Need a no spark welder...TIG?

Patrice, i have a little inverter stick/tig unit, pretty cheap and with a light duty cycle, but as has been mentioned, for simple shop usage is really handy.
When i built my little forging press i tacked with TiG and "beefed" with stick ;)
Here in italy we have a regulation that forbid moving argon bottles with the car....you need an open vehicle for safety reasons.... sadly i don't have one and i must relay just on the little disposable bottles, not cheap neither long lasting!! :(
 
Scratch start has a much steeper learning curve as you cannot adjust your amps while welding. It takes much more finesse. For example when welding a 6" schedule 40 open root butt joint I will set the machine to 105 and move very very slow at the beginning and towards the end I am moving about 3 times as fast because my machine hasn't changed but the pipe has significantly more heat in it, therefore taking much less amperage to melt the steel. With a foot control and high frequency output you do not have to ever touch the metal with the electrode. I would also set my machine to about 140 on that exact same joint and it would allow me to establish a puddle very quickly, I could also move along the joint relatively fast and back off the foot control as needed. One problem that beginners have is that they set the machine too low in fear of melting through or overheating the steel. With a foot control set it higher than needed because you can always back off. If you set it too low you're waiting around forever for a puddle to establish, it finally shows up, then you dip a giant ice block into the puddle(filler) then the waiting begins again. The weld takes much longer than it should so it appears that you're running too hot when in fact you're just running too slow. Your overall heat input is too much. Where if you run higher amperage your puddle establishes faster, does not freeze when filler is added, and your overall heat input is less.
 
Also if all you planned to weld was stainless or steel and never aluminum you could find much much cheaper machines that would fit the bill. Adding AC into the mix is where the machines get pricy
 
I wasn't claiming scratch start was "better" in any way, all I was saying is that it was an amazing step up from MIG/stick when I first got it.
At that time, it was either scratch or nothing, so I was very happy to have it. Even a used TIG was way out of my budget.
When welding is a full time occupation, you get used to doing things right, with really good equipment...but that's not where a lot of us are.

You're not running it that hard putting layers together or adding a handle to a billet, and you can do some of that without filler metal, which should help your patterns or at least decrease grinding.
Buy a real TIG machine if you can, and never look back :)
 
Wouldn't scratch starting produce sparks? Even on a TIG torch?
 
most of "scratch" start small inverter machines actually have a built in feature so the first touch doesn't spark...only when lifting the electrode the machine starts welding, so there is a negligible gap and virtually no sparks at all.
 
Maxstar Patrice. I'm holding out for a bigger unit but might pull the trigger on a Maxstar since I have the 211 already.
The Maxstar I could use at work more readily to repair stainless kitchen sinks in commercial kitchens. Lift start is nice. It comes with optional foot and finger controls. Plus they are light enough you could put one in your suitcase and bring it on as your carry on luggage from a visit south. And it won't take up room in your shop.

Though I have one friend who had a thermal arc 181 3 in 1 and it did everything he needed.
 
Thanks Bryan, that's a lot better. Looks like about 2100$ CAN plus bottle. Need to call the local welding supply place to see if I can do better. I'd love to pick one up south if the exchange rate wasn't so darn high. :(
 
Just a quick note on sparks. Harbor Freight has cheap fiberglass blankets that you could possibly use to contain the sparks.
 
Thanks MT, I do have what it takes to contain (up to a point) the sparks but not 100% and setup is just too time consuming.

Looks like the Maxstar will be it. Just have to find out the price.
 
Ok we have a local price: 2230$CAN for the welder and an additional 330$CAN for the pedal. Saw a almost new one on eBay for roughly 1500$CAN without the pedal of course. Since I am not in any hurry here, I am sure I can do better than full retail price.

Still more research to do.

Thanks again guys for your invaluable help
 
Patrice Lemée;15342508 said:
Quick question. What to look for or stay away from in a pedal?
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You just have to be sure that it is compatible with your machine. The millers have their own pedal that I really like. Lincoln pedals are not as comfortable. miller uses a 5 wire 14 pin threaded connection
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Patrice Lemée;15342921 said:
Oh thanks Kevin, I thought they were a little more universal than that. Miller it is then.
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They make adapters and what not. Also I've been seeing a big push in marketing for a new esab machine coming soon called the rebel I think, might be worth checking out.
 
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