Hey yall. As title suggests, im going on a very extended camping trip (6 months minimum, 1 1/2year max) what would be the best as a general camp blade? Money is not an issue, ill be testing many, many blades before i decide. My uncle had a Busse with knuckle dusters on it, that was the first id ever seen and fell in love instantly. Obviously i wont be punching a tree down however. Id love to hear thoughts and opinions!!
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Need advice!! Performance on extended camping trip
- Thread starter jay1992
- Start date
Isn't the Team Gemini the walking dead blade? If so, that was probably the best part of that show. LOVE the way it looks.
Awesome. They better be bombproof for that price!!! Haha I'm sure they'll outlive me.
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I second both of those recommendations (JH-10 & TGULB). JH-10 probably my top choice.
You can also add the following to your considerations.
Stuff I own and like for that stated purpose: Basic 11, SYKCO Trash 2, Swamp Rat Eraticator, and any of the recent SYKCO 7-8” offerings. SYKCO AD6 (INFI) and FHFG RMD (INFI) are great too if you want something on the slightly shorter side.
Stuff I don’t own but think will be awesome: ASH-1 or 2, Swamp Rat MountainManDu,…
I don’t know about you, but for me, a good general camp blade (for me) would be 6”+, LESS than 1/4” thick, easy to sharpen, full-flat grind preferred. If I can have multiple, I’d want a 5-6” blade always on me, accompanied by something 10-13” when I need.
You can also add the following to your considerations.
Stuff I own and like for that stated purpose: Basic 11, SYKCO Trash 2, Swamp Rat Eraticator, and any of the recent SYKCO 7-8” offerings. SYKCO AD6 (INFI) and FHFG RMD (INFI) are great too if you want something on the slightly shorter side.
Stuff I don’t own but think will be awesome: ASH-1 or 2, Swamp Rat MountainManDu,…
I don’t know about you, but for me, a good general camp blade (for me) would be 6”+, LESS than 1/4” thick, easy to sharpen, full-flat grind preferred. If I can have multiple, I’d want a 5-6” blade always on me, accompanied by something 10-13” when I need.
littlehoot
Platinum Member
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If I had one for every day needs, it would be my ashbm.
Climber
Platinum Member
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- Feb 12, 2001
- Messages
- 545
Jay1992,
Having handled a few Blades -- that's like Rambo saying, "I've fired a few shots" in Rambo III -- I would choose the Busse Scrapyard DB-321, Without Question:
#1) She's Available Quickly
#2) She's 8 1/8" Blade Length; at least mine is
#3) She's less than 1/4" thick, Very Lightweight in the hand to Not fatigue your arms yet with enough length to chop Anything you should chop with a hand tool
#4) Easy to Sharpen; Find her (AEB) Angle at Edge Bevel, by feeling for it on your stone or stick, and be consistent at that angle, and she will shape up within but a minute or two
#5) Nearly a full flat grind; technically a saber grind, But: a High Saber Grind with a Large Blade Width/Height
#6) A bit of the Blade metal's weight is RIGHT ATOP the Sweet Spot for Chopping, kinda like a Nesmuk Inuit design yet in a larger size, so it cuts as effectively as a heavier knife, WITHOUT being a heavier knife...
#7) Resiprene-C handle is Impervious to just about EVERY Chemical, and do you Know What you will encounter in 6 to 18 months' time, away from Home? No one ever does...
#8) Resiprene-C handle is about the Most Comfortable handle material in an ergonomic configuration; that is about the Best Ever Designed: It FEELS COMFORTABLE in the Reverse Grip; plus the True Reverse Grip ("Backwards Grip" for Hammering with spine, when rarely needed), and any frontal, forward grip you choose -- WITH NO HOT SPOTS when pounding her hard for 90 minutes at a time. I haven't abused her more than that length; Not because she couldn't take it, but because my arm couldn't; She was begging for more...
#9) She knows her way around the kitchen/food prepping tasks; Again, without fatigue for her light weight.
