Need an all-around knife recommendation.

How about a Kershaw Shallot with S110V plain edged, heat treated/rehardened to 64 HRC?

Currently the only "kink" I might run into would be taking the knife apart without having the thing blow up on me, and putting it back together again(sadly, the guy heat treating it doesn't do that as part of his service, so I have to remove the blade myself).

I partially took apart my Benchmade 943, but I didn't manage to fully remove the blade from the axis lock(not sure if I need more tools than just the torc screwdrivers to do that). The assisted opening torsion bar on the Kershaw would complicate things slightly IMO, as I could risk the thing coming apart with enough force to send various parts flying in all directions.

If anyone has any tips to offer in this regard, it would be greatly appreciated. It hardly seems to need mentioning, but I have no experience with this part of knife care.
 
Seems like 1095 would fit the bill perfectly if it was stainless. Sharpens up quick and fine, holds that edge, and tends to roll, rather than chip, which is great if you don't mind stropping it a bit. However, since it does require a bit more maintenance, what with the wiping down and the oiling now and again, have you looked into 12c27? It's wonderful stuff.
 
I was warned by Phil Wilson that tempering S110V to HRC64 will cost me some corrosion resistance. However, I can't make heads or tails of those confusing Crucible data sheets.

Does anyone know if S110V at HRC64 has more or less corrosion resistance than S30V at HRC58?

I'm also reconsidering the rehardening, as I'm not entirely sure it'll benefit me in any way. After some mild use on my Shallot today(cutting some cardboard, trimming 3 cases of corn by cutting off the wood-like stalk), I can't say I ran into much problems regarding edge retention, though the Shallot had a much higher edge angle than my other knives(18 degrees on the right side, and possibly 24+ degrees on the left side). I did some light stropping and got it pretty sharp, but it doesn't seem to push cut all that well. Add some slicing motion however, and it ends up cutting better than my other blades. I'm guessing the high carbide volume makes even a razor edge act like a micro serrated edge.

And so, I'm not too sure much, if anything, would be improved with 3-4 more points of hardness, and if it would be worth the tradeoffs(lower corrosion resistance, slight brittleness, oxidation layer that must be removed and polished for a few weeks, $60, 2 weeks turnaround time without a kickass knife, and possible screwup in putting the blade back in the handle). It's not like my job involves cutting 500 cardboard boxes or carpet a day, so I'm wondering if the hardness will help at all(I know I don't "need" it, but we're wandering into the domain of "want" right now).

I know people stress the heat treat, but I'm wondering if the heat treat isn't "just right" as it is for the tasks I have in mind(light cutting, trimming and cutting fruits and vegetables, possible use as a hunting knife in the future).
 
I would say a BM is a possible way to go.I own a few of about every maker named here and I like the BM's for their 'axis' lock and the blade takes and holds an edge.
 
Not to diss Benchmade or anything, but to me, they seem to be the "Sony" of knifemakers.

My 943 is certainly nice and all, but I personally feel that $230(after shipping) was too much for it. It's certainly my fastest opening knife, but the fit and finish doesn't seem too sturdy, as it tends to wiggle from side to side quite a bit. Tightening the screw to reduce the wiggle also makes it near impossible to open. The coating on the aluminum is also wearing away on any sharp edges on the handle from being in my pocket with another knife(so there's 2 knives in my pocket typically).

There are only a few Benchmade knives that seem fit for practical use(rukus, skirmish, and 760), and none of them are exactly "affordable" IMO. But for the most part, I consider my 943 a "gentleman's knife" that you carry because it looks pretty and impresses(or scares) your friends.

Spyderco certainly seems more like a knifemaker for the practical users when you consider the broader range of steels like H1(for saltwater work) and ZDP-189(which I would consider a cardboard and rope cutter), the full serrated edges, and the price range.

Kershaw is a new one to me, but I can honestly say that I'm shocked at the superior level of fit and finish(no wiggle at all, lock is quite solid, and didn't have any problems yet after I dropped it on the floor today), as well as the exotic steel in my Shallot, all for a mere $75. The edge angle grinds were a bit sloppy in that the angles on each side is different, but the same could be said for my Spyderco Endura.
 
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