Need assistance

Joined
Apr 20, 2005
Messages
1,045
First off, let me preface this by saying this is not a dig against Busse Combat. I'm looking for some honest help.

For the first time I was able to get my Busse ASH-1 outside to assist me with some yard work. I had some large overgrown weeds along side of the house, and used the knife to clear them. Unfortunately, on my first swing, I over did it, and the edge hit a piece of shale under the weeds. The result was quite surprising to me after seeing photos, and the destruction videos.

The edge took quite a hit. It also appears to me that there is a crack forming at the top of the damage to the edge. Is this normal for a factory bevel edge? I know a lot of users re-profile into a convex edge, but this is still the factory edge. I used my Lansky kit to try and repair the damage, which is when I found the "crack."

I have the full size photos available. Should I just see about getting the edge re-profiled into a convex edge, or is this something that Jerry and crew are going to need to see?

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Looks like a dent to me. That's what INFI is supposed to do. INFI has awesome properties, but it is not magic. If you hit a rock with a full force swing you are going to get a little dent in the edge.

In other words, I wouldn't worry about it!:thumbup:
 
If you have a loupe or magnifying glass, take a look through one of those. You should see metal rolled up hearths top of the damage. As stated in the prior post, that's what INFI is supposed to do.

If you can reprofile it and are comfortable, do that, but if not, Jerry and crew will make it right.

Some advice, though...these are great knives, but they can be hurt by rocks, nails, etc. If you use them to chop things against the ground or in places where you could hit metal or hard stone, expect the dings. On branches and other organic matter, these things won mt even blink.
 
No, as stated, the strike to the piece of slate stone was unintentional. It wasn't the dent so much as what I think/thought might be a crack.

I appreciate the feedback, and I'll have to see about convexing the edge. It did help me to take down a sapling that had somehow managed to root itself immediately next to the house, about 2" in diameter, with some batoning from an old piece of 2x6.
 
Sounds like you weren't abusing it so send it back to Jerry and the crew. They'll take care of it.

Go Vikings ;)
 
Send it in. . .We'll pour some scotch over it. . . All will be well!!!! :thumbup:


Jerry :D




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Awesome Job on Busse for going above & beyond.

I have a little question because I do not know.:confused:

When you get the dings or fold overs are you only suppose to use a ceramic rod to straighten the dings or folds back up ?

If you use a Lansky or DMT kind of sharpener doesn't it remove the metal so that you can not straighten the metal back ? Thus leaving a "serration" ?

Me I use my KMG Grinder because I am ok with the serrated blade :D


The edge took quite a hit. It also appears to me that there is a crack forming at the top of the damage to the edge. Is this normal for a factory bevel edge? I know a lot of users re-profile into a convex edge, but this is still the factory edge. I used my Lansky kit to try and repair the damage, which is when I found the "crack."
 
I've steeled a rolled edge on the shaft of a screwdriver :eek:

I try to straighten the rolls out on something non-abrasive first, and then hit the sander.
 
I've steeled a rolled edge on the shaft of a screwdriver :eek:

I try to straighten the rolls out on something non-abrasive first, and then hit the sander.


Top edge of a car window works great. Put the window half-way down and you have a rounded, tempered glass surface that will work like a ceramic rod! :thumbup:

Also, an empty Johnny Walker Blue bottle does an amazing job!!!! Just send your bottle in and I'll empty it for you and return the bottle for sharpening usage!. . . . I know, I give, I give. . . . It's what I do!!! :D

Jerry :D







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No, as stated, the strike to the piece of slate stone was unintentional. It wasn't the dent so much as what I think/thought might be a crack.

I appreciate the feedback, and I'll have to see about convexing the edge. It did help me to take down a sapling that had somehow managed to root itself immediately next to the house, about 2" in diameter, with some batoning from an old piece of 2x6.


E-mail sent:thumbup:
 
I thought Jerry only accepted abused blades :confused:


Hey...We always accept ANY Busse blade..if he is concerned about it we will take a look at it and make him happy:):)

and we are want to make EVERY CUSTOMER HAPPY:thumbup::thumbup:

cause that is what we do...:):) and we always will

Amy-0:)
 
I work nights, and when I woke up and saw the responses, I was flabbergasted!

Thank you very much to Jerry and Amy. I'll get it into the mail when I'm off duty on Wednesday. Of course, the Busse shop is in Ohio...I ought to just take a road trip!
 
just sharpen it out a bit with a mouse pad and sandpaper then steel it, simple as that, it is a knife and your gonna have to sharpen it sooner or later
 
just sharpen it out a bit with a mouse pad and sandpaper then steel it, simple as that, it is a knife and your gonna have to sharpen it sooner or later

sharpening is not the issue. I wanted the crew to look it over to make sure that what I thought was a crack, was not a crack. call it old habits, I used to look at welds for a majority of the day looking for cracks, so I'm just trying to make sure all is good.
 
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