Need Help Quick - attaching MB from ESEE-3MIL to an RC-4 Kydex Sheath

O

obsessis

Joined
Jul 2, 2009
Messages
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I am trying to switch out my ESEE-3MIL-S (with molleback) to a Blade Tech Clip and am going to use the molleback from the 3 with my old rc-4.

I am trying to fit the molleback to my rc-4 but am having some trouble figuring out the exact way to do it. Do I need to use the screws that come with the Molle Locks to fit the sheath to the Molle Back?

Also, I looked at the picture and it seems that all of the holes in the kydex are filled with screws. It doesn't depict which ones connect the kydex together and which ones go through the MB, though.

Also, what should I do with the extra screws for the ESEE-3MIL that I removed from the Kydex? Do they need to be used to screw down the RC-4? It looks like the Blade Tech Clip has two screws that I can use to connect it to the sheath.

Can anybody that has one this let me know how they did it? Which screws they had to remove (if any) from the unaltered Kydex sheath and where they got the screws from to attach the 4 to the MB from the 3 as well as which holes are designated for the MB and which ones are to keep the kydex tight. I currently have the top left and right ones with a screw in as well as one in the bottom right, along side the back side of the knife. I removed the screw that was in the edge side, second from bottom since it looked like that hole needed to be used with the MB.

I noticed that the kydex is going to go down about an inch or so lower than the ESEE-3MIL did.
 
It sits a little lower on the 4 and you might have to move some screws around. The holes only line up one way.
 
Do I use the screws that attached the 3 to the MB? They seem like the only ones long enough to attach it to the MB.

Some of the holes in the Kydex sheath for the 4 seem a bit bigger than the others. Those holes are too big for the screws that came with the 3-MIL. Do I need to remove the screws in the 4 sheath and re-arrange them? They aren't long enough, though......that's where I'm hung up........I'm assuming I should remove all the screws from the 4 sheath, figure out which screws from the 3 will go through which holes that line up on the MB, then attach the screws from the 4 into the other holes to make sure the retention is proper and then go ahead with the 3 MB screws that I have.

I think that's the way since the pictures with the provided literature show that all of the holes are filled with screws.

If anyone can let me know how they did it or if I'm right or wrong I'd greatly appreciate it! :confused: My girlfriend is on her way to pick me up and wanted to get it done before she got here.........or I'll need to pack everything back up and start again when we are supposed to be having 'hangout time'.
 
obsessis said:
Do I use the screws that attached the 3 to the MB? They seem like the only ones long enough to attach it to the MB.

Some of the holes in the Kydex sheath for the 4 seem a bit bigger than the others. Those holes are too big for the screws that came with the 3-MIL. Do I need to remove the screws in the 4 sheath and re-arrange them? They aren't long enough, though......that's where I'm hung up........I'm assuming I should remove all the screws from the 4 sheath, figure out which screws from the 3 will go through which holes that line up on the MB, then attach the screws from the 4 into the other holes to make sure the retention is proper and then go ahead with the 3 MB screws that I have.

I think that's the way since the pictures with the provided literature show that all of the holes are filled with screws.

If anyone can let me know how they did it or if I'm right or wrong I'd greatly appreciate it! :confused: My girlfriend is on her way to pick me up and wanted to get it done before she got here.........or I'll need to pack everything back up and start again when we are supposed to be having 'hangout time'.
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You use the screws that attach the 3 to the molle back to attach the 4 to the molle back because they're long enough. The short screws that are on the 4 sheath might need to be moved or even removed and set aside and the longer screws can go in their places. Then if you want to take the 4 off the MB you take the longer screws out and put the short ones back in the bare sheath. Make sense?

http://eseeknives.com/esee-4-instruction-back.pdf
 
I have the middle 4 through the MB

3996266236_33cd9dacbf_b.jpg
 
I'm having a related problem. I purchased the ESEE-4 but the sheath/molle back were separate from the blade/micarta. This means that you have the shorter screws that are already on the sheath which won't be long enough to attach the mb. Is my only option trying to find similar but longer screws at a hardware store? Or should the mb come with longer screws if purchased separately? Also, the holes in the mb don't seem to quite match up with the holes in the sheath...certainly not like my previously purchased ESEE-3. Not so sure I'll make another a-la-carte purchase. Live and learn. Love the whole ESEE series. And just stumbled across this site. Learning a lot...you guys have tons of great info here and loving my new affinity for blades.
 
santacruz said:
I'm having a related problem. I purchased the ESEE-4 but the sheath/molle back were separate from the blade/micarta. This means that you have the shorter screws that are already on the sheath which won't be long enough to attach the mb. Is my only option trying to find similar but longer screws at a hardware store? Or should the mb come with longer screws if purchased separately? Also, the holes in the mb don't seem to quite match up with the holes in the sheath...certainly not like my previously purchased ESEE-3. Not so sure I'll make another a-la-carte purchase. Live and learn. Love the whole ESEE series. And just stumbled across this site. Learning a lot...you guys have tons of great info here and loving my new affinity for blades.
Click to expand...

Did your molle back come with screws and nuts similar to the shorter ones that are already on the kydex sheath? They are identical screws, just longer, that are used to attach the kydex to the molle back.
 
adaman04 said:
Did your molle back come with screws and nuts similar to the shorter ones that are already on the kydex sheath? They are identical screws, just longer, that are used to attach the kydex to the molle back.
Click to expand...

