- Joined
- Apr 28, 2011
- Messages
- 1,528
The most recent release of the Steel Heart (SH) series was the Anniversary Steel Heart (ASH-1) in 2007, which was in commemoration of the release of the original SH-1. As far as I know it came in three varieties from the shop:
1. ASH-1 CG - Combat Grade, meaning coated, 6.5" long, .32" thick FFG (Full Flat Ground) blade. A beast for sure.
2. LE - Satin blade, same shape, grind and blade length, .22" thick with an LE number stamped on it.
3. Skinny ASH CG (I think it came after the first two, not sure when) - .187" thick, same shape, grind and blade length.
The one that I have is one that came from a show, I assume, and tapers between .235 and .2" thick (.22" at the ricasso, possibly a one-off?). It really does have the perfect balance. For your purposes, I would get an ASH-1 LE, skinny ASH, or a slightly thicker CG variant like mine.
SHs before the ASHs include: FSH (Fusion SH,) HOG FSH (Heavy Ordinance Grade FSH,) MOASH (Mother of All SHs,) ZT SH, SH E(rgo), SH SH (Straight Handled SH) and the previously mention SH-1. The SH SH came in three different varieties, one with a different steel, one with INFI, and the BB SH SH (BB meaning Birds Beak which refers to the shape of the pommel.)
The most recent blade offering of the Natural Outlaw series was the Special Forces Natural Outlaw (SFNO) LE (2009). Before that was the NMSFNO (2008.) NM stands for Nuclear Meltdown, which is a treatment done to the blade where the exposed portions of the blade, minus the cutting edge of course, get blasted with ball-bearings, making the otherwise pointy edges rounded. In my experience, it adds a lot to the comfort of the blade when choking up on the spine or using the choil. The NMSFNO sports an 8.5" long convex beveled blade and is .25" thick. It came in both a CG and LE variety, the LE being satin, convex edged and stamped with a number (seeing a pattern here?) Before that was the SFNO (2004): 7" long, .22" thick FFG CG blade. I have seen satin SFNOs, but I'm not sure if that was an option through the store, or from a show or ganza. Many Hogs cried out for an SFNO LE model, and Busse listened by delivering one some 5 years later in 2009. The SFNO LE has a 7" long, .22" thick sabre ground blade, and came standard with fancy hand-sanded/shaped micarta. There were only 300 of them made and they were sold on BladeForums in a Ganza only to Hogs. The one I posted above has hand-sanded canvas tigerhide micarta slabs. Before the SFNO came the ZT NO and the NO-E. Again, I don't know the details/dates.
Many CG blades from Busse come with the option for a Double Cut Bead Blasted (DCBB) finish. From my understanding, the blade is blasted with sand or other granular media, leaving the blade with a non-glossy finish. I don't have any DCBB blades, so I can't comment on the integrity of the finish. I personally would take full satin or coated over DCBB for personal aesthetic reasons. Also, from what I've seen, DCBB blades get INFI dimples if not properly taken care of faster than a satin blade. I could be way off base here.
As far as handle options, it varies from blade to blade. Paper micarta is more true to color and keeps it better, while canvas micarta shows stains from oil, blood, etc. Canvas micarta can be washed very easily, however, so don't let the aforementioned staining deter you. I believe canvas micarta has proven to be more bomb-proof, figuratively speaking, than paper. Some blades came with linen micarta as well, but I don't have experience with it. I personally prefer canvas over paper because it has variations in color and pattern and think that use and staining only makes it look better, but you can't go wrong with either of them. Standard slabs are machined, but some blades came with an option for hand-sanded micarta, but I'm not sure which (see the difference above in my picture.) G-10 is also an option for most Busse blades, either in one single color, or multiple colors combined. You seem like you've done your homework and have experience with knives, so I won't go into the specifics of G-10.
The Basic line, Scrapyard Knives, and some earlier Swamp Rats come with Resiprene-C handles. Res-C is rubber-based and is impermeable to water, oil, some chemicals and does not lose it's resilience at temperature extremes. In my opinion it is great for large choppers for its ability to dampen the vibrations and make for a more comfortable chopping experience (just my experience/opinion.) It also lightens the blade quite a bit because there is less steel underneath the handle, unlike the G-10 and micarta blades that have exposed tangs. It really is the best rubberized knife handle material out there and you really can't go wrong with it. Don't get me wrong, I love my SY blades and Res-C is great, but out of all the handle materials I prefer canvas micarta. Check out this link for more info on Res-C: http://www.scrapyardknives.com/tech.htm
Check out http://Bussecollector.com for info on the predecessors of the SFNO, ASH, and many other Busse blades. You can also find more precise specs and if you click on the links of the knife name, there is usually a picture.
As far as why satin costs a whole lot more, it usually comes with an LE number and it takes extra man hours to finish. I just reread LVCs post on the matter. He nailed it.
If I've posted any misinformation, please feel free to call me out. I am just a little piglet myself who has been snatching up as much Busse & kin as I can over the last several months.
Best of luck choosing your first blade.
Last edited:
. I just hope I didn't give any misinformation. I've frequented bussecollector and hogcult enough to know everything there is to know about the knives I own. They are both definitely great resources for anyone with questions about a model. I'm glad I could be of some use around here. I usually am the one asking for answers. 
