Need advice for sheath material

One more thing I was wondering about...

~ HYPOTHETICAL ~

You have a holster of... shark let's say. Maybe a layer or two of dense horsehide behind it. You decide to put a fourth layer of shark again on the -inside- of your holster and seal (welt?) the two layers of shark together.

Good idea, or not so good idea? I mean the inside won't rot from lack of drying if no moisture gets in in the first place, right?

Time for some more free experience, my friend.

A. Shark skin is a bit too abrasive for the inside of a sheath/holster.

B. one layer of veg. tan or Horse hide at 7/8 oz and one layer of Shark cemented flesh to flesh should be sufficient for any holster or sheath and the bonus is it is fully leather lined with top grain leather.

C. No matter what you do or what you use, the sheath/holster will take on water/moisture through the needle holes from stitching.

D. The very best way to keep a sheath/holster dry is…………………………to be very careful not to get it wet in the first place!;)

Paul
 
D. The very best way to keep a sheath/holster dry is…………………………to be very careful not to get it wet in the first place!;)

Paul

reminds me of a friend who had a knife and leather sheath hooked to his life jacket ... he had the sheath in about 10 wraps of plastic wrap. He was special though .. and hard headed.
 
"You're putting too much thought into this."


Yeah, I know. Such is the nature of the critical analyst. Still, the more answers I get to questions, the more I learn. (It's so worth the typing)
 
Time for some more free experience, my friend.

A. Shark skin is a bit too abrasive for the inside of a sheath/holster.

B. one layer of veg. tan or Horse hide at 7/8 oz and one layer of Shark cemented flesh to flesh should be sufficient for any holster or sheath and the bonus is it is fully leather lined with top grain leather.

C. No matter what you do or what you use, the sheath/holster will take on water/moisture through the needle holes from stitching.

D. The very best way to keep a sheath/holster dry is…………………………to be very careful not to get it wet in the first place!;)

Paul


Thank you Paul! Elephant is looking better by the day. I love the look of Ray but I could just imagine what it would do to to my clothes (especially as more of a dresser upper outside of treks).

Be like:

STINGRAY VS. SILK LINING

FIGHT!

(Pulls out ray wallet) *CRRSSSHHHTT* O_O

Stingray WINS

...

latest
 
Thank you Paul! Elephant is looking better by the day. I love the look of Ray but I could just imagine what it would do to to my clothes (especially as more of a dresser upper outside of treks).

Be like:

STINGRAY VS. SILK LINING

FIGHT!

(Pulls out ray wallet) *CRRSSSHHHTT* O_O

Stingray WINS

...

latest

:confused: what ever that was...

are you looking for a liner or a decorative inlay ... I still don't know what you're looking for ... by the looks of what you wrote you want stingray as a liner vs silk.

Have you worked with leather? or made a sheath before? Might I suggest you work with basic cow hide to start. make different style sheaths , see what suits you. then try simple 2-3 oz cow hide as a liner. I've never had an issue with wear on my blades with cow hide. Could you explain to us why you need the leather the be abrasive resistant?

Are you a hunter? trapper? is this just a decorative sheath for a collector?

What kind of excursions are you going on that you need such a bullet proof sheath ... ? Unless your goal is purely decorative. Cow hide should serve you well.

cheers

grumpy
 
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Cow hide fore sure. It's been around forever and will work just fine.
 
Is it kosher to ask where a good place is to buy the exotic skins for trim? I've occasionally heard some of the places the best here buy their leather, but hidehouse is the only one that comes to mind.

To be honest, most of the leather I've purchased is from Tandy. Mostly because there is one 25 minutes from me, and I'm a sucker for instant gratification when I have a project in mind. However the the quality has been all over the map. I still have a full side+ that is really poor quality. And the only exotic I've found there is a Python skin.
 
Veg tan is where its at. Especially if you're new. Try inlaying a piece of differently colored veg tan if you must practice the craft. When that's flawless, move on up.
 
:confused: what ever that was...

are you looking for a liner or a decorative inlay ... I still don't know what you're looking for ... by the looks of what you wrote you want stingray as a liner vs silk.

Have you worked with leather? or made a sheath before? Might I suggest you work with basic cow hide to start. make different style sheaths , see what suits you. then try simple 2-3 oz cow hide as a liner. I've never had an issue with wear on my blades with cow hide. Could you explain to us why you need the leather the be abrasive resistant?