Nope, no screws came with it. That seems like it would be the obvious way to avoid a problem like this...especially after running into this problem. Maybe they were supposed to come with it...sounds that way from your question. I called and they said it just ships without screws and that the screws in the sheath should work...but after he checked he could see that they were too short.
 
santacruz said:
Nope, no screws came with it. That seems like it would be the obvious way to avoid a problem like this...especially after running into this problem. Maybe they were supposed to come with it...sounds that way from your question. I called and they said it just ships without screws and that the screws in the sheath should work...but after he checked he could see that they were too short.
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I ended up using the screws from a bag of Molle Locks and they were long enough.....so I guess if you have them you can try to use them. I also moved a retention screw down....the knife is super locked in now.

The holes don't line up quite right.....you might need to bend the back of the sheath a bit to get the screw to go into the post. Once you get it connected and start screwing it in the post will go through and it'll line itself up.

Otherwise, go to the hardware store - 8/32 Oval Machine Screws (I think) in 3/8", 1/4", or 5/8" and then find some screw posts (also have another name). I was able to find Stainless screws (cheap) and aluminum screw posts to screw them into (more expensive).
 
That's odd that the MB wouldn't come with screws. You do have to put the nut on the front side of the sheath as Dizwolf showed.
 
santacruz said:
I'm having a related problem. I purchased the ESEE-4 but the sheath/molle back were separate from the blade/micarta. This means that you have the shorter screws that are already on the sheath which won't be long enough to attach the mb. Is my only option trying to find similar but longer screws at a hardware store? Or should the mb come with longer screws if purchased separately? Also, the holes in the mb don't seem to quite match up with the holes in the sheath...certainly not like my previously purchased ESEE-3. Not so sure I'll make another a-la-carte purchase. Live and learn. Love the whole ESEE series. And just stumbled across this site. Learning a lot...you guys have tons of great info here and loving my new affinity for blades.
Click to expand...

Did your ESEE-4 come with a set of MOLLE Locks? Those screws should be long enough to use.
 
obsessis said:
Did your ESEE-4 come with a set of MOLLE Locks? Those screws should be long enough to use.
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Actually, I ordered the parts a-la-carte and that's the one piece I didn't order. I have MOLLE Locks for an ESEE-3 but apparently the screws for that are still too short. I think I might go ahead and order them...good idea. I'll still have the problem of trying to match up the holes though...maybe I'll order another MOLLE back as well. Thanks for your help!
 
santacruz said:
Actually, I ordered the parts a-la-carte and that's the one piece I didn't order. I have MOLLE Locks for an ESEE-3 but apparently the screws for that are still too short. I think I might go ahead and order them...good idea. I'll still have the problem of trying to match up the holes though...maybe I'll order another MOLLE back as well. Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...

You don't need to order another molle back or the locks to get the screws.

They are common screws sold in almost every hardware store.

They are 8/32 threaded Phillips (something...pan?) head Machine screws. I think the short ones are 1/4" or 3/8"...bring in one of the short screws with so you can get a set that is the next size up (3/8" 1/2" 5/8").

The back pieces might be called screw posts or something similar. Bring that in too so you can measure the height against the other ones. Buy a couple sets to make sure you get the right size.

I found my screws in stainless and the screw posts (or another name I forget) in aluminum. You can also buy small rubber washers from the drain/toilet section that fit perfectly if you want to use those....i got some to play around with.

If you have any other questions, feel free to email me - the option is found in my name on this post.
 
obsessis said:
You don't need to order another molle back or the locks to get the screws.

They are common screws sold in almost every hardware store.

They are 8/32 threaded Phillips (something...pan?) head Machine screws. I think the short ones are 1/4" or 3/8"...bring in one of the short screws with so you can get a set that is the next size up (3/8" 1/2" 5/8").

The back pieces might be called screw posts or something similar. Bring that in too so you can measure the height against the other ones. Buy a couple sets to make sure you get the right size.

I found my screws in stainless and the screw posts (or another name I forget) in aluminum. You can also buy small rubber washers from the drain/toilet section that fit perfectly if you want to use those....i got some to play around with.

If you have any other questions, feel free to email me - the option is found in my name on this post.
Click to expand...

Awesome. Thanks for the info on the screws. I'll stop by the hardware and see what they have...got the ESEE-3 in the car luckily. Appreciate all the help. This forum is great! Can't wait to be able to post some pics!
 
Worked like a charm guys. And now that I really looked at the picture and re-read adam's post I'm good to go now. It's not gonna come apart at all now. I read nut and thought bolt! I guess the nut is more like a post but now I completely understand. Thanks!!!
 
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If you get a 3 or 4 with MOLLE Locks then the screws from the MOLLE locks will attache the MOLLE back. When you purchase a MOLLE back from us separate it does not come with any hardware. We assume you already have MOLLE locks or Boot clip which have the correct screws and posts. Mike
 
Got a 4 earlier this week, why are the holes about half way down a larger diameter than all the other holes? My best guess is to make it easier to thread paracord through when using that? Was there another design out there with a larger bolt/nut system that didn't make the cut?

T
 
Terrorbl said:
Got a 4 earlier this week, why are the holes about half way down a larger diameter than all the other holes? My best guess is to make it easier to thread paracord through when using that? Was there another design out there with a larger bolt/nut system that didn't make the cut?

T
Click to expand...

That's a good question. I was wondering why it was that way too especially when I tried to put the screws in those holes. They just went right through head and all! But I'm a newb so I'm just trying to figure it all out.
 
santacruz said:
That's a good question. I was wondering why it was that way too especially when I tried to put the screws in those holes. They just went right through head and all! But I'm a newb so I'm just trying to figure it all out.
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It cooks my noodle as both the kydex and thermoform sheaths share a great versatile design, I'm really curious as to just "what else" those holes where intended for. Flip the screw/chicagos around and it works, but WHAT was SO special about those TWO holes they had to be larger....?

T
 
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