How To Need a product that eats red loctite

C

calebpo

Joined
Nov 10, 2012
Messages
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Hey Folks,

I have a Sage 5 pivot barrel spacer with one of the pivot screws stuck in there that I can't get out. Tried hitting it with a torch for 30 seconds or so, tried everything, can't break the screw free. Is there a checmical i could toss the whole thing in and leave it there that would eat the red loctite and allow me to unscrew? Barring that, anybody know of a place to get replacement pivot barrel? Checked with Spyderco directly and they said to send the whole knife in which I don't really want to fool with for one little piece.

Thanks!
Caleb
 
Acetone comes to mind but try calling Loctite and ask them. 400 degrees or so is also supposed to release it but I don't know how long it takes.

If you do try acetone then soak for at least 24 hours, the longer the better.
 
How to Remove Stubborn Screws from a Knife

According to the manufacturers of Loctite 263, the red Loctite used on Spyderco’s US-made knives, screws treated with it can be removed by applying heat. However, its specifications state that a temperature of more than 360 degrees Fahrenheit must be reached for it to soften. Such temperatures could easily damage the scales and other components of your knife. Instead, we recommend the following process:

1) Ensure that you have the proper size Torx® driver for your screws and that the driver head is in good condition. A single-piece, screwdriver-style driver works best.
2) Place your knife on a workbench or other hard surface. Use a paper towel or rag to protect the handle from scratches.
3) Insert the tip of the Torx driver into the screw head and ensure that it fits properly.
4) Tap the handle of the driver several times with a hammer to “shock” the screw and break the Loctite bond.
5) Maintain a firm, constant, downward pressure on the Torx driver as you rotate it to remove the screw.
6) If this method is not successful on the first try, repeat as necessary or return your knife to Spyderco with $5.00 for return shipping. We will loosen your knife’s screws upon request.

Source
https://forum.spyderco.com/viewtopic.php?t=74060
 
Acetone is nasty shit, xylene is two steps worse. If xylene works I bet acetone would too, and about as well. Acetone will attack a lot of plastics, which is what you are wanting. Worth a try. Shouldn't attack the nylon? scales though. Nylon is pretty much impervious to solvents, virtually impossible to glue to.
 
Wish this thread was two days earlier. I totally murdered a set of 1911 grip bushings that I didn't realize were red-locked.
 
Home Depot near me has xylene. What goof off used to be. My goof off can still lists xylene but I have had it about 3 years
 
calebpo said:
Is there a checmical i could toss the whole thing in and leave it there that would eat the red loctite and allow me to unscrew?
Click to expand...

Nah, a chemical solvent isn't going to penetrate the threads. The solution is heat. Someone else pointed you to the Henkel page that says 550 degrees. That will do it. But keep in mind that 550 is not the magic on/off number. The strength of the adhesive diminishes as the heat increases. It's not linear, but the more heat you add, the less the strength.

Your "30 seconds" doesn't mean anything. It's all about temperature. If you're holding the pivot in a vise, the vise might be acting like a giant heat sink, sucking away all the heat. Also, if you have it clamped tightly in a vise, you might just be crushing the pivot around the screw, making removal even more difficult.

Heat will be the solution, and the lesson to learn is that high strength loctite is not appropriate in this application.
 
I think I missed the fact that it's the pivot when I read this the first time... and assumed partial disassembly.
Noting the post above, if you don't want to use a vice to stabilize that barrel, you can reassemble the other side and start again from the problem side - heating & beating the screw before you try removing it.
Sometimes, though, once you're at that point, you're - well...screwed.
 
TraditionalMedicinal said:
I never knew loctite could be so bondy, any time I put pressure to it the bond breaks pretty easily
Click to expand...
263 is as good or better than the proper epoxy for bonding two metal parts together like this. I wonder why Spyderco would use a permanent bond thread locker if there is a chance you would want to take it apart later?
 
I never had a problem with using a soldering gun. You need more heat than from a little 40 watt pencil type and more than 30 seconds. More like 3 minutes.

This guy has a different method:

The pivot only has one screw. Warch the video.
 
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To prevent this scenario, before disassembly I'll loosen all screws on all sides, even if that means tightening a screw that I just loosened.

When I forget to do this and have a barrel spacer problem, I'll reassemble the knife as much as necessary to allow me to put the opposing screw back in, which allows me to then loosen the stuck screw.
 
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