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- Thread starter Lapp_Dance
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the $365 knife is supposed to work as a machete, which it did. I didn't inspect the shale that it hit, but I imagine that whatever pieces were left, have since run for their lives as the thought of another hit from the Busse.
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IMO I don't think you could have done much with the machete since it sounds like it was close to the house. I have several dings in my SHBM from hitting "stuff". Someday I may even care about it enough to send it to the shop for re-sharpening but probably not since it doesn't effect the performance
Just my .02
Bob
And by the way nuke41, mine cost a lot more than $20 but it's never failed me and I doubt I'll ever have to replace it. I try not to buy disposable tools
Sorry for the mini hijack
Jerry Busse
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Good news! . . . . We received Lapp_Dance's ASH 1 at the shop a few days ago. What appeared to be a "chip" in the edge was not a chip but rather a very tiny area that had been ground away by striking the shale. A chip would have typically been smooth and fissured like glass.
After cleaning and a high magnification inspection, what appeared to be a crack in the edge turned out to simply be a scratch in the middle of the ground away area on the one side.
Lapp_Dance did the right thing as it is always better to be safe than sorry!!! . . . . Here are some pics we took prior to resharpening.
Here's the back of the edge. The depth of the ground away area in the edge on the back side of the blade measured out at a mere .009" deep. For reference, 3 sheets of regular printer paper measure out at .012"
So, it was only about 2 sheets of paper deep into the edge! :thumbup:
This bad boy is being sharpened and will soon be on its way back to Lapp Dance for some serious lovin'. . . .
Let's Drink!!!! :thumbup:
Jerry
After cleaning and a high magnification inspection, what appeared to be a crack in the edge turned out to simply be a scratch in the middle of the ground away area on the one side.
Lapp_Dance did the right thing as it is always better to be safe than sorry!!! . . . . Here are some pics we took prior to resharpening.
Here's the back of the edge. The depth of the ground away area in the edge on the back side of the blade measured out at a mere .009" deep. For reference, 3 sheets of regular printer paper measure out at .012"
So, it was only about 2 sheets of paper deep into the edge! :thumbup:
This bad boy is being sharpened and will soon be on its way back to Lapp Dance for some serious lovin'. . . .
Let's Drink!!!! :thumbup:
Jerry
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Good news! . . . . We received Lapp_Dance's ASH 1 at the shop a few days ago. What appeared to be a "chip" in the edge was not a chip but rather a very tiny area that had been ground away by striking the shale. A chip would have typically been smooth and fissured like glass.
After cleaning and a high magnification inspection, what appeared to be a crack in the edge turned out to simply be a scratch in the middle of the ground away area on the one side.
Lapp_Dance did the right thing as it is always better to be safe than sorry!!! . . . . Here are some pics we took prior to resharpening.
Here's the back of the edge. The depth of the ground away area in the edge on the back side of the blade measured out at a mere .009" deep. For reference, 3 sheets of regular printer paper measure out at .012"
This bad boy is being sharpened and will soon be on its way back to Lapp Dance for some serious lovin'. . . .
Let's Drink!!!! :thumbup:
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you very much for this. The fact that you took the time to post this here reinforces why it's not just the INFI folks are buying. I look forward to getting her back soon, and I promise not to whine so much in the future!
:thumbup:
G'day Guys,
Jerry - on the topic of edge damage, i received this CS Busse FFBM (0.27" thick) from a HOG Downunder. (fully aware of the damage)
Does this damage look 'ok' / acceptable? (AND most importantly repairable)
(I do not know how the damage was done, but i can honestly say ive never achieved such results beating on hard wood, plastics and the like... no doubt this must have been the work of steel or stone)
I assume the steel has done what it is designed to do and 'roll' altho looking at it IMO it chipped, rolled and probably been 'ground' away all in the one incident!
The damage area covered a little over 1 inch of the blade.
I have re profiled the entire blade and she is 110% SHARP and perfectly even now but lets just say at home with a sharpmaker... it took 4 sessions (days) to repair lol.
(We've all seen photos online of knives that have been destroyed / abused etc... and honestly im sure this sort of damage is a complete walk in the park for a INFI but id just like to check)
Travis.
