need a supplier for forest, or O.D. micarta, plasma cutting blade blanks???

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Jul 29, 2004
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well, spent a while deciding, and ive reedited my scale drawings to the right proportions, so that they match the W.S.K. as close as possible.
im going with O-1 for the blade, which will be blued. olive or forest green micarta for the handle. and a oxblood or dark brown for the scout style sheath. And let me tell ya, im really exited about this blade.

I cannot find a supplier that sells olive, or forest green micarta. Does anybody know of a maker? Is anyone interested in making some for me?

also im wondering if a plasma cutter is o.k. to cut out the blank? would i have to stay a certain distance away from where the edge will be? will it burn the steel in a certain distance away from where i cut, like an oxyacetelne torch will? if it will ill just get admiral to cut it out before they ship the 0-1. but i might get a free piece from a machinist freind so ill have to cut it out myself.
any thoughts on the green micarta, where to get it? thanks for the help!
 
i was actually wondering the same thing... i can get ahold of the plasma cutter at our school district to do the majority of the blanks, but i wondered about damaging the steel by doing it...
 
yeah, im in agri-science, and we have a plasma cutter in there, and id rather cut it with that then have to use a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder. im sure if you know the wsk you feel my pain. all those curves, its the 73' vette of knives! if you catch my meaning.
 
have you thought about looking for a high pressure water-jet cutter, shouldnt overheat the blade so you could cut close to the lines.
 
nobody around me has any equiptment like that, but i might be ordering the O-1 from admiral. if i order it from them ill have them cut out the blank.
 
I get my Micarta scales from Sheffield's...http://www.sheffieldsupply.com/ I've ordered canvas Micarta scales from them in OD green, black, tan (they call it "natural"), and turquoise/black. They also offer plain turquoise canvas Micarta, but I haven't seen it...and I think those are the only varieties of phenolic scales they offer. I've been very happy with their products.

I don't have any affiliation with them except as a satisfied customer. Good luck!

JM
 
well i tried to see their catalog but it needs to be downloaded, do they sell paper or linen micata in O.D.? thanks for the help jumpmaster
 
The plasma cutter will not harm the steel.Leave a little for trimming up the edges.A test cut on a piece of scrap,or the end of the actual bar should show you what the scarf line will be.
SA
 
well that question is answered! thanks bladsmth, that really helps. but what do you mean by scarf line?
really guys need some linen or paper micarta. it sounds like im jumping the gun, since i dont have the blade done, but i never start a knife i dont have all the materials for so i need some a.s.a.p. still no sources, exept sheffield, and i cant access their catalog.
 
i believe the scarf line he is talking about is the hard melted jagged edge that is left from the metal being melted away.
 
i guess im flogging a dead horse here guys but i need some friggin micarta! just kidding sorry to bring this tread back from the dead but i got my 0-1, and my leather, even my oxpho-blue! still no micarta! i know sheffield sells it but i dont like canvas micata, and i cant see their catalog to know what color it is exactly, (some peoples idea of O.D. are diffrent than mine).
 
texasknife.com

They have been pretty good to me.

What are you waiting for? Get started on that blade! Maybe by the time you get your slabs you'll have the blade done.

Let us know how the WSK turns out.
 
I've bought a lot of phenolic handle material from Sheffields and have been dissapointed. The color in two of the pieces I've bought was not even; a Natural linen and Green canvas. Both have uneven color.

I don't have their catalog handy but I don't believe they have OD green in anything but canvas. It polishes up nicely though and the canvas gives a nice "grippy" feel when wet. Canvas is my choice for any field knife.

Just a caveat though, I won't be buying anything but the name brand in the future. I'd second the suggestion to check with TKS too.

For what it's worth, my experience with Sheffield's has been that they have the best order fulfillment record. I like K&G's stock but they often have to backorder stuff and don't always send what I ordered. TKS was my first supplier and I'm most loyal to them, but they occasionally have stumbled on order fulfillment too. Even so, I'm generally going back to TKS for everything I can. I'll order from others the stuff they don't have, and just suck up the extra shipping cost.
 
The scarf line is the rough edge made by the scarf (the part cut out by the blade or torch).You need to know where the real edge of the cut will be to know where to put the cut line.You will need to anneal the blank after the plasma cut because the edge will be air hardened.Then grind the slaggy cut edge off and finish the blade.I would allow about 1/8" of extra on the profile for trimming,which would put the cut line about 1/4" from the profile line (on the cutter I have access to).Allow more if you are going to "feel" the final shape as you grind.I would allow a little extra on the blade edge area to allow for grinding mishaps (which only seen to occur in the center of the edge).
SA
 
uncle joe, yeah i know i should start but im very hesitant about this blade, like i am with all nice blades, but more than usually when it comes to a WSK! i sure you understand me taking so much precaution in design, and getting the blank just right. i just got the blank finished up, and im already shaking with exitement. wish me luck, im gunna need it when i try and do the guthook! its so worth it though.
 
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