Hi all,
Newbie here, and I need some help blending the blade with the handle on a thick chef's knife.
First, what I hope is relevant information.
* I'm working with 1/8" 440C flat stock, and while I'm getting better at the flat grind, the area around the heel and finger guard - or ricasso, not quite the proper term - is problematic.
* I'd like the transition from blade to handle to be smoother - invisible, actually - but I keep getting severe, obvious angles.
(That grind, btw, was done on a work rest against an unmodified platen. I recently put a 1/16" radius on the edges of the platen and gained better results, but I still don't like it.)
* I also tried to blend that area free-hand with an 8" contact wheel. The result - a subtle, convex "C" shape like one might find on a commercial Wustoff - was better and a bit more pleasing to the eye, but I still don't like it.
Note: This doesn't seem to be a problem with the convex grind. I can slither around in the slack part of the belt and make it go away, but I'd rather be able to do both.
Second, some guesses.
* I should work with thinner steel. The transition from blade to handle won't be nearly as apparent if I use 3/32" or 1/16" flat stock. (However, I've got a load of 1/8" and I can't let it all become scrap.
)
* I should work with thinner steel - it makes a better, more functional kitchen knife. Roger that.
* Perhaps I'm wedded to a transitional angle or radius with the thick stuff? (J. Neilson from Wyalusing, PA seems to have accomplished this with genuine success as seen in the pic
.)
* I am somewhat limited by the 2" contact wheel I have on my grinder? Does a small-wheel attachment make sense or should I just use the modified platen to rework the finger guard/heel angle?
Any intel?
Thanks,
- J
Newbie here, and I need some help blending the blade with the handle on a thick chef's knife.
First, what I hope is relevant information.
* I'm working with 1/8" 440C flat stock, and while I'm getting better at the flat grind, the area around the heel and finger guard - or ricasso, not quite the proper term - is problematic.
* I'd like the transition from blade to handle to be smoother - invisible, actually - but I keep getting severe, obvious angles.
(That grind, btw, was done on a work rest against an unmodified platen. I recently put a 1/16" radius on the edges of the platen and gained better results, but I still don't like it.)
* I also tried to blend that area free-hand with an 8" contact wheel. The result - a subtle, convex "C" shape like one might find on a commercial Wustoff - was better and a bit more pleasing to the eye, but I still don't like it.
Note: This doesn't seem to be a problem with the convex grind. I can slither around in the slack part of the belt and make it go away, but I'd rather be able to do both.
Second, some guesses.
* I should work with thinner steel. The transition from blade to handle won't be nearly as apparent if I use 3/32" or 1/16" flat stock. (However, I've got a load of 1/8" and I can't let it all become scrap.
) * I should work with thinner steel - it makes a better, more functional kitchen knife. Roger that.
* Perhaps I'm wedded to a transitional angle or radius with the thick stuff? (J. Neilson from Wyalusing, PA seems to have accomplished this with genuine success as seen in the pic
* I am somewhat limited by the 2" contact wheel I have on my grinder? Does a small-wheel attachment make sense or should I just use the modified platen to rework the finger guard/heel angle?
Any intel?
Thanks,
- J