Jerry - on the topic of edge damage, i received this CS Busse FFBM (0.27" thick) from a HOG Downunder. (fully aware of the damage)
Does this damage look 'ok' / acceptable? (AND most importantly repairable)
(I do not know how the damage was done, but i can honestly say ive never achieved such results beating on hard wood, plastics and the like... no doubt this must have been the work of steel or stone)
I assume the steel has done what it is designed to do and 'roll' altho looking at it IMO it chipped, rolled and probably been 'ground' away all in the one incident!
The damage area covered a little over 1 inch of the blade.
I have re profiled the entire blade and she is 110% SHARP and perfectly even now but lets just say at home with a sharpmaker... it took 4 sessions (days) to repair lol.
(We've all seen photos online of knives that have been destroyed / abused etc... and honestly im sure this sort of damage is a complete walk in the park for a INFI but id just like to check)
Travis.
Amy-0
Moderator
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That's what we do...I sent a e-mail to Lapp saying that we would make a new one..HOWEVER...Jerry Busse himself checked it out and did all that good stuff and made it right...he has the mad skills...:thumbup:
Nick..
All good will ship tomorrow or first thing Monday morning....I will let you know
Amy-0
Nick..
All good will ship tomorrow or first thing Monday morning....I will let you know
Amy-0
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That FFBM of Travis` was mine and i only ever chopped one thing with that knife . It was a cane toad and i posted a thread here with pictures . Now from one small and not very powerful chop that damage was the result . Needless to say i wasn`t very impressed with the performance of the knife . I`m guessing i must have struck a stone after chopping through the toad but with only a soft swing i never thought that damage would be the result .
Not impressed at all , thats why Travis now owns that knife .
Not impressed at all , thats why Travis now owns that knife .
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Travis, I doubt very much that the edge is chipped. INFI has rarely (or never?) chipped, AFAIK. The steel looks rolled or derformed. Some guys have good results by steeling the edge with a smooth, hard steel rod to move the metal back in line. Do NOT use a grooved knife steel. The shaft of a screwdriver can work, or even the edge of your cars window. Between steeling and sharpening, over time, those little 'love marks' will go away.
Now go beat that sucker!
Now go beat that sucker!
Hey guys,
Again i have since re profiled the entire edge. Given the depth of **that** main roll, it took a LOT of work to bring the entire length of the blade down to that level.
My only query is when one removes say 1mm+ of the edge on a knife, would that be enough to effect the HT, toughness of the edge. Given the re profile was down literally over freaking HOURS on a sharpmaker with diamond stones ZERO heat was ever generated thereby not effecting the steel but ive never removed so much of an edge taking up the damage so i have no experience on any effects this could bring if any????
Jerry????
I do NOT believe this edge was a candidate for simply realigning the edge with a hard steel rod / glass / screwdriver shaft. The edge only rolled at **that** point clearly seen, the other marks seen in the photo above were chips or maybe 'grind' marks as per Jerry's diagnosis on Lapps knife. Realigning an edge is useful when it becomes a little dull and maybe when very minor damage / dings can be felt on the edge but defiantly not when it is this bad.
I have since used the knife on hard wood with absolutely zero evidence of use on the edge itself thus i assume there is no problem.
Another thing to note tho is the scratches on the sides of the edge as per my photos above... i find it amazing that something with the hardness of a knifes edge to scratch like that... They were DEEP. The scratches themselves took just as much work removing as taking up the damaged, roll / chips / grinds whatever as seen.
Travis.
Again i have since re profiled the entire edge. Given the depth of **that** main roll, it took a LOT of work to bring the entire length of the blade down to that level.
My only query is when one removes say 1mm+ of the edge on a knife, would that be enough to effect the HT, toughness of the edge. Given the re profile was down literally over freaking HOURS on a sharpmaker with diamond stones ZERO heat was ever generated thereby not effecting the steel but ive never removed so much of an edge taking up the damage so i have no experience on any effects this could bring if any????
Jerry????
I do NOT believe this edge was a candidate for simply realigning the edge with a hard steel rod / glass / screwdriver shaft. The edge only rolled at **that** point clearly seen, the other marks seen in the photo above were chips or maybe 'grind' marks as per Jerry's diagnosis on Lapps knife. Realigning an edge is useful when it becomes a little dull and maybe when very minor damage / dings can be felt on the edge but defiantly not when it is this bad.
I have since used the knife on hard wood with absolutely zero evidence of use on the edge itself thus i assume there is no problem.
Another thing to note tho is the scratches on the sides of the edge as per my photos above... i find it amazing that something with the hardness of a knifes edge to scratch like that... They were DEEP. The scratches themselves took just as much work removing as taking up the damaged, roll / chips / grinds whatever as seen.
