Need advice about a sharpening system

Plumberdv

Plumberdv

Joined
Sep 26, 2008
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I now have a few older Bucks that need to be sharpened and I'm a total clutz when it comes to that. I tried a Lansky years ago, and finally just gave it away.

Is there any thing that is not only fool proof but also idiot proof?? At this point, the quickest way for me to ruin a knife is to try and sharpen it. :thumbdn:

Any suggestions as to what I might try?
 
I like the Sypderco Sharpmaker. Tried one out on my Tempest in 154cm and it did a really good job and quick too. So I ordered one and its hung up on my Vantage order.

I've been using Smith Arkansas stones. They were marketed by Buck though. The ones in the nice ceder boxes. I've got the #134 Washita and #135 Hard stones. I like these a lot to by they require a little talent which I lack.

Also, I have an old Carborundum double sided stone that I use, esp the low grit side when i want to take some off fast.

Lastly, my father gave me his Landsky system but I just don't like it.

Go for the Sharpmaker first. They have a diamond rod option if you need to do some serious profiling. I'd try the basic set first though.
 
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I like my Lansky but I see I am outnumbered two to one. I have the 5 stone set and have used it quite a bit. It was a learning curve but I find it easy now.
 
well tried a lansky years ago and it worked for me..
i still have it
some i have loaned it to had trouble with it and some not
some of my stones have a small bow to them now from use.
you will find something that works for you soon i hope
have never seen a sharpmaker i dont think
have seen one with rods but been an year..
dont recall ever seeing them on ebay at all under knife related stuff..
must be good enough no ones sells theirs!
let me know when you do find some thing..
now it is 50 / 50
 
Here is a Sharpmaker
204mf1.jpg
 
Flat,I can't even see how that thing works! He needs the type that clamps the blade and the stones are guided by rods set at an angle.These are fool proof.Mine is a Blade Master from Smokey Mountain Knife Works.Many firms make them.You cant mess up an edge withit.I like Norton stones coarse,medium and fine free hand.But there not for everyone as its an art of its own.Get the device.DM
 
With diamond rod, stone, grit whatever you choose get- diamond.....
You will need it with some of the hard steel.
300Bucks
 
David Martin said:
Flat,I can't even see how that thing works!
Click to expand...

Dead simple. You just go straight down the rods.

I have the Lansky setup, and I like it fine. I tend to be lazy though and just go to the belt grinder ;).

I can tell you one to avoid though. The DMT Aligner is pure crap. Completely plastic. It bends and twists and leaves no hope for getting a consistent angle. It also only accepts thin blades.
 
kiahs,Welcome.Your very astute.As I was meaning its not fool proof, one still must hold the knife at a correct angle inorder to achieve good results.Proverbial testing the waters maybe applicable.DM
 
I would look at the Lansky or Sharpmaker. Lansky takes a little getting used to but puts a set angle on the blade which I really like.

The Sharpmaker (for me) is a lot of hype. I have one (somewhere) that a buddy gave me since he didn't care for it. It's a modern set of crock sticks. Not bad, but just doesn't thrill me.

That being said, 90% of the time I use a large Arkansas stone.

Thinking about the large DMT (either 8 or 10in) flat "stones" soon.
 
Ohen,Getting and using a 8" stone or larger you'll really enjoy. Like driving a Cadallic.The diamond stones are costly and if sharpening your knives weekly will wear out.A thick Norton two grit India oil stone or crystolon stone is less initial investment and you'll hand it down to your children and they cut just as fast as a diamond. Plus there available in larger configurations.Your Arkansas stone is it a white or Black Hard? I carry high regards for both.DM
 
David,
Thanks for the leads on other options! I liked the DMT but you're right, the cost hurts a bit.

Didn't know that the DMT's would wear out. I'm not a maker, but do a fair amount of sharpening in a month.

The Arkansas stone I have now is dark in color, old, got it at a flea market 10+ years ago. It's probably 8in, but there are times I would like a larger stone for the large kitchen knives or my bowies.

