Need help choosing a Randall

S

salmotrutta

Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Messages
7
New here, first post, so take it easy on me. I love good knives (and spend far too much money on them) but I am by no means a fanatic.

I'd like to buy my first Randall, and I am unsure about what to get. I don't have any means to assess them in person and have never actually seen one in person so I'm finding it tricky to judge size/feel.

I'm looking for a general use knife for hiking, camping, trout fishing. A user. If I am camping, I typically carry a small axe or hatchet so wood-splitting is not necessarily a need. When I'm in the woods I'm almost always fishing, so I'm around water (and live in the SE where there is plenty of humidity). I do not hunt (but would if I had more time and a bit of know-how). I do not carry sheath knives around town.

My current rotation of sheath knives that I carry in the woods are a Winkler II belt knife, a Reeve Nyala, and a Reeve bird and trout knife (now discontinued). I also have a ton of folders (sebenza, buck 110) as well as some lighter use gentleman's folders like Percevals and Chambriards from France and a mnandi.

In looking over the models, I'm initially drawn to a bigger knife, but in reality I'd probably be less prone to carry something longer than 5" (and really probably 4") regularly. I'm really looking for a useful knife that's a no-brainer to grab and go when I'm heading out.

I've been initially drawn to the #3-5, #5-5, #7, #26. The #8 is nice but I don't want to deal with the double edged issue as a "weapon." Love the #25 but seems far too heavy/bulky for my needs. I was initially settled on the $5-5 but it still seems like a large knife, and the straight blade is a bit ho-hum (forgive me, these are probably fighting words). Then I settled on the #3-5 for the classic Randall blade shape. Now I'm thinking these are too big, but then again all my other sheath knives are 3-4" blades already.

Any input would be helpful. Thanks
 
don't know where you live, but are there no outdoor shops? Around here, there are several places you can go look at Randall Made knives. It does not sound like you have any real idea about what you want.
Maybe you could hang out over at the Randall Collector subforum, and look at pictures, read the mail.
 
From what you say, the fishing knife in three different sizes fits what you'd use it for. Its a nice plain knife and probably the cheapest Randall you can buy.
 
The classic Randall is an efficient style. It is not a small knife but it is not a big knife by todays standards either. It is big enough to work for most outdoor tasks but not big enough that you think you could beat to death a Humvee with it. If you get the 5" blade and don't get the double guard it is just right.
 
By classic I assume you mean the #3?

With my propensity to be around the water, would you choose stainless?
 
I'm old and owned just about every model of Randall. I am too sick to hunt but kept my model 3 five inch, perfect for everything I think. My wife loves her 5-5" with compass and wrist cord. I use my model 7 for fishing and light work. The model 8 went to work with me. The model 26 is very handy. But the model 23 is small & rugged. I think a model 18 is necessarcy for outdoor emergency, But the model 15 was a good all round knife. Bowies are a classic. You need a model 1 and ..... ? I like ....................... them all !!!
 
Having had quite a few, IF I had to choose their best all-arounder, I'd most likely go with a Model 23.

If you're spending a lot of time around the water, stainless and micarta is the way to go...

Watch out! They grow on you... :D
 
If the price bugs you, conside a Blackjack knife as a substitute. They have about the same feel as the Randall they are modeled after. My fav is the 125 and it is a good all around knife. Maybe a tad large for trout, but certainly nice to have along. A much smaller slimmer version is made by Bark River called the Nomad which I have. It may actually be "too small", but it is a purty knife. It has the classic design and from my point of view sized as a bird and trout.

I kind of like the new Trailblazer (Model 27), the mini version sold by AG Russell with a 3.5" blade looks pretty cool. The 25 is also a favorite but I have the Blackjacks and consider them as good to use. My favorite is the Model 15, but it is not one I'd recommend for woods use. It is just a cool knife.
 
It's a big decision. I would research more and make a commute to a shop which has some in stock, or gun shows where there may be some. Blade show in Atlanta will have many to look at.
With a 5yr wait I would want to be sure it was what I wanted!
 
salmotrutta said:
By classic I assume you mean the #3?

With my propensity to be around the water, would you choose stainless?
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To me the classic Randall is the #1, but it has the double guard. If you want a trimmer knife then the #5 is similar but has the smaller guard.

If I was going to be around water, I would go ahead and choose the Stainless. And unless you really want to own a Randall, I can also recommend getting the similar Blackjack.

I have these Randall's from the era years ago when I thought I should own one. (I also have a couple of Blackjacks.)

DSC_7079b.jpg
 
^^^I have one similar to the no.3 from the top pictured, except with a stag handle.

