Need advice about a sharpening system

Hillbilly Bob said:
I personally like the ACCUSHARP it's simple to use and can not ruin the blade it will sharpen any size knife even the serrated edges.
You can buy these at any Ace Hardware stores under $15.00
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i have one of those i got at the shot show i can see that for a work knife it would be great in the tool box .. so
it is ok but i dont like that you can not get a diff angle at all

on a thin dull kitchen knife i have noticed that sharp shavings
seem to fall on the floor
and some weak spots on the edge that will
flake off on first use..
so i dont do the wifes kitchen knives with it any more
which was what i got it for...
so i steel them a few times then get the sand paper out..
 
I have to give a thumbs up for the SharpMaker. :thumbup: I've had one for about a year now and it works well on just about any kind of blade. It's easy to use and it's hard to do any damage to the blade, like unwanted scratches.
Just my $.02
 
Hello everyone,

I've been using the Razor Edge Systems, Inc. for so long now I can't remember when I started using it. I use both the smaller one and larger depending on the knife(s) I'm working on.

I've long had my eye on the Warthog system and hope one day to purchase either it or the Razor Edge Systems Mousetrap Steel.

I do like the DMT diamond stones (Just wish I could have afforded the 8" instead of the 6" ones when I put my kit together years ago) and use them for the initial bevel and then go to a white Arkansas stone, if I want to step it up another notch I go to a hard black stone.

To me a dull knife is just a shaped piece of metal with a handle on it.

Thanks,

Murphy
 
I will admit that the Lansky held in your hand isn't easy for big knives. I have sharpened both my 2 120's, my w49, my w46-8 and my 651 with it and it will kill your wrist. i should buy the base that clamps to the table.
 
Interesting, to hear of the different likes and methods.However,I can tell you every single meat market I've Inspected in the last 20yrs. of the card carring meat cutters who make their living using a knife all use the same stones and same methods.The Norton commerical Tri Hone.Three stones 11.5"X 2.5" X .5" thick w/ mineral oil.In coarse,medium and fine grit.They sharpen knives usually after their shift and steel during.
You'd think I'd see something different atleast once but their pros.We don't sharpen several knives a day.It does take a learned art to use those stones to a high degree of efficiency.DM
 
Plumberdv said:
I now have a few older Bucks that need to be sharpened and I'm a total clutz when it comes to that. I tried a Lansky years ago, and finally just gave it away.

Is there any thing that is not only fool proof but also idiot proof?? At this point, the quickest way for me to ruin a knife is to try and sharpen it. :thumbdn:

Any suggestions as to what I might try?
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I hate re-inventing the wheel - Derrick has the info you want - click onto the sharpening videos link on his home page - best GP edge you'll ever get
http://www.knivesshipfree.com/
 
David M.
That clinched it for me. I'm a bit of a traditional guy and have been disappointed with a lot of the gadgets over the years. If the Norton is what men use who cut for a living then it's on my list upon return. I'm pretty good with a stone, just need more/better than what I have now.
 
Ohen,Just keep working at it, convenience and fast sharpness will come.Then if you find yourself in a situation where you have a dull knife and no gadgets--no problem.Just go to a dry wash find a nice flat stone and within minutes your knife is sharp.DM
 
as a kid i woked in a restrant as a the short order cook
i also used stones and steel and was quite good with them
my humble thoughts on stones vs sand paper on glass
stones
pro= supper easy care for most part easily stowed away and gotten for frequent use
and is much easer to get harder to get finest 'polished edge' that ceramic stones will do.. but thoes stones are not used in restrants
dis= some places use vegtable fry oil which will spoil! and if sharpened on with knife that is not clean can leave meat liquieds on them ( i speak from seeing this happen!)
ware out as in getting dished but will be used any way and hair poping fine edges not needed to cut meat saw edge or as chuck will say "meat edge"


sand paper on glass
dis= glass will break.. sand paper can shed partials larger then stone will
have to get paper to stick and most times need more storage for when not in use adn longer set up thus takes more time to use then stones for a quick good working edge

pro= can get hair poping shaveing edge much faster then with stones and once set up do a meat edge with less work and faster
to refrish paper is CHEEP compared to stones
cost wise is much less then stones

my humble conclusions from using both are that for hand sharping :
if in food industry use man made stones only and keep clean!

for non food use- stones can not be beat for easy storage and quick use..

for takeing any time at all to get fine shaveing edge- sand paper on glass cant be beat
if want to 'polish' the edge the stones may do better when New and FLAT

for gadgets- what ever any one likes is great!

and as david says >> "Then if you find yourself in a situation...
find a nice flat stone (rock) and within minutes your knife is sharp.DM" :):)

i am surprised no one here has said of belving to sharpen a knife
that is truly a skill to learn and i have never tryed it but some praise it highly..
 
