Need advice on the best of the best sharpening systems...

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Mar 2, 2012
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I know this has been talked about on here before, but I can't find a good search for what I need answered.

The bottom line..I want the best or as close as I can get. My wife just ordered me a full kit from Wicked Edge, but it's backordered(which has given me time to ponder) and I'm wondering if it's worth $550? Is there something better?

I don't have the skills to freehand, but I want a razor edge and ease of maintaining that edge.

What would you go with?
 
After watching numerous Youtube videos and reading many forum threads I'd probably go with the Wicked Edge system if I wanted to shell out the kind of coinage it costs for the full kit.
I like how it works...based on what I've seen...not experience.

Before making such a decision, now that I have some experience with my Lansky system, I have to ask myself what knives I'll be using the system on and will the system handle the variety of knives I own or will I have to buy one or more systems or learn how to use more than one system.
How much time I have to spend sharpening knives if I want them "scary sharp" and mirror polish. If I just want a sharp working edge I now know I can sharpen a knife, that hasn't been damaged etc., fairly quickly. If I want a scary sharp, polished edge I know it may take over an hour per knife...I currently use my coffee table and the system is nearly a permanent fixture allowing me to work on my knives while watching tv with my wife...yes she is amazingly accepting of my compulsion to work on my knives, hers too, in the living room.

I like my Lansky system. I started with the basis Arkansas stone kit but have since added the medium and fine diamond hones as well as the ultra-fine and sapphire ceramic hones. The diamond and ceramic hones are amazing and it is very easy to reprofile an edge and bring the edge to a scary sharp, mirror polish with a nice even bevel across the edge.

The Lansky is not perfect and I notice that keeping the guide rods perfectly flat, they are a bit softer material than I'd prefer for what they do, is key to keeping the bevel even as you use the different hones.

I can't speak of other systems as I've never used one other than a bench stone which gives me mixed results, usually not satisfactory except for my large knives that the Lansky won't do well.
 
It's not that you can't freehand you've just never put forth the effort. It's typically a confidence issue when approaching the stone, what angle, how do I hold it, will I mess it up, will it get sharp, you can try and replace that fear with a machine but then you run into a skill and knowledge problem. If you do not know how to sharpen then you don't know how to sharpen and a device will not fix that. How do I know? Because I'm sent knives sharpened on a EP or WE and through freehand technique correct the often distorted bevel and exceed the sharpness set by the device by many times.

You might surprise yourself if you spend a little time with a quality stone and some proper instruction.
 
I agree with Knifenut. The best sharpening system is between your ears. Until you understand the mechanics of getting the two planes of your edge to meet at an apex, no system will satisfy you. I almost choked when I read how much you are spending on this system. If you learn the basics, you could out-sharpen this sytem with a $10 stone and a home-made strop. I would suggest researching the topiuc on this forum a bit. In fact, try reading this thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/222864-I-m-a-sharpening-Kung-Fu-Master!
Post 17, Fulloflead describes his sharpening method. This is like "Sharpening 101". Read it, try it, read it again, try it again. Once you understand this process, you could sharpen on the frosted edge of the side window in your car, and get better than razor-sharp edges.
 
not everyone can learn to freehand sharpen in a reasonable amount of time. some people pick it up in no time at all, some still struggle after months and months of practice. and it's not very hard to understand the underlying principles of sharpening. most could be very knowledgeable after just a half hour of the correct reading. Someone that has to work very hard to pick up freehand sharpening may lose the skill quickly if they don't practice on a regular basis and because practicing sharpening every day isn't feasible they want a wicked edge or something similar. My point: there is nothing wrong with guided systems. If you don't want to answer the OP's question you don't have to say anything at all. If he wanted advice on freehand sharpening he'd ask for it.
 
If you learn the basics, you could out-sharpen this sytem with a $10 stone and a home-made strop.

Uhm, have you actually TRIED a WEPS? I actually own one. And I'd guess that Murray Carter with a $10 stone would kick my ass edge-wise. But I'd bet very few other people could. Maybe with a good set of waterstones and a lot of time. Maybe.

