica ffg which would last for two weeks with my use, the native lasts for a solid four to five weeks. Plus, when it is time to sharpen, it takes the edge back within a minute or two on the stone...very easy to sharpen, and takes a very keen edge.
 
colu41 said:
Ok. ZT0566....is it worth $120? Now I'm between that and the 0770 for $130...but I noticed on the 0770 that the dropped point is VERY dropped. :cool: Not sure I like that or not. Either way, how the hell did my budget go up?
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I've got both, and I carry the 0770 - it's much lighter, and I love the blade shape - it's better than you think as an EDC/utility blade. Definitely worth consideration.
 
Cold Steel Recon 1 CTS-XHP
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Or the Swift AO
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Too bad you cant get the Launch - its a great knife!
[video=youtube;LFNXDj66jEo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFNXDj66jEo[/video]

colu41 said:
So late last year I lost my DLC Manix 2 which was a great knife that I carried everyday. Since losing it, I've been carrying my cheap little Persistence. I am a knifemaker, I just haven't jumped into folders yet so, I'm looking to buy a new one. Heres the deal. I'm not looking for the best of the best, (reminder, I'm carrying a Spyderco Persistence right now). So I'd like to keep it around a $100, preferably a little less.

I was browsing some stuff and found THIS
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I was ready to pull the trigger until I realized, it was an automatic, and I legally couldn't buy it. :( I'm looking for something similar to the look of this. Assisted open, decent steel. I found the Kershaw Blackwash Link which looks similar, but the steel they offer is IMO, garbage. For those of you with more experience with folders, know the knife that I need to buy today?
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