I bone-out my deer on the ground as they are bloody heavy critters(up to 750lbs). This is why I use blades ranging between 3-4", it just works better for me.338
My first question is, where the heck do you hunt where the Whitetails go 750 lbs?!? I have wrestled with a 250 lb+ deer, and recall an incident once where an 18 wheel semi hit a 400 lb deer a few miles from here, but can't easily picture the fun of getting one twice that size out of the woods. [FTR, above 220 is hard to get into the wheelbarrow by oneself, much less control the wheelbarrow on hills, so I can see where de-boning onsite would be an advantage.]
I agree with Mongo and the others. Serrations are a mostly useless pain in the rear on a woods knife. Sooner or later you will decide keeping the useless things sharp is not worth the trouble and either leave them dull and lose half your cutting edge, or grind them to a flat edge.
If toughness is your primary requirement, I would indeed look at the Busse family knives. Active Duty if you like them small, the Scrapyard 4" if you really only want a 4" blade, or the aforementioned Scrapyard 6". You will probably want to do some playing with the bevel to get them really sharp, and I am personally not thrilled with the grip shapes or feel on mine (and doing my hunting not too far from home, so I can just walk home or to the barn for a replacement knife if needed) I usually don't bring mine with me when hunting, but they are truly rugged.
I would personally avoid the Gerber if my life would depend on it not failing. I would also avoid just about all of the big knives for woods use. If you must chop wood, use an ax, a hatchet, or a cable saw. If you have a nearby truck, bring a chain saw and some fuel. Conserving energy and not over heating or needlessly exerting ones self is a big part of successful woods craft. I (again the advantage of being close enough to home when hunting (harvesting?) to bring my wheelbarrow full of implements to the scene) use a DeWalt Skilsaw on deer bones/horns. The wood blade works well. Saves lots of calories on my end and eliminates a lot of knife work.
On the cheap end of the spectrum, think about simply getting two (2) Cold Steel GI Tantos, and keep one in your pack, and one on your belt. The Cold steel SRK actually makes a fairly decent (but large) deer knife, BUT the rubber handle gets incredibly slippery when coated with wet blood. This will probably be an issue when reaching blindly up into the chest cavity of a 700+lb deer to cut loose a trachea. Small, and controllable blades without slippery grips are better for unseen but wet tasks. From experience the Busse AD and (no longer made) a Gerber Fatty folding knife both work well without sliding out of my fingers when up to your elbows in bloody and unseen depths.
You're possibly just hung up on the large sheath knife image, but I would seriously consider having a Super Leatherman and a 6 inch or less belt knife and a cable saw (and matches) as my do all combo.