I'll look into the options you pointed out. Thanks again!

Sorry all for the bit of thread drift.
 
The Spyderco SharpMaker is what I use the most. It is the simplest system of those I've tried. It is simpler and cleaner than bench stones (but not as versatile). I can set it up and sharpen the whole set of kitchen knives in about 10 minutes. No mess. No cleanup. It is not foolproof but neither are the other systems. I will never give up my sharpmaker. The other crock-stick systems might do as well, but I haven't tried any.

The systems that use clamps can be very accurate, but for me they were way too fussy to be practical. You use them a few times and then lose interest. Too much trouble. Especially if oil is required. I haven't used my lansky in 10 years.

The Edge-Pro is not a clamp system but it is still trouble to set up and use. It is fun to experiment with because you can get really sharp, mirror polished edges. I haven't used mine in a while though. This system will probably give you the sharpest edges of any.

I love to freehand on benchstones but I'm still learning to do that. After much practice I can now shave arm hair with blades sharpened on my Arkansas stones. These are cool to use with water. With benchstones the speed curve order goes like this: diamond hones, waterstones, ceramic hones, arkansas stones.

If you have shop space you can use paper wheels or belt sanders. If I was going to sharpen for money this is what I would use for mass production.

I have a set of Shapton GlassStones to 16k that I sharpen my straight razors with. I use these with a very light touch to get an edge that shaves like a brand new razorblade. It is like wiping the hair off your face.
 
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i seen at a gun show about 5 years ago a set up that had a guide
and these moveing rods with springs to put pressure on the blade
on both sides at once,, the angle could be changed
it had rough fine and exgtra fine diamon rods
cost then was good bit over 150$
but it seemed like a fool proof system
as every thing was set...
today for working edge
i use plate glass and sand paper instead of stones..
heck i have thought of selling the trangle buck stone set i got..
jest dont use stones much at all any more after i
tryed the glass and wet auto finish sand paper
 
I personally like the ACCUSHARP it's simple to use and can not ruin the blade it will sharpen any size knife even the serrated edges.
You can buy these at any Ace Hardware stores under $15.00
 

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Dave,
Is there a tutorial or some info on the web for your method? Always looking for another option to eval.

I think it was a Warthog sharpener that you may have seen:
http://www.warthogsharp.com/

I've also seen them, no experience with them though. Their site shows for running about $90 if someone wants to test one for us :-)
Plumber, since you started this I nominate you :-) !!!!!!!
 
Opinion from the 300 world,

Got started with lanksy when I really got into knives, upgraded to diamond hones. I really like the precise bevel I can get with Lanksy. Use crock sticks inbetween till rebevel is necessary, usually several touchups down the road. I also have a JET water wheel and leather wheel sharpner but don't use it to sharpen knives but mainly to polish other knife parts. Use it on chisel and planes though.
Lanksy is much better with the small knives, than the larger knives. I would say 110 or smaller. Sucks for most big fixed blades and really thick blade folders. Have and use different grades of sticks to get that polished edge. On big knifes 121 and 118 and kitchen, use just sticks. Carry a two stick set for away from home sharpening, from AG Russell but have seen them other places.
I bevel with Lanksy and fine tune inbetween with sticks. It is a knack you just have to develope. Just like folks who use stones. I started with stones as taught by my watchmaker turned aircraft mech. (war) father but I went my own way later.
300Bucks
 
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ohen cepel said:
Dave,
Is there a tutorial or some info on the web for your method? Always looking for another option to eval.

I think it was a Warthog sharpener that you may have seen:
http://www.warthogsharp.com/

I've also seen them, no experience with them though. Their site shows for running about $90 if someone wants to test one for us :-)
Plumber, since you started this I nominate you :-) !!!!!!!
Click to expand...

yep i think that may have been what i see or some thing close !!
here is a link to fine wood working mag with its artical on sharping
the sand paper instructions are LAST..
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00003.asp
 
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