Don't let all the down-talk get to you, man. Grasp the few basic concepts and the light feel for the paddles with the WEPS, and it will produce edges that will make you shiver. The addition of the higher grit diamond paddles and the ceramics are well worth it, along with either the WEPS strop paddles or a good hand strop. I run the stock series, plus the 800/1K paddles and 5u /3.5u strops, and get repeatable, precise hair-popping edges every time. With an acute angle, passing a HHT with a suitable blade and the WEPS is not a problem at all.

Sure, you can sharpen just fine on a benchstone, and with a LOT of experience you can get great edges! Or you can use a guided system, and get equally awesome edges in a fraction of the learning curve.
 
I appreciate all the info! Most of my blades are recurves or semi recurve and I just simply don't feel like using an old school stone at this point. I'm going to try the WE and hope it works well. I could always finish with a nice stone once I get some practice. Thanks again !
 
I went with Lansky system and am happy with it. I have experience with freehand as well but the lansky is quick as well.
 
I have the wicked edge, and it is outstanding! The more I use it, the more I like it. Now, if you want the "best of the best" then you also must take into account which stones to get... most people will deem the "best" stones as the Shapton pro stones, but they cost a LOT of money - which I haven't dolled out yet lol. This is the thing about the WEPS that I like so much... you have an owner (Clay) that is very involved in the development and progression of his system, so much so that he is constantly doing research and will modify his system to make it better at any given point (i.e. he is not too proud to say that he could have done it better).

Here is an example of what I'm talking about... check out the microscope progression and research that he has done with the stock diamond, ceramic, and strops that come w/ his package.

Here is another example... he has designed a *fix* for the rod arm bases to make them have less play. You can't beat this level of customer service.

I have had a Edge Pro Professional model as well and really loved it - very well built and very precise. Hope this helps!
 
I'd love to have the Wicked Edge system myself. All I have is an old Sharpmaker and an extra coarse DMT to go with it. After reading about paper wheels and 1x30 Harbor Freight beltsanders I would be interested in buying one of them to try before I spend a lot on something like the WE. My knife funds are pretty limited and if I had the money to buy the WE system, I would just buy a couple more knives instead.
 
$550? Holy crap. Hopefully that comes with a very nice selection of stones. If so, that's a little more reasonable; you could spend that much on a set of really nice bench stones.

I know it's capable of very good edges, but it doesn't strike me as a $500 machine (again, unless that price is due to including a wide range of stones).
 
I agree with Knifenut1013.

My own take on the matter though, is that even if you manage to get a scary-sharp edge with the WE (which of course your will),
you'll never know anything about sharpening, i.e. what you could have done better and what you're doing wrong.
Learning on a stone is really the first thing one should do, in order to be able to appreciate and get the most out of whatever system you buy.
I've recently bought the EP Apex, and, while I'm very happy with it, I must say, that I really wouldn't have enjoyed it as much, had I not already been very proficient at freehand sharpening.
I know that the WE clamps the blade in a vise, so you basically have to be a fool to get it wrong; but, you're just buying you're way out at a VERY high cost.
I bought the almost as expensive EP Apex because I was tired of setting bevels by hand on a stone and I needed I portable system (I often sharpen for others).
The EP is basically freehand sharpening though, because you need to control the blade angle at all times by hand, but you have a guide -- which you can have on a stone as well.
The WE removes this requirement, but you can't get as many accessories to it right now and you'll learn absolutely nothing about sharpening.
It's a great system, but I'd only recommend systems like the EP, WE or Tormek to people who have already walked the path of freehand-sharpening for a while;
because, quite frankly, you won't know anything or learn much and therefore won't be able to appreciate the true value of these systems,
since there are many other systems which will produce a similar edge at a fraction of the cost.
These systems will be able to create a more uniform edge than what you will ever be able to do via freehand.
They are imo for people who understand what they can truly get out of them and not for the beginner,
because a beginner is basically just getting a Ferrari before learning how to drive really well with one, which in my book just makes you look like an idiot.

