need help choosing a bushcraft knife

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mrbushido

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May 10, 2015
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hello my choice is between these four knives https://www.lamnia.com/no/p/10844/k...asstrom-no-14-swedish-forest-knife-o2-micarta in o2/bohler k720

https://www.lamnia.com/no/p/10842/k...om-no-14-swedish-forest-knife-sandvik-micarta in sandvik 14c28n

https://www.lamnia.com/no/p/5463/kniver-og-foldekniver/kniver/enzo-trapper-95-d2-scandi-gronn in d2


https://www.lamnia.com/no/p/4474/kniver-og-foldekniver/kniver/enzo-trapper-95-o-1-scandi-curly-birch in o1


so what steel is the best for a pure wood cutter and wood carving feather sticking etc etc?

what is the difference of the blade steels?

please any help or experiences would be great thank you :)
 
There is not really a best steel for wood carving etc. There are a ton of factors in what makes a knife a good cutter though. Of the ones you listed, I would definitely lean toward the Enzo in O1. It is a proven great design, with a steel that holds a relatively good edge, but is also very easy to sharpen. I am not familiar with the Casstrom knives, though they do look nice. You may want to look into picking up a Mora (if you don't have one already) as I think it's a great baseline for how a woods knife should cut.
 
got several moras. and a esee 3 and junglas. and some helles and a spyderco gayle bradley in m4
 
I too am not familiar with Casstrom knives, nor do i own an Enzo - not my style of grind. That said, the offerings you are comparing are roughly "stainless" vs "non-stainless". A stainless Mora is some version of 12C27 steel, carbon is close to 1095. 12C27 is designed to be a tiny bit tougher than 14C28N but less wear-resistant. O1 and O2 are a little more refined than 1095 for good toughness and increased wear-resistance. D2 sticks out as much more wear-resistant due to significantly more carbides than any of the others mentioned, but it is likely to be much harder to sharpen on basic hones. D2 is also considered "semi-stainless" in that it will rust more easily than 14C28n but is much more resistant than O1 & O2.

Again, the differences can be summarized thus:

O1 & O2 = tough, strong, rust-prone, less abrasion-resistant, easy to sharpen

14C28N = stainless, more abrasion resistant

D2 = semi-stainless, very abrasion-resistant, relatively hard to sharpen (use diamonds, CBN)
 
Okey so then im thinking maybe 01/02 can get them in full flat grinds too are that better for fine wood work?
 
mrbushido said:
got several moras. and a esee 3 and junglas. and some helles and a spyderco gayle bradley in m4
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you already have several moras that are great for woodcutting and making feathersticks... do you need another for any particular reason? what will the knives that you already own not accomplish that a new blade will?
 
I would pick a steel that you are equipped to sharpen and have the patience to sharpen.

Some super steels are too darn super for me and when they get dull I get frustrated trying to sharpen them.
 
mrbushido said:
Okey so then im thinking maybe 01/02 can get them in full flat grinds too are that better for fine wood work?
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Edge thickness and angle determine the strength and penetration of the blade. Full flat grinds with a low edge thickness will be easier to sharpen, lighter, and MUCH better for making deep cuts/slicing... but they are not as strong if you will be carving very hard materials, unless the edge is rather thick. The "scandi-grind" tends to be much steeper at the edge so they do not penetrate deep easily, which can be good for a wood-carving blade/chisel, and that angle with a microbevel at the edge will be stronger ... but it will be less efficient at cutting other materials and require the removal of more metal to restore a damaged edge.

Personally, I prefer the design of the Casstroms mostly due to the handles, and I would choose those over the Enzos, expecting little performance difference in the steels.
 
Okey thank you. Yeah seams to get a little longer blade also for the money hmm if i win in lottery il buy every knife that is haha hate choosing i want em all haha
 
mrbushido said:
... if i win in lottery il buy every knife that is haha hate choosing i want em all haha
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We all hear that :thumbup: Whatever you get, let us know what you think of it, even post a review if you feel so inclined :)
 
I carry between 3 and 6 knives at all times. Because knives are purpose built. Like firearms etc., its why I have a .22 handgun/rifle and my hunting rifle as well in my bush / wilderness rigging


1. Mora companion (essential to have one or more)
2. Condor Hudson Bay- large bush knife
3. Schrade 165 DU - small caper
4. Army K-Bar because I frickin love mine-
5. Folder (misc depending)
 
Jupp will do getting one in december i think :-)

Anyone got some similar blades or got any experiences with theese?
 
I would suggest not relying on a folder as a sole knife choice however. Rather a combination of at least a folder and a non, (the modern full tang/3-4 tang crap is not nearly as necessary an issue depending on design and knife)

And DONT get anything from frost cutlery or gerber or buck these days...they have gone to crap
 
I got a spyderco gayle bradley i useeeee a looot for whittling and cutting down small new trees just bend and cut straight tru and the lock up is like a safe hehe

Of all my knifes only one im dissapointed in is esee model 3 cant get a very god edge on it and it wont keep one either
 
Yes it is worth the money, 3v is an amazing steel- hard to sharpen, but keeps an edge through anything!
 
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