Need help remembering an epoxy

G - Flex 650 is hard to beat. This is not the regular 2 part WEST System - more viscous. Pricey but goes a long way.
Excellent for hidden tang and full tang. Protect the edges of your scales to minimize the amount of clean up, if you care.

When doing hidden tangs I FIRST fill the cavity with J-B WELD or similar product and use that in effect to create a mold. I orient the handle to the tang and pull the tang out (I've first covered the tang with clear packing tape to minimize the mess). OK and expected that the "mold" is slightly oversized to the tang. At this stage, I have created a proper orientation, handle to tang, especially important when using an irregular shaped antler type handle. I then let the handle sit overnight while the J-B Weld cures. Stand on end as it dries. Now I have an antler or other handle with a "pocket" approximately the shape of the tang but slightly bigger. The next step is to reinsert the tang into the handle with the G-Flex. That finalizes the lock. Another overnight of curing for a lifetime of durability.

You can see I am NOT a knife maker/service provider just a dabbler in making knife handles. I may make it more complicated than necessary but it works for me. Just offering one method.
 
For hidden tangs, warmed up pops 30 minute epoxy pours when I want but starts to thicken up just when I’m finishing up with spacers etc.
James
 
I use West System G/flex 650. I really liked Conap, but when it got too expensive I switched to G/flex and use it for both full and hidden tang knives. G/flex is not runny like some epoxies.
 
Thanks to all for the valuable information! I'll take a ride down to the lake and see what the boys at the marina have in stock for West Systems. I'm going to have to at least try Conap again, too.

Appreciate the options based in experience. Thank you!
 
RayseM said:
Push comes to shove I'd be happy to send you some G-Flex fitzo fitzo . Won't cost $18.00 for sure.
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Thanks, RayseM RayseM ! I suspect the lads down at the marina will have it.

I am still a bit surprised at myself that the shipping charge stopped me from buying the System 3, but it just struck me as oblivious to the fact we are usually individuals working at a lone craft, and usually without a lot of bux. Get your product in some knife supplies, System 3, if you think it is special, where we can buy it without feeling like we ought to get a kiss, too. Too much compo to make it tough on us $$.
I don't usually do soapbox nowadays, but for some reason I took a silly notion. LOL
 
fitzo said:
Are you folks who use West Systems making hidden tang knives? I ask because West Systems came up here some years back and I went down to the marina and grabbed what they described as a sample size. May even have been a "repair kit", I get a vague memory. It was very thin, IIRC, and I had a difficult time with it running out the guard end as I poured into the cavity in the piece of stag from the pommel end.
Anyone have a tip? Wait until it starts to set up and go like hell? :)
I bought a kit of long-set stuff from Mickley and that stuff looks intimidatingly thin to me.
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Watch this .............................
 
Natlek said:
Watch this .............................
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Thank you, N Natlek ! I have only watched the first 10 minutes so far but will finish. I do hope he gets on to the topic of strength loss with % additive, as that amount of wood flour and colloidal silica seems excessive versus what West Systems says about the topic.
 
fitzo said:
Thank you, N Natlek ! I have only watched the first 10 minutes so far but will finish. I do hope he gets on to the topic of strength loss with % additive, as that amount of wood flour and colloidal silica seems excessive versus what West Systems says about the topic.
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Watch when you have time to the end..................cement is nothing without sand and gravel :thumbsup:
 
Natlek said:
Watch when you have time to the end..................cement is nothing without sand and gravel :thumbsup:
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Had you said, "Concrete is nothing without sand and gravel," and I would certainly agree.

Unfortunately, the video you cite, while interesting, describes using the epoxy in situations that aren't really pertinent to what we do. It doesn't discuss bond strength versus additive burden.

Mr. TechIngredients is a bit fast and loose with interpretations at points in his vid, also. To say that the strength of concrete is independent of the cement would be absurd, of course. Mis-mix the batch and see how all the best gravel and sand doesn't mean anything. Cement is a simple but technical mixture. Concrete more so. That said, it doesn't act the same physically as epoxy does, so the comparisons seem strained.

I would certainly welcome and appreciate any citation that would establish that epoxy was stronger with additives than without.

Thank you for the YT, N Natlek . I appreciate it.
 
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fitzo said:
Had you said, "Concrete is nothing without sand and gravel," and I would certainly agree.

Unfortunately, the video you cite, while interesting, describes using the epoxy in situations that aren't really pertinent to what we do. It doesn't discuss bond strength versus additive burden.

Mr. TechIngredients is a bit fast and loose with interpretations at points in his vid, also. To say that the strength of concrete is independent of the cement would be absurd, of course. Mis-mix the batch and see how all the best gravel and sand doesn't mean anything. Cement is a simple but technical mixture. Concrete more so. That said, it doesn't act the same physically as epoxy does, so the comparisons seem strained.

I would certainly welcome and appreciate any citation that would establish that epoxy was stronger with additives than without.

Thank you for the YT, N Natlek . I appreciate it.
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What I want to show you are different ingredients which can thicken epoxy and make it stronger for filling large cavity in stag then pure epoxy .
 
Natlek said:
What I want to show you are different ingredients which can thicken epoxy and make it stronger for filling large cavity in stag then pure epoxy .
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Ah, understand now. Thank you. Indeed, I was impressed by the number of materials that can be used as additives and their varying properties manipulated to achieve the different strengths/viscosities displayed. He kept saying "stronger" but it also seemed he was discussing different types of "strength", ie, shear vs rupture. He certainly demonstrated versions that would fulfill my needs.

The question in my mind remains: how much shear strength is lost when adding various types and amounts of fillers? One can intuit that manufacturers know these answers. Then it becomes a matter of whether they share it and if someone can find it.

Again, thanks. It was definitely interesting.
 
I would be interested in a light weight but strong additive to decrease the heavy in the hand feel of a epoxy filled stag handle. Long video but thanks for posting it!!
 
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J. Hoffman said:
I've used Acra Glas exclusively for 10 years, and it had always been great until the last batch I got. I noticed it was drying milky white instead of yellowish clear. I always did strength tests with my cup of extra epoxy from each batch and it always performed well. The new stuff does not have anywhere near the strength of the old stuff. I called tech support at Brownells and the nice rep told me they were assured Acra Glass had not changed by the factory, but he said they knew it had. He said they have gotten several complaints. They are allowing me to return my unused portion for a refund. I've ordered G Flex and will likely be using that from now on. It's really a shame , Acra Glass was a great product.
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Same experience here. White and weak. Got a replacement that was good. Next batch was bad again. And the next. Never again.

West systems here going forward.
 
I have found that when I need a weight saving filler, a good epoxy and micro-balloon beads works well.
Mix an equal volume of beads with the A and B components of your resin. Combine the two parts and mix well. Fill void and let cure as normal. Using a slow cure 24 hour resin is advised for strength and added work time.
Warming the resin mix to 100°F/38C to 120°F/50C (never higher) will lower the viscosity some and make pouring easier.
 
Final note:
Conap is a PITA to find.
G-Flex 650 it is. Stuff meets my same needs as Conap, except perhaps to be black when needed. Perhaps a little carbon black?
Thanks to those who posted. The assist is much appreciated.
 
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