need help from a milling guru - tooling plate

B

billf

Joined
Oct 9, 2003
Messages
1,561
I know we have many helpful machinist types here, and I have some questions about making an aluminum tooling plate to work on both fixed blades and folders.

questions are

1) what type of aluminum?
2) how thick should plate be?
3) where should I GET the Al?
4) what size should I tap the holes which will be used in clamping pieces?

Thanks in advance:D

Bill
 
I think the answer to most of those questions would be, whatever your personal preference. If it were me, it would probably be a 12 by 24 plate of 3/4" 6061, that I would skim flat, and add some 1/4-20 holes. And I'd get it from SRI, because they're cheap, I have an account, and they're right up the road. However I doubt much of that would apply to you. Sorry I don't know how to answer your question better.
 
I just had a fellow forum machinist make one for me,i'm awaiting its arrival.

A few things..,what size machine are you using? if you have a mini mill,you wont need an overly thick plate as your jobs will be fairly small. i would go larger then 1/4-20 threads. thats what i was going to use on my plate but my pal told me to use larger threads to prevent stripping.alu is soft and can strip with very fine threads.aluminum type does'nt matter much.6061 probably has the best machinability.

definitly surface your plate to ensure squareness to your spindle.
 
thanks guys -

the mill is pretty big (700 lbs) and is a square column gear head mill/drill

definitely not Bridgeport sized, though

so 6061 seems to be the type - I was thinking of like 1.5-2" thick, so it would sit up above my vise jaws - not sure of the max opening of the vise, I'll have to check that tomorrow. I have the vise all squared up to the head, so I was going to put the plate in there and then use a fly cutter to surface the aluminum.

any idea on Internet sources for 6061 - should I check local scrap yards?

Thanks again

Bill
 
Oh,your mounting it in a vise?? i would go with 3/4" thick,just use apallels to get it to height.
 
That's a great idea, I have some .5" thick parallels that oughta work!

now just hafta find the aluminum:D
 
My preference would be 7075 Al ( aircraft grade). It is much stronger compared to garden 60** variety. Over last few years I've been buying Fortal Al on ebay - this one is even stronger that 7075.

Go to ebay, search for "fortal", choose a size you want.

Every time I mill or turn it, I cry with tears of pure joy, such is the pleasure :) !
 
Hey Bill :) I have many different fixture "plates" for many different machining applications on the knives I make.

Something else you might consider is a tube like shown in these pics. They're 4" x 4" x ~ 5" - 6" L. ; 1/4" wall thickness and are the most versatile work platform(s) I have in the shop.

Honestly, I don't think it matters much if they are 6011, 6013, 7075 or whatever. If you go to a shop looking for tube, take whatever they are willing to cut for you.

I use them for simple drilling ops, working off the top ................

100_3948.jpg


100_3950.jpg



I can also work off the front or back .............................

guardnotch1.jpg


One of the great things about it being a tube is the fact I can easily clamp straight edge, stops, etc. for repeatable alignment, like shown here for drilling guard pins ..............................................

100_4048.jpg


Or fixture off the top for more complex machining operations ............

100_4335.jpg


100_4218.jpg


For the more complex fixturing I will usually add a tooling hole that I can pick-up with an indicator. This way I can take it out of the vise and replace it at will and easily have a repeatable 0/0 location to work from for repeat operations on different knives I make...................

100_4198.jpg


I have several of these tubes and have, over the past several years, worn a couple out. After they look like swiis cheese I cut another length, buzz a fly cutter over the top to skim it flat and start a new one ;)

Very, very handy !!! :thumbup:
 
Great pics and info David.

Billf, if you're worried about stripping the female Al threads, simply tap the holes big and install a steel threaded insert (male threads on OD, female threads on ID).

You should be able to find 6061 barstock almost anywhere: McMaster Carr, speedymetals.com. McMaster Carr also has the aforementioned Mic6. I can get you some as well.
 
Something doesn't look right:

100_4198.jpg



That's weird. I had always envisioned the back of your neck as a dark leathery red.
 
thanks so much for the help everyone - I have some ideas now:D

Dave, I really like the "tube" idea - now I just have to find some somewhere!

Bill
 
As usual I do things a little different but I have made several out of .500 "cold rolled steel.I also don't wear out screw holes or have to use heli-coils.I use #10-24 screws.Dave:)
 
rashid11 said:
My preference would be 7075 Al ( aircraft grade). It is much stronger compared to garden 60** variety. Over last few years I've been buying Fortal Al on ebay - this one is even stronger that 7075.

Go to ebay, search for "fortal", choose a size you want.

I agree, the Fortal is good stuff, all of my jigs I made are of Fortal or the 7075 T6 and I got all of it from Ebay.

Tooling plates for one shop won't necessarily work in another, (different ways of doing things) so get you a good supply of material and make what works for you. Good luck with it.
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