Need help with bevel line

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Hunterarrow

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When I flat grind I have hard time keeping the bevel line straight. I can make a straight line when I grind the left side of the blade but on the right side of the blade the bevel line tends to rise up near the ricasso. What am i doing wrong to cause this? Any tips? Thank you!
 
I'm no expert at grinding, but when you are first touching the blade back on the belt to make another grind pass, start around the center of the blade, and then move it back to the plunge line and then back to the tip. A lot of people have this problem when they try to correct their grind line and keep starting their grinding passes right on the ricasso/plunge line, which ends up taking off more steel there because you alsotend to keep the blade there longer while lining the belt back up with the plunge line. That's my $0.02 :)

-Paul
www.youtube.com/Lsubslimed
 
There can be a few reasons for this?
Look at the edges of the flat platen and make sure they are the same. Flaten your platen on a 4 x 6" sander.

Most importantly, I am right handed. So I do the left hand side first and then match the grind on the right handed side.

You can pre-cut in your plunge lines with a chainsaw file or buy a carbide File guide from Bruce Bump.
 
By bevel line are you talking about the line across the top of the blade near the spine? Or are you talking about the plunge line? One of the main reasons the line across the top of the spine isn't straight is because you didn't pull it straight across the platen. If you cant the blade up or down you will change the angle of the line. I am right handed and always start on pulling the knife across the platen toward my left hand. As was said it is better to grind on your weak side first to make it easier to match with your strong side.
 
Most of us have to "compensate" for the fact that we have "two" hands and arms. If your right hand dominate, that will be the easiest side and less of a challenge in giving you the results your looking for. It takes some time for your body to adjust, bringing the non dominate side up to the level of the other. Its somewhat like learning to write with your off hand.
If your getting a push up, on the grind line on one side, adjust your technique. As mentioned above make contact with the belt farther along the bevel towards the tip; then move toward the plunge. Nothing says you have to grind all the way to the plunge. Your controlling the grind. A blade that is going to have distal taper is much easier to grind if you grind in the distal taper "before" the bevels are ground. Doing this eliminates the need to remove different amounts of steel along the bevel. Using a file guide will even the plunge lines but will do little for the height of the grind lines; thats about belt pressure at the right spot on the bevel.
From the first time the blade blank touches the belt, "keep the grind lines even and equal side to side. Its much easier to do this than it is to correct it later on in the grind. Check out the videos on the Bubble Jig site, theres a lot of useful information on this subject.
Happy grinding, Fred
 
Like the others have said, Use a carbide faced file guide to work the plunge area (either before you grind using files or on the belt). Start away from the plunge. Move towards the plunge with just enough pressure to feel the blade rest flatly against the belt. Move in towards the plunge and apply a little pressure. Move across the belt with an even pressure and pace. Don't run the tip off the belt. Lift the tip off the belt when it gets near the center of the belt. As has been said, grind your week hand side first. You can match that grind with your strong side hand, the one you have better control with. If you are getting a line that is rising you may be dropping your shoulder. Pay attention to what your body is doing. Many people prefer to lock their arms by their sides and move across the belt using their legs. This helps to keep upper body movement to a minimum. If you are relying on your upper body with all its moveable joints to give you precise control, you have a challenge. Your back, shoulders and arms all have joints that have to be controlled to get repeatable results. If you keep your upper body relatively motionless and just use shifting weight on your legs to move your upper body like a shuttle you get less areas of possible movement to influence your grind. Go slowly. Nothing says you have to hog off all that metal in a few strokes. Take a look at the blade every couple of strokes to see what you are doing. Don't get discouraged. This stuff isn't easy. It takes a lot of practice. Practice on scrap if you don't want to risk ruining a knife you care about. Also, it is helpful if you have a line to meet. If you aren't already doing so, try scribing or drawing a line on both sides of the blade to which you will grind. As your grind gets closer to the line you can tell where you need to remove more metal and where you need to go easy. If you are getting a rising line by the ricasso you may be using too much pressure there or spending too much time in that area. Grind lines are about pressure and time. Even pressure and even time should get you even lines. If one part of your line is getting higher than another it is probably getting more time or pressure or both than another part of the line. You can remove more metal if you need to but you can't put it back. Go slowly until you get the hang of it.
 
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Lots of good advice.

Also keep this in mind while grinding. While holding the tang be sure you have your thumb in the center of the tang when you grind both sides. This will help you stay consistent. Also when you grind the bevel lock your elbows into your sides and move your trunk to grind... not your arms.

Make your body a machine and repeat the grip, stance and body motion the same while grinding both sides

Good luck
 
Thank you so much! Yes, I'm talking about the line across the top of the blade near the spine. Great advices here. Looking forward to grind my next one.
 
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