#10) The 52100 premium ball bearing steel made better with transversion-wave tempering into SR-101, when she does get a bit Dull, ROLLS -- instead of chips -- just like INFI, so you Don't need to re-profile the edge, but merely "put her back into alignment" with your Sharpener; or should we call that tool the "Edge-Re-Aligner...?" This means she will maintain her edge profile throughout your trip, without you having to outlay costly expenses mid-trip when that will be highly inconvenient, if due to a catastrophic edge failure from a knife that can suffer a chipped edge!
#11) There is a Super-Tough Sheath available from Scrapyard When You Purchase the Knife, that Won't break, rip, tear, or Let Go of the Knife Until You say so: Those Danny the Bull Sheaths are Tight! I'm speaking from the experience of having one for the WS-1020, NOT the DB-321: I made my Own for Her; but I can't imagine from the pics that look identical except for length, that the sheaths would have ANY difference in Integrity or Strength: i.e., Top-Notch. VIEW the mere 1-minute Video on the Scrapyard Website and if it doesn't make a Believer of you, come talk to me again: Bo knows Diddly; Jill knows Jack, and I Know Sheaths..!
#12) The Cost: We're talking a mere $215 for this piece of Life-Saving Security; Plus a few bucks more for the already made-to-fit Super-Tough Sheath. Or D~ Brown can make you one; Azura Leather Holsters can send you one; Several Sheath Crafters here on the B/F can make you one; Heck, I can make you one; but ask yourself How Fast do YOU Need this turnaround? Better bet to simply get a made-for-that-model Sheath at the same time: No Wait; No Fuss; No Muss...
If it were me, I'd couple that with the WS-1020; the 4" Near Trail-Point Blade, Also with a Super Comfy Resiprene-C handle, with Super Tough Sheath. (I say "Near" for it does have a "little drop" in the last 3/4" at the tip, a Great Design when gutting an animal to keep your wrist in straight alignment to avoid carpal tunnel or wrist bending strain or sprains under pressure or load; otherwise, the Edge to Rise Ratio is sheer perfection.)
The Pair can do about anything you'd ever need to ask a Blade to do in camp chores.
I'm about to revamp my whole way of thinking "Camp" after obtaining this Dynamic Duo: Batman & Robin Never Had it So Good...
With the lightweight 8+" blade, you can eliminate the need for a hatchet altogether; less fatigue on your body, and you can conserve your vital energy for other tasks. For any heavier cutting needs, take along your "giant splitter welded to a piece of thick pipe" that you wrote that you had over on the Axe, Hatchet & Tomahawk thread! (Yeah, I read All your posts, so I can get an idea of what you've already been told; Ha! I do my homework :- )
If I were a rich man, and Read Your O-Post, I'd just Buy the Pair for Ya, and you can take ANYTHING Else you so chose; just so you can tell me How they performed in comparison with whatever else you brought! Alas, I am not in that enviable position at this time. More's the Pity.
May You Gain Wisdom from your ponderings and knife-need searchings,
and Choose Wisely in your Matter Separators,
in Whatever You Decide,
Edge-Hopper...
OH, and since you Started this thread, you are hereby Obligated to Inform Us as to What You Decided!
And Upon your Return to this social convention we somehow justify as calling "Civilization,"
To Reveal to Us:
(A) How your Trip Went,
(B) Under what conditions your Blades were put through, and
(C) How your Blades Performed...!
Thank You in Advance...
One Last Thing: Have a Great Trip...!
Last edited:
Never leave without my sod buster junior but always like to have a light weight skinning knife on my belt in a sheath something like Uncle Henry has a small lightweight skinning knife but that's just my personal opinion I don't like to leave without either one of those you know that or a boot knife and it's always good to have you a little tiny hatchet with you out there in the woods
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- Mar 17, 2020
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I would take my TGULB for best all around knife. Good size to it and light weight. Perhaps order a coated blade with canvas to keep the cost down? There's the Mega Ratweiler in the shop, but I know mine would wear my hip out after 6 months lol. Scrapyard also has some 8" blade options. I don't have any experience with the JH-10.
tinfoil hat timmy
Gold Member
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- 20,644
Dont forget to bring a ceramic rod or butcher steel for field touch ups.
