Need Help Choosing Wood

Trout Hound

Trout Hound

Joined
Sep 28, 2014
Messages
693
Howdy Everyone,

I recently found a rusty old Camillus Model 33 Easy-Open Jack that was wasting away on the ground at a friend's property, and I decided to see if I could give it a second life. I have since cleaned it up, and I was rather impressed with what I was able to find underneath. It is in fairly good shape, and I have everything polished up.

The scales are long gone, and, while it probably came with bone from the factory, I would like to replace them with some nice wood scales.

I am a noob at this, so I could use some advice choosing a type or types of wood that won't be too difficult to work, primarily with hand tools, but that will also be relatively easy to finish. I wouldn't mind having some burl, or something with some nice figure, but only if it will be reasonably within my skill level.

I know that to do anything well, I will need to take my time and pay attention to detail, but I just don't want to get in over my head.

Thanks in advance for helping out the new guy!
 
In my opinion, the wood choice is up to you. If you like darker woods, use a darker wood. Lighter woods? use that instead. This is where knife making is great; it allows us to make something unique and personalized using materials WE want. However, if you really want other peoples input, I'll give you my .02.

I personally like darker woods for small knives and I can strongly recommend Brazilian rosewood if you can find some. I haven't seen much of it here on the forums but I have gotten some from my supplier and used it several times. It has nice, dark coffee color when finished and doesn't require to much sanding to develop a nice luster. It is a harder wood though so I would recommend using sharp tools and fresh sandpaper if you use some. This goes for any wood if I'm being honest :)

Out of curiosity, what thickness do you need? I may have some extra laying around that is to thin for fixed blades, but perfect for folders. I may be able to send you a few pieces.


Here is a google image of this stuff-

https://www.google.com/search?q=Dal...ch&q=brazilian+rosewood&imgrc=49m_vprMBFDD-M:
 
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Trout Hound said:
Howdy Everyone,

I recently found a rusty old Camillus Model 33 Easy-Open Jack that was wasting away on the ground at a friend's property, and I decided to see if I could give it a second life. I have since cleaned it up, and I was rather impressed with what I was able to find underneath. It is in fairly good shape, and I have everything polished up.

The scales are long gone, and, while it probably came with bone from the factory, I would like to replace them with some nice wood scales.

I am a noob at this, so I could use some advice choosing a type or types of wood that won't be too difficult to work, primarily with hand tools, but that will also be relatively easy to finish. I wouldn't mind having some burl, or something with some nice figure, but only if it will be reasonably within my skill level.

I know that to do anything well, I will need to take my time and pay attention to detail, but I just don't want to get in over my head.

Thanks in advance for helping out the new guy!
Click to expand...

Make sure it's stabilized. Other than that look at burl suppliers. So far I've worked 4 different kinds of wood and none of them are any harder than another. Two of the burls I've used had small voids that needed to be filled after shaping. Get some clear super glue or epoxy, smear it in the void, and smash some of the sawdust in there. Wait for it to dry and sand it off and the voids will essentially disappear. Sand quick and smooth with the passes but go slow when sizing and eyeing. Other than that find something you think you may like and go for it. I personally think a spalted sycamore or redwood burl or something would be nice but that's my own personal taste.
http://acrichardscustomknives.com/images/knives/bladewestredwiidburlladderpattern.jpg
 
hellspawn415 said:
They certainly do not need to be stabilized if you use a denser wood.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1331164-Woods-for-use-in-Knife-handles-*updated*

This is something I wrote a little while ago, it covers about 60 different woods, many of which do not need to be stabilized. If you have any questions about that or want to find a source, please shoot me an email. Woods are kind of my thing.
Click to expand...

I actually stumbled across that thread while searching for something else, after I had posted this one. It is VERY helpful, and just what I needed. Thank you!!!
 
hellspawn415 said:
They certainly do not need to be stabilized if you use a denser wood.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1331164-Woods-for-use-in-Knife-handles-*updated*

This is something I wrote a little while ago, it covers about 60 different woods, many of which do not need to be stabilized. If you have any questions about that or want to find a source, please shoot me an email. Woods are kind of my thing.
Click to expand...

I was referring to burls because that's what the OP mentioned he was interested in. I should've been clearer. Are there burls out there stable enough on their own to not need treatment?
 
Right now I'm leaning toward stabilized figured maple for the ease of workability, since this is my first project. A couple questions:

If I want it darker than natural, then I need to get dyed stabilized scales, yes? Otherwise I saw something in another thread about using alcohol-based leather dye?

Does using dyed wood make me a second class knife maker, or anything like that? [emoji16]
 
I think the dying is done during the stabilization. No, using dyed wood does not make you a 2nd class knife maker - lots of 1st class knife makers use dyed wood.

Tim
 
or find something stabilized that's naturally the color you want. for the amount you need nothing's going to cost too much. hell some of the denser woods come in colors that look like they're dyed naturally-unless you want blue;).
 
Dyed (Backwoods Knives)
JE7iCJZ.jpg


Vs undyed (work in progress, Esee and ZT by me, blocks supplied by John Doyle)
4b9v9el.jpg

MLxhMJx.jpg
 
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agreed and they not only look nice but can have amazing hand feel. some of the densest act almost like a heat sink . bocote is really pretty as well and you might also look at bubinga.
 
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