Need help mounting my new grinder!

SkagSig40

SkagSig40

Joined
Feb 1, 2001
Messages
2,671
Ok I'm at my wits end and need some help! I'm getting into knife making and I bought a Northridge grinder which is about 80-100lbs?. I built a steel pedestal thinking it would be perfect for mounting my grinder to. The darn thing rocks back an forth bad which is unacceptable as the grinder needs to be solid and can't move or it will mess up my grind lines. The bottom plate is 3/16" but it warped. I got that issue fixed but now the center tube flexes under the weight of the grinder and sways when I push into the grinder. I spent 2 full days(working through lots of issues) and $160 on the project and I have to scrap it as it is just not ridged enough to support the grinder properly. I'm already WAY over my budget and cant afford to buy all new steel.
I think I'll have to build a wood table to mount it to. It needs to be SOLID and put the grinder platform so my arms are 90 degrees out like in the picture. I also need it to be portable so how could I mount wheels to is so I can move it around but still be solid and not move at all when using it? It seems like such an easy job but it is kicking my ass and I'm at my wits end with the darn thing! Any ideas would be extremely helpful! Also how does the height where my arms are going to be grinding look? Am I to high or to low? Thanks!

Here is what I ended up with and still stuck back at zero:

 
Just add a few webs to triangulate the top & column to the base. Any three points determine a plane. They can be relatively light (1" square) and still do the job.
 
noseoil said:
Just add a few webs to triangulate the top & column to the base. Any three points determine a plane. They can be relatively light (1" square) and still do the job.
Click to expand...


The entire center tube is not rigid enough and sways at the very bottom and throughout its length. It felt super solid when I built it and pushed on it with my hands but as soon as I mounted the grinder on top it would sway all over the place. After thinking about this I think a nice dirty wooden workbench would be better.
 
I've posted this pic a lot. it's a Harbor Freight machinery stand with a piece of 3/4" plywood on top. With a coupon, I think it was $32. I added an axle and wheels to make it mobile. Hard to beat the price and it's very sturdy.

stand.png
 
You will need something more substantial. Here's the stand I built for my GIB. It has served me very well for nearly three years. Of course, it's not nearly this clean anymore.

Bob

Untitled by Bob, on Flickr Untitled by Bob, on Flickr
 
NC Biker said:
I've posted this pic a lot. it's a Harbor Freight machinery stand with a piece of 3/4" plywood on top. With a coupon, I think it was $32. I added an axle and wheels to make it mobile. Hard to beat the price and it's very sturdy.

stand.png
Click to expand...

What are the measurements on that? Thanks!
 
NC Biker said:
The top is 18-1/4" x 20-1/4" and max height is 32" without a top.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot! So the height is adjustable up-and-down? Or could you possibly take a close-up picture of how you installed your wheels so you can r so the height is adjustable up-and-down? Could you possibly take a close-up picture of how you installed your wheels?
 
Untitled by Bob, on Flickr

The pillow blocks are off the shelf from Northern Tool and the 3/4" bar has a flat machined on it to mount to the plate. Pretty basic but that flip ability has been very, very useful!

Bob
 
Okay, here is a bad photo, but I think you'll get the idea. It's just a 5/8" axle with 8" wheels. The axle is bolted to the stand using a u type cable clamp. There are 5/8" collars on each side of the wheels to keep them from moving. The stand sets flush on the ground and when you lift the front of the machine the stand rides up on the wheels. You can also see the adjustable piece on the bottom of each leg that is bolted on. This gives you three height settings 26", 29" and 32" and BTW, Bob's stand is much better, it's a freaking tank!

wheel.png
 
I would take angle iron and picture frame the base plate. I bet that is where most of your flex is coming from. Then weld more angle from the outside picture frame to the center on all four sides. With the current gussets you have it would bet it would be solid as a rock. If that base was 1/4" you would have probably been good.
 
My grinder is on a post. 5" square tube with a half inch Wall. It still bounces when I really load up on a wide inclusive grind. There problem isn't there pedestals rigidity but the single post creates a fulcrum in the center of mass. I'll only mount on a 4 leg stand or bench from now on. Get support right out in under your platen, or near as possible.
 
Yeah, I couldn't imagine mounting mine on a single post, I'm probably close to the 180 - 200 lb mark when fully tooled up. With my back in the shape it's in, I can't move it without taking the tool rest and platten off and it's still a bear to move.
 
Weld 4 angles from corners of base plate to corners of grinder base. Should stiffen it right up!
 
I don't move mine. When I get my 100lb propane tank filled I pick it up and put it in the truck myself without much issue. I couldn't pick my grinder and pedestal up like that if I tried. If I have to move it, the pedestal is on three legs and I just tip and spin it on one leg. But that's pretty rare.
 
I use the Harbor Freight stand like NC Biker and it works well for me. I'm fairly certain that Harbor Freight has 2 versions, one adjustable and the other not. Make sure you check on that and know what you are getting if you go the Harbor Freight route.

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk
 
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