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- 6,973
Jay1992,
Having handled a few Blades -- that's like Rambo saying, "I've fired a few shots" in Rambo III -- I would choose the Busse Scrapyard DB-321, Without Question:
#1) She's Available Quickly
#2) She's 8 1/8" Blade Length; at least mine is
#3) She's less than 1/4" thick, Very Lightweight in the hand to Not fatigue your arms yet with enough length to chop Anything you should chop with a hand tool
#4) Easy to Sharpen; Find her (AEB) Angle at Edge Bevel, by feeling for it on your stone or stick, and be consistent at that angle, and she will shape up within but a minute or two
#5) Nearly a full flat grind; technically a saber grind, But: a High Saber Grind with a Large Blade Width/Height
#6) A bit of the Blade metal's weight is RIGHT ATOP the Sweet Spot for Chopping, kinda like a Nesmuk Inuit design yet in a larger size, so it cuts as effectively as a heavier knife, WITHOUT being a heavier knife...
#7) Resiprene-C handle is Impervious to just about EVERY Chemical, and do you Know What you will encounter in 6 to 18 months' time, away from Home? No one ever does...
#8) Resiprene-C handle is about the Most Comfortable handle material in an ergonomic configuration; that is about the Best Ever Designed: It FEELS COMFORTABLE in the Reverse Grip; plus the True Reverse Grip ("Backwards Grip" for Hammering with spine, when rarely needed), and any frontal, forward grip you choose -- WITH NO HOT SPOTS when pounding her hard for 90 minutes at a time. I haven't abused her more than that length; Not because she couldn't take it, but because my arm couldn't; She was begging for more...
#9) She knows her way around the kitchen/food prepping tasks; Again, without fatigue for her light weight.
#10) The 52100 premium ball bearing steel made better with transversion-wave tempering into SR-101, when she does get a bit Dull, ROLLS -- instead of chips -- just like INFI, so you Don't need to re-profile the edge, but merely "put her back into alignment" with your Sharpener; or should we call that tool the "Edge-Re-Aligner...?" This means she will maintain her edge profile throughout your trip, without you having to outlay costly expenses mid-trip when that will be highly inconvenient, if due to a catastrophic edge failure from a knife that can suffer a chipped edge!
#11) There is a Super-Tough Sheath available from Scrapyard When You Purchase the Knife, that Won't break, rip, tear, or Let Go of the Knife Until You say so: Those Danny the Bull Sheaths are Tight! I'm speaking from the experience of having one for the WS-1020, NOT the DB-321: I made my Own for Her; but I can't imagine from the pics that look identical except for length, that the sheaths would have ANY difference in Integrity or Strength: i.e., Top-Notch. VIEW the mere 1-minute Video on the Scrapyard Website and if it doesn't make a Believer of you, come talk to me again: Bo knows Diddly; Jill knows Jack, and I Know Sheaths..!
#12) The Cost: We're talking a mere $215 for this piece of Life-Saving Security; Plus a few bucks more for the already made-to-fit Super-Tough Sheath. Or D~ Brown can make you one; Azura Leather Holsters can send you one; Several Sheath Crafters here on the B/F can make you one; Heck, I can make you one; but ask yourself How Fast do YOU Need this turnaround? Better bet to simply get a made-for-that-model Sheath at the same time: No Wait; No Fuss; No Muss...
If it were me, I'd couple that with the WS-1020; the 4" Near Trail-Point Blade, Also with a Super Comfy Resiprene-C handle, with Super Tough Sheath. (I say "Near" for it does have a "little drop" in the last 3/4" at the tip, a Great Design when gutting an animal to keep your wrist in straight alignment to avoid carpal tunnel or wrist bending strain or sprains under pressure or load; otherwise, the Edge to Rise Ratio is sheer perfection.)
