Need advise on Wood Stabilize

Dick

Dick

Joined
Nov 7, 2004
Messages
366
Can somebody please knidly help advising me on Resinol process

http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT1244_TT_Automotive_Porosity_Sealing_By_Design.pdf


The following process still lack of some data


I would like to know the level of Vacuum
- What is xx Kpa that I need to vacuum the jar and how long time ?


• DRY VACUUM/PRESSURE (DVP)
This is the most complex vacuum impregnation
method. The cycle requires two tanks, one which
holds the sealant, and one in which the parts
are processed.
Process Steps:
1. Place parts in process basket and load into
process tank.
2. Draw vacuum in process tank to remove air
from pores of parts. (Dry vacuum)
3. Transfer sealant from storage tank to
process tank and submerge parts, still
under vacuum.
4. Release vacuum and pressurize process tank
with compressed air. Pressure helps to drive
the sealant into the pores.
5. Release pressure and transfer sealant back
to storage tank.
6. Remove parts. Wash and c
 
Very complex method sound s excellent though. I use to know the pressure but lost the info.
 
Burl Source uses this method in stabilizing his wood. He's both on this forum and on Knifedogs, if you want to contact him.
 
Do a search on this forum for Resinol 90C and you should get lots of good information.
 
Mike Ludeman at WSSI pressurizes to more than 1,000 lbs psi.

One question I have about 90C is, how do you keep the stabilant from running out of the wood before polymerization by heat?
 
What Chuck said. Our customers have come to respect WSSI as the best in the world. That doesn't mean they are the only, but it will take something BIG to woo customers from the standard they have come to trust.

Burl Source is working harding at breaking that barrier, but it's kind of like someone saying "We are at least as good as Paul Bos. -Maybe better." Anyone can do maple. Things like rosewoods and Thuya take some very special talent.

Open - and watching.

Rob!
 
Chuck Bybee said:
Mike Ludeman at WSSI pressurizes to more than 1,000 lbs psi.

One question I have about 90C is, how do you keep the stabilant from running out of the wood before polymerization by heat?
Click to expand...

When I first started stabilizing with the resinol I had a problem with a lot of the stabilizing solution bleeding out of the block when I was heat curing the wood. It was especially bad with buckeye resulting in a block that was too light weight and not hard enough. Pretty messy too.

I tried several fixes, but what worked out best was pretty simple.
At the grocery store I bought some vacuum seal bags by ziplock. After the blocks come out of the stabilizing pot I seal them into their own vacuum bags. When all the air is sucked out the bag holds the resinol in the block while it cures. After that is done, I just cut away the bag and clean up the blocks.

Doing this has cured my problem with the buckeye as well as keep the curing ovens from turning into a smoking mess.

I hope this helps, Mark
 
KnifeMaker.ca said:
What Chuck said. Our customers have come to respect WSSI as the best in the world. That doesn't mean they are the only, but it will take something BIG to woo customers from the standard they have come to trust.

Burl Source is working harding at breaking that barrier, but it's kind of like someone saying "We are at least as good as Paul Bos. -Maybe better." Anyone can do maple. Things like rosewoods and Thuya take some very special talent.

Open - and watching.

Rob!
Click to expand...

I agree with Rob about WSSI being the best. Stabilizing wood is a lot of work and there are a lot of little tricks to get it right. Every wood reacts differently. A lot like working with different types of steel. When people ask if I can stabilize their wood I usually refer them to WSSI.

I never did want to become a wood stabilizing company. I just do it so I can make some of the really unusual wood I cut usable for knife handles.
 
Thanks to every one here.
Perhaps there several alternatives or there are still some beter solution and also I should aware that the Stabilizing wood is somehow not easy for those who are not familiar.

Thanks again.
 
Mark, didn't you once post a link to where you got your stabilizer equipment? I've been searching the forum but can't find it.
 
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