Need help with Blade alignment problems with my ZT0566

wade7575

wade7575

Joined
Apr 3, 2013
Messages
1,105
I have been having a problem with my ZT 0566 and the blade not aligning properly ever since the Torsion bar broke and I installed the new one ZT sent me.

The problem is the blade wants to be to far over on the right if you look at the picture and where the tip is,if I tighten the screw is at the top end of the knife that the blade rotates on it will move the blade to center dead on but then the blade is very hard to open.To get it to open some what smoothly I have to have the blade where it is in the picture and it still feels like there's some friction and does not open as fast as it did when I got it,I have lubed it with Benchmade Bluelube and it did wonders for my ZT 0560 and it opens at least twice as good from when I first got it so I know it's got nothing to do with the lube I'm using.


 
You can try the folded paper trick. In a nutshell:

1. Loosen the pivot screw and all the handle screws (should be very loose, but no need to disassemble)
2. Wedge a piece of paper between the blade and handle scale to push the blade in the direction you want (in your case, on the non-locking scale)
3. Tighten the pivot screw so it's very tight (should be too tight to open the knife)
4. Tighten the handle screws (just enough to be secure - don't overtighten - use some threadlocker if you find the screws slipping)
5. Remove the paper, and loosen the pivot screw slowly until the knife opens smoothly
 
I've used this method on several knives, with a decent degree of success. The knives that this method seems to do the poorest with IME have all had SS liners. Don't know why that would matter, just my experience.

Let us know how it works out for you. And :thumbup: with the thread lock; the more screws get messed with post factory, the greater the risk of loosening with normal use. Learned this the hard way after loosing a few screws. Er, my knife... :D
 
wade7575 said:
I have been having a problem with my ZT 0566 and the blade not aligning properly ever since the Torsion bar broke and I installed the new one ZT sent me.
Click to expand...

If you don't mind me asking, how did you break your torsion bar? Is this a common event with framelocks?
 
EDCanAdamas said:
If you don't mind me asking, how did you break your torsion bar? Is this a common event with framelocks?
Click to expand...

In this case, he's referring to the assisted opening mechanism that Kershaw/ZT uses. Inside the non-locking side, there is a small metal bar, the "torsion bar." The way it connects to the blade and handle creates the spring force to open the knife. I think you have it confused with the lock bar. Not to worry: no unsafe knives were created in the making of this thread.

But if you were really wondering about whether Speedsafe tends to break more with framelocks, I don't think it's just a framelock thing. Speedsafe will occasionally fail.
 
annasoH323 said:
In this case, he's referring to the assisted opening mechanism that Kershaw/ZT uses. Inside the non-locking side, there is a small metal bar, the "torsion bar." The way it connects to the blade and handle creates the spring force to open the knife. I think you have it confused with the lock bar. Not to worry: no unsafe knives were created in the making of this thread.

But if you were really wondering about whether Speedsafe tends to break more with framelocks, I don't think it's just a framelock thing. Speedsafe will occasionally fail.
Click to expand...

Oops. Got the two terms confused. Rookie mistake. Too many days of carrying axis locks I guess. :D
 
I was having almost the exact same issue with my 0566. The detent was too strong, or the torsion bar was out of whack, or something, In any event, in order for the knife to deploy in what I thought was an acceptable way, I had to loosen the pivot so much that the blade centering went to hell. It's on the way to ZT for them to check out. I'll be interested to see what the result is.
 
I had the same problem and after a while ZT had it back to me fixed up quite well. It was perfect in its centering.
 
The Torsion Bars just brake after time,I called ZT and asked them to send me a new one and they sent me a bunch of extra screws 3 pocket clips and 5 torsion bars,the only thing I did not get where the pivot screws and the shims.
I planned on getting extra screw's from them anyway,I know from year's of building RC Cars that these thing's strip over time do to their small size,I recommend Wiha Torx drivers as they are about the best you will find,I will not use an L wrench on anything small like these screws as the metal they are made from is softer then the screw's and the problem is when the wrench start's to deform everytime you use that wrench it transfers that defect into the screw head and cause's it to strip out,I have always found the harder the tip the longer the wrench and screw will last.

EDCanAdamas said:
If you don't mind me asking, how did you break your torsion bar? Is this a common event with framelocks?
Click to expand...
 
Question here, so I don't have to start a new thread. I've been carrying Kershaw for years. Most recently a blackout and a blur. I decided to upgrade to a 566 when I found a smokin deal on one. My kershaws would really snap open with a light touch. The ZT requires manual pressure most of the way open. Its smooth and easy, but the spring never really feels like it takes over. Gotta admit I miss that that snap, and might go back to my blur for EDC. ISs this lack of "assist" normal? Or should I be getting more?