Are you a hunter? trapper? is this just a decorative sheath for a collector?

What kind of excursions are you going on that you need such a bullet proof sheath ... ? Unless your goal is purely decorative. Cow hide should serve you well.

cheers

grumpy



AWWWW you edited your post! I liked it better the first time :victorious: ^^^^ That was a joke, Grumpy. Just a joke. :grumpy: ... :applouse:

Beginner Bushman would be my self-appointed title. I'm not a trapper -yet- but I do aspire. I've had sheaths made for me before, but I've not made one for myself. The ones I have are -okay- although nothing like what Paul makes, those are beautiful. I never considered making my own; I should have clarified that, because my thread title is kind of misleading then, isn't it? Here I'm taking advice from experienced artists and professionals so I know who to go to and *what to ask for*. It's not that abrasion resistance is paramount; I just thought it would be a good idea when scraping against brush and branches and trees and whatnot. I could always just try sheaths with different materials and see how they fare, but I thought it would be a good idea to learn what I could straight from the Horse's mouth.

The only reason I'm connecting the dots from that to my societal three-piecery of silk lined suits is because, even though it REALLY shouldn't matter, I'm a fusspot, and like my different accessories to match. There's certainly a practical component to this, though for some reason everything has to look good (I think I'm secretly part woman) and be "THE BEST" (and part American Commando). I should explain myself more clearly and be less wordy (it's a work in progress).


In all seriousness a friend down in AL is going to make me a hatchet in L-6, and that will need a good sheathing. It doesn't HAVE to be bulletproof (though I wouldn't complain...) just going to want something a little unique that will get the job done. I'm liking the idea of a hip-carry style, and for that piece I wonder about a tek-lok interior with a nice leather exterior. That's not something I've seen, but it would balance my penchant for style along with convenience and practicality, if it's realistic. Also have to decide on how badly I want something in 3V (Strider's Model BS) or one of John Graham's fine pieces of work <--- more sheathing.

If I can get this phone working as I like, I'll take some pictures of sheaths I have for some knives and I think you might understand why I'm pushing the way I am for something strong. To be fair, much of what I have was very kindly added in with some knife purchases (why look a gift horse in the mouth?) but in the long run, something more robust might be in order. Probably with more experience on my part, my questions will have a more realistic perspective behind them.


I love you guys :very_drunk:
 
What don't you like about your current knife sheaths? If you use your stuff wear
Is inevitable. I find the scratches and scars give character to my gear. They all tell a story ... Like the scratches and dings on an old k98 or lee enfield. If you're worried about scratches maybe you can relocate your sheath , put your jacket over it. Or in a book bag. I never wear my axe on my belt. I leave it in
The sheath on the snow mobile or quad. My axe is a 3.5 pound double head and 34" handle. Anything smaller is useless for me. If I'm on foot I don't have much use for an axe. For fire making I break branches off by hand , or have my bow saw strapped on my pack ... That being said I do have a small tomahawk with a sheath and belt
Loop but wear it
On my pack. I just find an axe to the hip annoying and bulky.
 
I didn't see if it was answered... How about the Cane Toad for use as inlay? How well does it hold up?
 
Cane Toad is fine for inlays. I think it holds up well enough, but actually everything I used it on was sold, so I don't have any any personal history on its durability. Logic would dictate it's not for really rough and tumble hard use, but then that applies to almost any inlay except maybe Elephant or Shark.

Paul
 
Leather rots when it gets wet and stays wet. Let your sheaths (or boots) dry naturally and then oil them periodically. As leather drys it eventually draws the oils out of it so the oils need to be replenished. I once had a 160 year old gun with the original sling on it that was in beautiful condition. That's what proper maintenance can do.
 
Looks like you've gotten some pretty good advice already, but I'll add my 2 cents. I've been a professional leather worker for 46 years and specializing in sheaths & holsters for 29 years. Yes, you'll have to use at least a 7-8 oz. cowhide for the core. 8-9 oz. would be better. Stingray is beautiful stuff, expensive, and darn near bullet proof, and hard to work with. A couple of exotic skins I work with that are beautiful, reasonably priced, fairly abrasion resistant and easy to work with are Malaysian horned frog, iguana skin and ostrich leg. As for any "moral" concerns, these are all animals that are slaughtered for their meat, and their skins are a byproduct of that, same as the cowhide core. I hope this helps.
 
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