Start with some stones and do the reading. It won't take much to become proficient at it, unless you've got physical issues.
Learn how to use and handle a knife properly and what makes the edge stay sharp and you'll be more rewarded than any system will ever make you feel.

IMO, one should not be around scary-sharp edges before having gone through the learning curve which will get you such an edge. Such knives require that effort in time, for safety reasons.
If you learn how to sharpen a knife to that level on your own, you'll have had the time to experience different edges and because of this, you'll have had the chance to learn from your mistakes.
A sharp 120-400 grit knife will cut you badly, but a 12K+ polished edge with barely any amount of force can utterly destroy whatever is in it's path.
The bottom line is that a super-scary-sharp edge is only safer to an experienced user and most likely more dangerous to the inexperience one,
because the experienced user has learnt how to control that power by paying their dues and set user will probably have learnt how to use that edge with finesse, instead of force.

Owning a real Katana won't make you a Samurai, and, you won't be able to understand or make use of it's full potential unless you've gone through all the stages.

Most of the people skidding off the road with expensive, high-end sports cars aren't race-car drivers, which should tell you something. There are no shortcuts to getting the most out of things.
 
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I just got the wicked edge last friday and i sharpened up my para 2, delica, gayle bradley, a kabar usmc all to hair popping, extremely sharp the first night i got it. It is a great system, and i would recommend that anyone buy it.
 
I concurs with Knifenut1013 & Stoffi - excellent thoughtful perspectives!

I got serious with sharpening in 2006, bought EP top-of-line and an 8k kitayama stone. Knife after knives got sharper and sharper along with angle gradually drop down to 20deg inclusive. Ruined a few jknives -> Idiot falled off the EP ladder - by 2009 - realized I sucks at this. 2011 began to lurk in multiple forums and watched quite a few youtube sharpening videos. You should try freehand with Stones & Strops, it's actually more fun & rewarding than start out with guided-system. Similar to Stoffi - I use my EP to set low grit bevel setting at certain angle (for precise angle - lol - youtube + read).
 
your left hand, your right hand, a water stone and a blade to be sharpened. the best sharpening system.

I've read on the back of the literature that comes with the HEST folder to use a whetstone or diamond sharpener not a motorized grinder. Would just a whetstone be fine or do you use both? No way I'm going to spend that kind of money on a sharpener. I'll learn the easy/hard way and I'll be fine.:)
 
I think the WEPS is the best system out there.

That being said, if i knew then what i know now, i would have saved myself a LOT of time. I have a Rubber Maid container FULL of large choppers, some of which came with VERY uneven grinds &/or too steep of a grind angle. I now have a $30 HF 1"x30" belt sander. (they happen to be on sale right now-don't forget your 20% off coupon too, that you can find in any guy magazine) I also bought some HQ belts from elsewhere. Takes less than 30 sec to change the belt. Up to 1200 & a leather strop w/compound. The key with these is to practice on cheap stuff & get good at it BEFORE you attempt anything expensive. MANY professional sharpeners use them. One even has 5 set up side by side with all different grit belts & one with the leather strop & compound. It is simply amazing how fast you can restore a messed up edge.

A guy i work with just gave me a Gerber folder, worth about $5, but had sentimental value. He said he had been trying for a month to freehand sharpen it. It was so dull that you could run your finger down the blade with some force & it would not cut you. Took me less than 5 minutes to have it shaving paper & hair & all the chips were gone. The key is GENTLE. I barely touch the steel to the belt. I used to get the chills thinking about putting ANY of my blades to a machine. Not anymore. I also did 3 CS $20 kukri machetes in 15 minutes. You could run your finger down the blade with force & it would not cut you. 15 minutes later they were shaving paper & hair off the owners arm. He was amazed. If you need a working edge & not one that is "under a microscope perfect" & have a lot of blades to do, i would seriously look into this. You can always get the WEPS at a later date, to finish off & polish the edges once you get them sharp.
 
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