I'm also having the centering issue, so I'll give that paper trick a shot.
 
I would send it in to be repaired,I know mine will only flip open really fast if I loosen the bolt to the point that the blade is almost touching the frame.I have seen many threads where people sent in their ZT and it always get's fixed right the first time,I think the problem with mine and yours is that the frame is pinching the blade to tightly.

I know my ZT 0566 and 0560 both work a lot better after I used Bench Made Blue Lube,my 0560 works a lot better then it did when it was new.I found that it helped a little with my 0566 but not a lot and that's because the blade is being pinched to tightly,I did notice however that I put one drop of Blue Lube in the hole on the frame locking bar it helped there the most and I think that's because the bell is in contact with the blade when it is opened and the ball is a tight fit,I would get some Blue Lube as well and only use it as a lube as it really sucks at stopping rust,but I find the ny oi that is made for a lube rarely works well at stopping rust.

blue109 said:
Question here, so I don't have to start a new thread. I've been carrying Kershaw for years. Most recently a blackout and a blur. I decided to upgrade to a 566 when I found a smokin deal on one. My kershaws would really snap open with a light touch. The ZT requires manual pressure most of the way open. Its smooth and easy, but the spring never really feels like it takes over. Gotta admit I miss that that snap, and might go back to my blur for EDC. ISs this lack of "assist" normal? Or should I be getting more?

I'm also having the centering issue, so I'll give that paper trick a shot.
Click to expand...
 
flarp said:
You can try the folded paper trick. In a nutshell:

1. Loosen the pivot screw and all the handle screws (should be very loose, but no need to disassemble)
2. Wedge a piece of paper between the blade and handle scale to push the blade in the direction you want (in your case, on the non-locking scale)
3. Tighten the pivot screw so it's very tight (should be too tight to open the knife)
4. Tighten the handle screws (just enough to be secure - don't overtighten - use some threadlocker if you find the screws slipping)
5. Remove the paper, and loosen the pivot screw slowly until the knife opens smoothly
Click to expand...
Great trick thanx, had a couple cheap kershaws cryo and thermite and s30v blur that this perfectly centered all 3. Thanx again.
 
I just de-assisted my knife and when I put everything back together, I'm also having this issue... When the pivot screw is as tight as possible, it is centered, but then I can't open the knife. When the pivot screw a bit looser so I can open the knife easily, the blade touches the liner on the G-10 side when closed.

Will have to give that paper trick a try later.
 
Paper trick didn't seem to work for me. Only centered when fully tight. Soon as I crack it loose it creeps to the G10 side. Its not touching so no biggie, I'm just not impressed with the assist. Its the reason I bought a ZT.
 
So I tried the paper trick as well (I actually used a plastic gift card instead) and it didn't really help. Even tried leaving the gift card wedged between the blade and liner while loosening the pivot screw. Is it the frame lock that is causing the blade to be pushed to the side?
 
blue109 said:
Paper trick didn't seem to work for me. Only centered when fully tight. Soon as I crack it loose it creeps to the G10 side. Its not touching so no biggie, I'm just not impressed with the assist. Its the reason I bought a ZT.
Click to expand...

How long have you had your knife? I have had mine about 3 weeks and while I de-assisted it right away, it really took about a week of playing around opening and closing it before it got to the point where I am happy with it. It's a heavier, beefier blade than the blur and blackout and my experience with Kershaw/ZT so far (quite limited compared to others) is that their Speedsafe speed somewhat depends on the beefiness of the blade. My Leek opens the fastest of all my Kershaws, then my blurs, and lastly my Tremor, Piston and the 566 before I deassisted it. Give it some time, and if youre not happy with it still then hit up Kershaw. They have a first rate customer service department.

Ryu_GTX said:
So I tried the paper trick as well (I actually used a plastic gift card instead) and it didn't really help. Even tried leaving the gift card wedged between the blade and liner while loosening the pivot screw. Is it the frame lock that is causing the blade to be pushed to the side?
Click to expand...

Ive done this twice now on my 566. At first when I deassisted it, and again when I spilled some pop on it and took it apart for cleaning just today. I don't use the paper, I just push the blade towards the locking scale as I tighten the screws and have had good luck both times? One thing I will say is that opening the 566 took me a little while to develop a technique that didn't pinch the lockbar so much that it hindered the opening. That was my first framelock so maybe thats not an issue with you, but it was for me. Either way, the lockbar shouldn't be pushing your blade noticably off center.
 
I've had it about 2 Weeks now, but I've seriously spent entire days just opening and closing it. It runs smooth, I just miss that ZING I get from my blur. My friend has an auto BM that springs open nice, so I was expecting similar results. I still love the knife, and if this is how it is, I'm ok with it. Just wanted to be sure it's normal and not just a problem with my knife.
 
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