Need advice on what sharpening gear to buy, got my first 'real' knife (s90v)

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Oct 16, 2015
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Hi All,

I just bought my first 'real' knife, a BM 940-1. First of all, let me say I'm VERY happy with the knife I got! It's centered perfectly, bevel grind is relatively even (slightly higher in the middle) and the tip is straight as it could be.
Unfortunately, I'm not real happy with the factory edge... It cuts paper, but it certainly doesn't pop a hair. I think it's best to sharpen it (or have it sharpened) prior to first use, and then touch up regularly. However, I'm not really sure on what to buy. I've read tons of different opinions on what works, and what doesn't work, diamonds or no diamonds, and stopping at a relatively coarse grit as well as polishing until shiny.

Then there's also another thing, I've got some straight razors and kitchen knives, which I'd also like to sharpen with the same gear if at all possible.

I'm looking to learn freehand, using some other knives lying around. At this point not really opposed to a guided system, but have a feeling that stones will be more versatile in the long run.
The knife will be used for all sorts of small household tasks, cutting rope and tape, opening letters and bags, occasionally cutting some food or stuff in the garden. I'm ok with a somewhat toothy edge, that'll remain sharp for a long time, as opposed to a super fine shiny edge that will wear quicker. Thinking about stopping at 600/800 grit.

Now for some concrete questions!

1. I've read diamond is way easier to use, I understand this. But I've also read that using a waterstone is possible, it just takes ages. Would it be feasible to get Chosera/Professional stones for example, and sharpen this knife on them? Reason I'm leaning to something like the Chosera stones is that this is my only knife in such a hard steel, I don't really care if it takes an hour to sharpen it, while it could take 3 mins, as I think this will be a once in x months chore.

2. Which stones would you recommend? If water stones I'm thinking about the Chosera 400 and 800, and later on getting the higher grit options to sharpen razors/kitchen knives on. If diamond stones, I'm thinking about the DMT, and getting coarse and fine. After both, I'd strop with diamond paste, and keep doing that on a regular basis for maintenance.

3. When touching up the edge, is it ok to just run it across the Chosera 800 or DMT F stone a few times? Or will this take a very long time on the Chosera as well?

4. Am I overlooking something here, is there anything else you would get besides the stones, a holder and a flattening stone themselves?

Perhaps you can tell right away, I don't know much about this.. I know it's easy to just order the Chosera's for softer steels, as I've been planning to do for some time for my straights now, but this is a different game..

Any advice/comments welcome!
 
Look into the Work Sharp GSS with the strop kit.

Otherwise.

$500

Gets you everything you mentioned.

In the end, its really just knowledge, experience and practice.

I also have a BM 940-1

Best EDC I've ever owned.

It seems I can hone it almost indefinitely with my Work Sharp Field Sharpnener using the strop, ceramic rod, and after heavy use, a few alternating strokes on the fine diamond. To keep it hair popping sharp at all times.

Peace
 
I'd get a coarse/fine DMT plate and sheet of 15 and/or 6 micron diamond lapping film.

Second choice would be an inexpensive hardware store silicon carbide combination stone and some oil. You can use the mud that forms on the fine side as a stropping compound, just smear it on a sheet of paper and wrap it around the same stone.

That steel really needs diamond abrasives if you want to sharpen it to a fine edge. For more of a user's edge where you aren't refining it down to far, a silicon carbide stone will work very well. Other abrasives found in most waterstones are Aluminum Oxide - will work well enough at coarse and medium finishes but not so good for a finer edge. They will work great on other steels with lower Vanadium carbide content, but not the best choice for what you have.
 
Atoma 140
Shaptons 220, 1500, 5000 (optional 1000, 8000)
Strop (roo or nanocloth ideally)
1u Poly Diamond or CBN.

This little setup leaves you all kinds of options and will handle this steel well. You can do a really coarse edge off the Atoma 140, with some practice it will throw hairs. Or medium coarse with the 1500. Or you can start to get polished edges off the 5k.

No matter what you finish on with this setup you can run it accross the strop a few times to push a little more out of the edge provided your burr removal is good.
 
Most waterstones will not touch S90V, that includes Shapton pro's and the Naniwa Chosera.

To be honest, even the Shapton Glass stones really start to struggle with this steel. I do like the 500 glass followed by 1 micron diamond compound on this steel but for anything finer I must use diamonds.
 
On my knives I don't take them very fine, giving them a utility edge. A Norton combination coarse/ fine SiC stone with learning good sharpening technique would keep your BM 940 with a good edge. Razors are a different animal requiring much different technique and stones plus strops. These two should not be lumped in the same topic. Learn one at a time. DM
 
Thread starter found out that he and i both live in the Netherlands, and also only about 20 miles apart.
Next Tuesday he's bringing his BM 940-1 for a new edge, and diamonds will be my weapon of choice.
 
Most waterstones will not touch S90V, that includes Shapton pro's and the Naniwa Chosera.

To be honest, even the Shapton Glass stones really start to struggle with this steel. I do like the 500 glass followed by 1 micron diamond compound on this steel but for anything finer I must use diamonds.

Sigma Power Select II stones should have no problem cutting any steel, and if lapped prior to each use should not be too hard to keep flat.
 
Sigma Power Select II stones should have no problem cutting any steel, and if lapped prior to each use should not be too hard to keep flat.

I only have one sigma and I find it wears quite fast. I start with my shaptons glass or dmt plate and if Ifind I want a finer finished edge I use dmt like Jason said or atoma.
First nice knife, first foray into sharpening I think I would get a couple dmt plates and learn how to use them. You have options, Mr Martin has another means to an end that will work great also. Read up, make a purchase, and have some fun Man! Good luck........... Russ
 
Well, yes, for most users SPS-II stones will wear quite fast compared to most other waterstones. They are designed to do so to increase cutting speed, and in particular to retain their effectiveness on steels with very high carbide contents that conventional waterstones do not work well on. As I lap my stones prior to each use, I haven't found their wear speed to be an issue.