They do get hair popping edges w/ the stones I'm speaking of. For I've seen this many times and it doesn't take them very long to do it.The stones will last 30-40yrs. versus
less than 10yrs. for a diamond stone sharpening say, 10 knives a day.Which is normal for a decent size meat market.The reason is the diamond coating is very hard but very thin.Whereas the crystolon is much thicker and throughout its thickness.Yes, I've seen stones dished out and their mostly aluminium oxide or carborundum which are good but not as good quality as the ones I'm speaking of. Use what you want but I'm putting forth knowledgable, correct information.DM
 
David Martin said:
Whereas the crystolon is much thicker and throughout its thickness.Yes, I've seen stones dished out and their mostly aluminium oxide or carborundum which are good but not as good quality as the ones I'm speaking of. Use what you want but I'm putting forth knowledgable, correct information.DM
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humm i have not heard of this one or used it
is it a steel base with cristals on it like diamond?
i know i have seen many dished out solid ones and used them my self
even my hard ark stone in my first buck stone kit got dished to much to use..
i have a black raven stone that i can polish a blade with and dont know what it is made of but it has not dished yet but it is brittle like glass

if a stone can last 20+ years and stay flat.. wow that is one to have
would consider it my self for every day use!
what is ave cost for them?
amd do you have pict?
 
I'm sure one can get it to dish but it will take a long time.Their described on Norton's site.They cut as fast as diamond.Its crystols are suspended throughout the matrix of a kiln fired clay stone.The crystols are very hard and they do the cutting work.I think they'er even offered on Smokey Mountain Knife Works site.
I'm suprised you could dish a Black Hard Arkansas Stone its supposedly the finest natural sharpening stone on the planet.I've not heard of the Black Raven.However, Wayne Goddard,the famous custom knife maker of 20 plus yrs. has written that he has gone to nothing but the Norton crystolon stones.I've been using them and really like the results.
The cost, last time I checked was right at $20 plus shipping for a 2"X8"X1" thick stone. I even bought a 2 grit model for a fellow BCCI member back in Dec. and he has used it and says he likes the way they sharpen.(I4Bucks) They are grey w/ tiny, shiny specks.DM
 
I am a steadfast believer in Arkansas stones. I have an Millie with S90V steel that is harder than a motel mattress. Unfortunately, it came with a blade that would not shave. It took 5 minutes with a hard Arkansas to bring it to hair whittling sharp. Many have said that anything but a diamond hone won't work with S90V, but I will say otherwise.
 
APF,Yes Arkansas stones are renown for their abilities to get knives sharp.Slow cutting but very good and I've noticed that it helps if a high quality company cuts them out.In Ark. there are roadside venders selling seconds of those stones and years back I got one cheap and it doesn't sharpen well.As its not flat on the sides.It takes a substantial investment in precision equipment by companies to produce a stone that really works.
With good surfacing equipment some of them can get to within 5K-10K inch.Making for a fine product to sharpen with.DM
 
I use a ceramic "crock stick" system-sets up like the sharpmaker in that the round ceramic rods form a V in the holder and you start the knife at the back of the blade and pull the knife straight down and moving from tang to tip as
you pull down. Works perfect on hollow ground blades and will sharpen to a shaving edge-doesnt do as well With more flat ground blades or blades that someone has already done a screwed up job on. You can get em at online stores for about $16. Has worked on any Buck I have ever owned new or used.
 
When I ordered the two Vantages and Max, I also ordered a Sharpmaker.
This morning I watched the video that came with it and pulled out two D2 knives that I have that needed touching up. 20 strokes on the fine grit rod (edge side first and then the flat side) and both are very nicely sharpened. Not scarey sharp, but as good as anyone really needs in a working knife. By that I mean, its passes the paper slicing and hair shaving tests with flying colors.

Also, I used the 40 degree angle. It has a 30 degree angle too but the 40 hit the edges just right. The Sharpmaker really is a nice system.:thumbup:

I'd say that if you have had trouble sharpening in the past on regular stones that the Sharpmaker will be an outstanding choice. The instruction video is certainly a plus.
 
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