The Pair can do about anything you'd ever need to ask a Blade to do in camp chores.
I'm about to revamp my whole way of thinking "Camp" after obtaining this Dynamic Duo: Batman & Robin Never Had it So Good...
With the lightweight 8+" blade, you can eliminate the need for a hatchet altogether; less fatigue on your body, and you can conserve your vital energy for other tasks. For any heavier cutting needs, take along your "giant splitter welded to a piece of thick pipe" that you wrote that you had over on the Axe, Hatchet & Tomahawk thread! (Yeah, I read All your posts, so I can get an idea of what you've already been told; Ha! I do my homework :- )
If I were a rich man, and Read Your O-Post, I'd just Buy the Pair for Ya, and you can take ANYTHING Else you so chose; just so you can tell me How they performed in comparison with whatever else you brought! Alas, I am not in that enviable position at this time. More's the Pity.
May You Gain Wisdom from your ponderings and knife-need searchings,
and Choose Wisely in your Matter Separators,
in Whatever You Decide,
Edge-Hopper...
OH, and since you Started this thread, you are hereby Obligated to Inform Us as to What You Decided!
And Upon your Return to this social convention we somehow justify as calling "Civilization,"
To Reveal to Us:
(A) How your Trip Went,
(B) Under what conditions your Blades were put through, and
(C) How your Blades Performed...!
Thank You in Advance...
One Last Thing: Have a Great Trip...!
This guy gets it, they make a great pair and are the current best bang for buck in this application.
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2014
- Messages
- 466
After being relatively impressed by both my TG and BGTG, the TGULB is.... well.... It's gonna end up getting some serious use! Still need to get my hands on a Jackhammer 10...
The "one big knife" I always go back to is my Basic 11. I liked it better than the Basic 13, or pretty well any of the other big choppas-- and it only takes a quick rub on a leather belt to get it tuned up after some abuse. The strop-ability of INFI is why I keep choosing to keep the INFI and sell off the SR101, etc., but like everything else it's a compromise.
My favorite "woodcrafting" blade is the SOB, followed closely by a Infi-Ratmandu from swamprat. The SOB being thicker with a more obtuse saber grind performs like a scandi without the total uselessness as a cutting instrument for not wood. The RMD is more versatile overall IMO, but I wouldn't feel put out having to carry either of them in the woods.
The "one big knife" I always go back to is my Basic 11. I liked it better than the Basic 13, or pretty well any of the other big choppas-- and it only takes a quick rub on a leather belt to get it tuned up after some abuse. The strop-ability of INFI is why I keep choosing to keep the INFI and sell off the SR101, etc., but like everything else it's a compromise.
My favorite "woodcrafting" blade is the SOB, followed closely by a Infi-Ratmandu from swamprat. The SOB being thicker with a more obtuse saber grind performs like a scandi without the total uselessness as a cutting instrument for not wood. The RMD is more versatile overall IMO, but I wouldn't feel put out having to carry either of them in the woods.
ferider
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2018
- Messages
- 14,957
Camping means what ? Will you use your knife for food, is it mostly for chopping, etc.
If it’s really general purpose, anything > 7” BL is too long IMHO, and - while I love my TGULB - the guard is not very practical in the camp kitchen sans Zombies.
I’d suggest one of the thinner 6-7” blades, Axe Hammer, Jack Hammer, SJTAC, or similar.
If you really like the TGULB, get a DS8 instead. Same blade, but lighter and no guard - more practical.
If it’s really general purpose, anything > 7” BL is too long IMHO, and - while I love my TGULB - the guard is not very practical in the camp kitchen sans Zombies.
I’d suggest one of the thinner 6-7” blades, Axe Hammer, Jack Hammer, SJTAC, or similar.
If you really like the TGULB, get a DS8 instead. Same blade, but lighter and no guard - more practical.