I consider my time to be more valuable than having to replace a stone every few years.
 
Well, yes, for most users SPS-II stones will wear quite fast compared to most other waterstones. They are designed to do so to increase cutting speed, and in particular to retain their effectiveness on steels with very high carbide contents that conventional waterstones do not work well on. As I lap my stones prior to each use, I haven't found their wear speed to be an issue.

I consider my time to be more valuable than having to replace a stone every few years.

I consider sharpening to be relaxing and a pleasure. That being said, dmt plates are really fast and you don't need to spend your "valuable" time lapping...
This guy is just getting into nice knives and sharpening, I personally think he would be better served by a few diamond plates then a couple sigmas plus a lapping plate.
I am spending my valuable time typing this because I want the OP to get off to the right start in this great hobby we all enjoy.
Russ
 
I consider sharpening to be relaxing and a pleasure. That being said, dmt plates are really fast and you don't need to spend your "valuable" time lapping...
This guy is just getting into nice knives and sharpening, I personally think he would be better served by a few diamond plates then a couple sigmas plus a lapping plate.
I am spending my valuable time typing this because I want the OP to get off to the right start in this great hobby we all enjoy.
Russ

I learned to freehand on DMT plates and I found that they offer less audible and tactile feedback than waterstones, are less forgiving of a beginner's freehanding technique, and are much more prone to forming a large, ragged burr. If i had to do it again, I think I would have been much better off getting into waterstones immediately rather than learning on DMT and Atoma plates.
 
S90V is really wear resistant. You'll need diamond plates if you value your time. Look into DMT.

I just touched up a 10V (another wear resistant steel) blade on my DMT fine/extra-fine plate. 10V and DMTs were made for one another, took an awesome edge.
 
Whoa, lot of reactions! Thanks! :)
Guess this forum doesn't notify until after the next visit... Sorry for not responding! I've been rather busy and didn't look into all options in great detail yet, but would've responded a little earlier knowing how many reactions I got.

As Kwackster said, he and I live very close to each other, and he has taken care of my knife and gave me some advice on how to keep it sharp, and on the options of sharpening. I'm happy with it as it is right now, and now have a better understanding of the differences in what's needed between sharpening from scratch, and touching up. No affiliation, just a happy 'customer'.

Regarding the time vs material being more valuable discussion; as I said before, I don't mind if it takes a little longer. Shouldn't take days, but I'm happy with spending a little time on things like this, and enjoying the satisfaction the results bring me afterwards :)

I still haven't made a decision on what exactly to get, but it's now very clear to me that something like Chosera's isn't going to work for this type of steel. No problem, just have to buy different gear for knives and razors. I know the technique is different, I've looked into sharpening razors before but never got around to buying stones, I don't use my razors every day and have bought multiple, so there isn't much need to sharpen them yet. Using a felt and leather strop still does the trick at this point.
I'm leaning towards getting a Sharpmaker and stropping with 1u diamond paste to retain the edges of my knives, and then getting DMT or Atoma diamond plates later on. But still a ton of reading to do!
 
I had a similar situation with S110v. After looking through some recommendations I got on here I ordered a set of Shapton Glass stones, a course DMT plate, & A balsa strop with some 1 micron Diamond spray. Should be here this week I'll post back after I play around with them & let you know how they work on the more wear resistant steels.
 
I had a similar situation with S110v. After looking through some recommendations I got on here I ordered a set of Shapton Glass stones, a course DMT plate, & A balsa strop with some 1 micron Diamond spray. Should be here this week I'll post back after I play around with them & let you know how they work on the more wear resistant steels.

Have fun Man, that is some cool stuff you have coming, you will need something to flatten those shaptons with, cktg has an inexpensive 140 grit diamond plate, would do the trick. Russ
 
Have fun Man, that is some cool stuff you have coming, you will need something to flatten those shaptons with, cktg has an inexpensive 140 grit diamond plate, would do the trick. Russ

I'm hoping the DMT will work to flatten 500 & higher grit stones, the DMT is 320 grit I believe. I'm gonna ask around first but hoping that will work for now. I've looked at the one CKTG has before, for the price it might bd a good one to grab as well.
 
Jason may chime in. I have an extra coarse but don't even really use that for flattening. As you said the cktg is a pretty good deal. Russ
 
Only the XXC DMT plate is rated for lapping duties. The Coarse is an awful choice IMO and you will likely see the diamonds being ripped from the plate while lapping, it will look like you are grinding steel.

Going with a cheap plate when using one of the highest grade and most precise waterstones doesn't make much sense to me. That cheap plate might work but it also might come warped and that is no good for lapping. Some Wet/Dry sandpaper on the back side of the glass stone works well to lap other glass stones. I wouldn't recommend it long term but it's better than destroying tools.
 
Only the XXC DMT plate is rated for lapping duties. The Coarse is an awful choice IMO and you will likely see the diamonds being ripped from the plate while lapping, it will look like you are grinding steel.

Going with a cheap plate when using one of the highest grade and most precise waterstones doesn't make much sense to me. That cheap plate might work but it also might come warped and that is no good for lapping. Some Wet/Dry sandpaper on the back side of the glass stone works well to lap other glass stones. I wouldn't recommend it long term but it's better than destroying tools.

Well, there you have it. I bought one and set it on glass and it seemed flat enough to use. That being said, I have either an eex or a dia flat going on my Christmas list.
I like the suggestion of using the back side of the shapton for lapping. Jason, what grit paper would you recommend for flattening a shapton glass 500? I need to go over mine and have been nervous about it. Russ
 
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