Had it made back in '73. But experienced problem shortly after received knife - feel stag handle has a perceptible movement. It was never used, just fondled and put back in safe. Contacted them back in the '70s and again, had the itch, last month, both time they say: "there will be a charge, based on their assessment when they see the knife and they probably can fix the problem by first drilled out the epoxy from the back." I have no problem paying but just don't want them to touch it again. Having a better understanding of how it was made with a slimmed down tang epoxied onto horn with colored spacer separating from the guard, a combination certainly will be a problem waiting to repeat itself. I still have it just for the sole purpose of a reminder - not ever again, to buying a "survival" type knife, built in a bygone style/era.

My Randall was built in a conservative era, it belong there and then. But today, for a user, I would certainly look for something with a full tang and having a handle, from indestructible material, solidly attached to eliminate ever coming loose.

It was never that expensive and I don't use it because it belonged as a looker. I simply don't have any confidence to carry my Randall - if my life is going to depend on it.
 
victof, sorry to hear about your problem. I had a leather handle no 3 loosen up from the numerous swims I took while canoeing. I had a condo in Orlando I would spend my winters so I took my knife to the shop. They were very surprised at the handle problem. They apologized and took it out of my hands immediately and repaired it in the shop RIGHT THERE NO CHARGE. I think you would get the same treatment.

Each Randall knife is designed for a particular job IMO. My go to rugged user is a model 16 dive knife. I bought extra sheaths in the shop, the nylon, the waxed, and a C style leather. It is indestructible but won't fillet fish worth a damn.
 
My grail fixed blade is a #11,a 4in blade is plenty for me. I would go O1 but keep it oiled.
 
These are all helpful observations.

A Randall would be the first sheath knife I've owned where the tang doesn't extend the width of the handle; I tend to prefer this type of tang.

The #11 is a pretty knife. Is it sharpened on both sides? It does look a bit too hunting/skinning specific to me.

I'm still drawn to the lines of the #3. I'll have to give stag vs leather some thought.
 
sams said:
victof, sorry to hear about your problem. I had a leather handle no 3 loosen up from the numerous swims I took while canoeing. I had a condo in Orlando I would spend my winters so I took my knife to the shop. They were very surprised at the handle problem. They apologized and took it out of my hands immediately and repaired it in the shop RIGHT THERE NO CHARGE. I think you would get the same treatment.

Each Randall knife is designed for a particular job IMO. My go to rugged user is a model 16 dive knife. I bought extra sheaths in the shop, the nylon, the waxed, and a C style leather. It is indestructible but won't fillet fish worth a damn.
Click to expand...

I am happy you had your problem addressed.

My two long distance contacts with them were sort of testing the water, both answers were identical! Proved essentially, that they don't stand up to their product! Unlike my experience last week, with my William Henry pocket folder, it has, I felt, annoyed by three small discrepancies, called the company, they said: send it back and we'll make it right for you or we will send you a new knife - no charge! Mainland companies often rap us with shipping to Hawaii. So I asked about return shipping. William Henry said "They will take care of it"!

My understanding of mechanical construction were lacking back in my early years. I simply have no faith, today, with that type of construction method, when dealing with several material components, with their multi facet reactions to expansion/contraction rate and simply glued with "epoxy". Bear in mind, my Randall's handle became loosen without being actually used. Nothing more than enjoying the smoothness of the horn handle's finger grooves fit in my hand every night - then, I feel the telltale movement - very disappointed with its intended design to fill the fantasy, if needed, as a survival/fighting knife! Imagine, facing a Hawaiian Russian cross bred wild boar, I pull out my "Randall", all I have is its nice polished horn handle?

My Randall came with a little history from back in the early '70s. At the time, I was having a custom recurve bow being made by Mr. Ben Person. During my wait for the bow, in our many back and forth communications, Mr. Person told me he taught the son of the senior Randall on archery and could get me pass the waiting period to get a custom Randall. That was how my Randall came to be.

Its not all lost, sentimental value wise. Just like my custom Person made Marauder, certainly a thing of beauty - hanging on the wall - since I have moved onto more efficient modern compound bows. :)
 
I'm down to a #3-5 vs #5-5, leather handle, tool steel - basic model, really.

Still debating the blade. Really like the lines of the #3, but wonder if the #5 blade wouldn't be more practical.

For those of you who have used both, can you debate the merits of the two different blade shapes or are there no appreciable differences?

Thanks again.
 
I will try to help answer your question SALMOTRUTTA, BUY BOTH . :-)

The upswept point of #3 helps when you are pulling the hide back on the deer/elk. The #5 works better when you first start field dressing the game, cutting open the paunch. I use a model 3 and a model 7. I really prefer the model 7. .Same knife but a thinner blade. It is easier to get razor sharp and works pretty good on fish too. My wife doesn't hunt but camps and fishes with me. She likes the model 5 because it has a straighter blade. It's funny after all the 50 some Randall wall hangers, I am down to two blades. The model 3 & 7. I do sneak a peak at the model 5 though. :-) I will never live long enough to wear them out. The others are gone, and I really don't miss them. At 66 years old "using" is more important than collecting. Life is short and who needs junk for the wife to dispose of when I'm dead.
 
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