Travis.
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How about a $727USD + postage CS Busse FFBM.....(Ganza Price)......
Surely for $727USD + postage one would expect a little better steel performance then a $20 machete?????
Travis.
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You'd be surprised just how effectively you can realign an edge on an INFI knife. I've straightened out some pretty serious rolls with a few passes of a screwdriver shaft. I've never seen another knife steel where I could do that.
I've also had one or two knives that, for whatever reason, seemed to roll really easily out of the factory, and again for some unknown reason, this seemed to go away after I gave them a good sharpening. This is far from a reproducible scientific test, but I've read anecdotal stories from others that had similar experiences. Who knows if this was real or imagined, but it's an interesting idea.
As far as sharpening deep into the edge, you should be fine - I've seen lots and lots of steel taken off of knives, and taken lots and lots of steel off of a few of mine, and they've all been fine.
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I fail to see why there is so much discussion or surprise every time a knife (whether it be Busse, Randlall, cheap Chinese or Loveless) gets a chip, ding, grind or roll after hitting a rock.
Basically all knives are made of metal of some kind, all knives are sharpened on stones which are designed to remove metal in order to get the edge back.
Why on earth would a stone in the ground be any different???
You can call it a chip, roll, grind, ding, scratch, love mark or what ever. In the end they all amount to the same thing, a damaged edge which needs repair.
There is no knife known to man that will not be damaged if the edge hits a rock. If you believe differently lend me your knife and I will prove you wrong
Basically all knives are made of metal of some kind, all knives are sharpened on stones which are designed to remove metal in order to get the edge back.
Why on earth would a stone in the ground be any different???
You can call it a chip, roll, grind, ding, scratch, love mark or what ever. In the end they all amount to the same thing, a damaged edge which needs repair.
There is no knife known to man that will not be damaged if the edge hits a rock. If you believe differently lend me your knife and I will prove you wrong
LMT66
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This is because you didn't hit a rock or nail like the previous owner did but didn't realize.
I've had 2 CG CBT FBM's and one FFBM. 2 were hard users and one just a little. The two hard users both went thru the same hard dead limb from a fallen tree that was just under 2 feet around in circumference. Both blades had a little rolling in a couple spots and a few dents and dings. I used a diamond rod about every 50 chops. 4 swipes on each side twice every 50 or so chops. Touches it up real nice.
If you want a flawless blade, dont use it. If you use it, expect wear and imperfections.
Blades are like cars..... they wear and need to be maintained. INFI is no different than any other steel in that regard. What does set it apart is that it needs less of it even with flat out abuse and that is the general consensus here from INFI owners. There are quite a few folks here that really use their blades hard. To some it is something they require to warm their camps, process food in some off the grid place in Canada. To others it is there to protect them in their line of work (LEO/Military). To some, it cuts steaks in the kitchen and looks pretty on a shelf. To most, it is worth the money spent as the Busses are superior to others they have had.
I don't really see the scratches in the picture but I see grind marks from the factory. Nice toothy edge.
Scratches are insignificant to me. just my opinion.
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Thanks to everyone who has taken the time to participate in my thread. Again, I want it known, absolutely dead-clear that this thread was never intended to be anything resembling a bash against Busse Knives or the entire Busse crew, to include Amy-O, Garth, and Jerry. They went above and beyond my needs for customer service, and I truly appreciate it.
As stated previously in the thread, my worries were put to bed, and there was no permanent damage to my favorite blade. I did receive my ASH-1 back in the mail today (Saturday, 7-25-09). If I didn't know better, I would have never known the Busse crew sent it to the spa. Turnaround time was faster than I could ask for, and the edge is better than when I bought it new. Without further ado, here's the pics I took, sorry for the lighting:
P.S. The folder under the ASH is my HD14 conversion from STR, which will be outlined in his forum here.
As stated previously in the thread, my worries were put to bed, and there was no permanent damage to my favorite blade. I did receive my ASH-1 back in the mail today (Saturday, 7-25-09). If I didn't know better, I would have never known the Busse crew sent it to the spa. Turnaround time was faster than I could ask for, and the edge is better than when I bought it new. Without further ado, here's the pics I took, sorry for the lighting:
P.S. The folder under the ASH is my HD14 conversion from STR, which will be outlined in his forum here.