Need guidance

[Ring]

I have the desire to make a new blade for an old folder that I snapped the tip off...

I was wondering if one of you nice guys would give me a basic list of steps to take...

I have no plans on becoming a knife maker.. but I have all the basic tools to do so except for the 2x72 belt sander (have 1x30 w/ some high grit sand paper) and a HT oven....

I have access to all the 01 tool steel that I want, plus lots of Simmonds files... But I understand that I would have to do something to the file to make it workable but not sure what or how..

I just want a basic list to give me an idea, I can look up details and figure it out... so something like this ( i am guessing here)

1. get blade to rough shape (all the way before HT?)
2. HT 01 to x degree or color for this long
3 quench in oil/water/Beluga whale sperm/urine from a virgin goat etc etc...
4. put in oven (i know u do that for a reason, cant remember the term either) for x amount of time at x temp..
5 file/grind blade to final shape.. (but if its treated, wont that be really hard??)
6. sharpen and assemble??

If you got trade secrets and dont want to list em here, feel free to email me....mooredocs at gmail.com

Thanks for all your wonderful advice..

 

[JasonSCarter]

1. get blade to rough shape (all the way before HT?)
Yes, Shape the blade leaving the edge about .020" thick for O1
2. Use Ceramics kiln to HT O1 to 1500ºF for 15-30 minutes, then cranking it to 1550 to...
3 Quench in Mineral Oil
4. Put in oven To temper at 400ºF 2 times for 2 hours each time, allowing it to cool to room temp between cycles
5 Grind edge
6 Assemble handle
7 Sharpen

Jason

ETA: drill all holes PRIOR to HT (during step 1)... your Drill bits will thank you for it! ... that is all

 

[SteelSlaver]

If you are replacing the blade on an old folder I would do this. I have replaced a couple folder blades with damascus copies.

Get good steel just as close to the thickness of the old blade as possible, just a tad thicker.
Remove the old blade and super glue it with the blade tip close to the end of the new steel and drill the pin hole. The hole size is critical. Get as close as you can without going over. Then use a small machine screw to help the glue hold the blades together.

use a hacksaw as close as possible around the blade profile leaving a long piece on the pivot end. Use the long piece as a handle. Carefully file and or grind the profile to match using the original glued on one as a template. The pivot is critical and I would the final very close with small files leaving just enough to finish off with fine sand paper wrapped around the files after the HT. Keep it cool so the glue doesn't fail and reglue as necessary.

If it is a small thin blade I would cut off the remaining handle and do the pivot end and grind the bevels after HT. If a larger folder, I would remove the old blade file/grind the bevels close. Then rebolt and glue the old blade and cut off the extra steel and do the pivot end steel and get that very close.

HT. If you use O1 and get the steel very close to final. I believe you could do the HT on a thin pocket knife blade in a stainless foil packet and quench it in the packet, if the foil was pressed to the blade well. I would sent you a small piece of foil if you sent me the size of the blade. Use the correct temps for O1 to harden and temper as above. If you don't use foil I would not do the bevels on a thin blade and leave a bit around the pivot area.

After the HT. Use a flat piece of glass, marble or steel covered tightly with sand paper. Keep the blade very flat and sand polish to exactly the same thickness as the old blade. This will be critical on a folder. I would beg borrow or buy a mic or at least a dial caliper. If you didn't do the bevels get some vise grips to hold the pivot end and do the bevels.

The hole and the pivot. The steel I used was fast hardening and the hole shrank a bit. I used a very finely tapered diamond file and twisted it in the hole, first from one side then the other to keep the taper out, until the new pin just went thru. You can get and use a small set of these files good enough for a few uses pretty reasonable. You also need to finish around the pivot very carefully. Again you can use the old blade as a template and install the blade and try it often to check the fit. If it is a lock back use a small square diamond file to work the notch very carefully to get the right fit.

Replacing a folder blade is very tedious. Go slow on the final fit and reassemble and try often. Good luck Jim

 

[Ring]

Thank you... Brings up a question...

The HT part for O1 bothers me..1500...I could get some firebrick and make an oven and attempt that way, but not sure about that...

Is there another steel that would make the HT process simpler?

 

[Ring]

HT. If you use O1 and get the steel very close to final. I believe you could do the HT on a thin pocket knife blade in a stainless foil packet and quench it in the packet, if the foil was pressed to the blade well. I would sent you a small piece of foil if you sent me the size of the blade. Use the correct temps for O1 to harden and temper as above. If you don't use foil I would not do the bevels on a thin blade and leave a bit around the pivot area. Good luck Jim

Jim, its a small blade..3" long.. its to an old Benchmade Leopard Cub.. Knife isnt anything special, but I had carried it for 10yrs and kinda want it back, but not bad enough to pay somebody...

So, in your explination.. I can get the blade close to final deminsion if I use a foil during the HT..I take its not just simple foil...

 

[Bill Burke]

Thank you... Brings up a question...

The HT part for O1 bothers me..1500...I could get some firebrick and make an oven and attempt that way, but not sure about that...

Is there another steel that would make the HT process simpler?

The heat treat for O1 is about as simple as it gets. one of the 10xx steels is would require less soak but it will require the same hardening temp(1500) and about the same tempering temp(400~500). Overall Jims advise is about as good as it gets. You could send the knife back to bench made they will probablyput a new blade in it for a minimal charge.