Need help with makers mark etching problem

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Nov 28, 2014
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I am getting a little frustrated and need some help. I keep getting some blotchy smudge looking marks around my makers mark. If you look down and to the left you can see what I'm talking about. You have to hold it in the light at the right angle to see it. This is Cpm154. I am using etching solution from trugrit and an atlas mini etcher. I upgraded the q-tips to a Lectroetch pad. I'm guessing it's bleeding through or something. I'm also using masking tape. Maybe a different tape?
 
I prefer scotch tape for etching. I think it seals better and is also see through so you can see any issues as they may be happening.
I also do things a bit backwards from most. I etch my mark before I put on the handles. I think it easier to fix any issues without the handles in the way.

Chris
 
I will be etching first from now on. I used to use scotch tape and never had any problems before. I will get some and give it another go.
I prefer scotch tape for etching. I think it seals better and is also see through so you can see any issues as they may be happening.
I also do things a bit backwards from most. I etch my mark before I put on the handles. I think it easier to fix any issues without the handles in the way.

Chris
 
I have the same trouble. I am using the blue painters tape, but will try scotch.
I etch before handles, and am etching after 400 grit. Then I go to 600 and 1000. This can wash out the black a bit though, so still trying to figure it out to get it just right. :|

Good post. Looking forward to more advice on this too.
 
I have found that if I have too much etching solution I will get haze. When I do get haze rubbing with Flitz has removed it. Also resanding will remove it.
 
I use black electrical tape and get good results. I've also found I get less ghosting and a better etch swiping my pad across the stencil instead of pressing straight down.
 
I also use electrical tape, then wipe the mark with Mother's mag polish when I'm done. This gets rid of any slight haze around the mark. I don't grind or sand the blade at all after etching.
 
It's not a haze around the mark. Look to the bottom left of the mark and you can see what I'm talking about.
 
It's not a haze around the mark. Look to the bottom left of the mark and you can see what I'm talking about.
What was over the area in question when you etched it, tape, stencil? What ever was there is your culprit.
 
Try a little Bark Keepers Friend. I have been amazed at the spots it will make disappear. Wipe down the entire blade with it.
 
Try using electrical or Scotch tape...I like Scotch and clean around the etch with a spray of Windex. Wait a few minutes and wash in mild dishwashing liquid and soft cloth. Your etch looks good. If you have a switch on your machine for "mark" you can get the etch filled with black in only seconds. Practice your etch on a piece of sanded scrap of the blade steel you are using. Larry

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I have used the new blue painters tape...and got same result.
I think there is something acidic in the adhesive. ( they all went to a be formula of adhesive so you don't get bleed thru on paint... For better paint lines.
Acetone would not even remove.
But it did sand out.
I use the electro etcher and can't get it to Mark without burning my stencil.
So I hit it with lacquer paint and sand again.
 
I have found the best results like others have said to spray it with windex, apply stencil and swipe across the stencil multiple times instead of holding it on for a 3 second count. Also I soak the etching pad with solution then press it on to a paper towel multiple times to get excess etching solution off the pad.
 
Windex is the answer. Used to get the exact same anomaly until I started spraying Windex under the stencil before taping down. Also, I spray Windex immediately after the etch is done. Put pad down, unhook the positive lead immediately first, then hose everything down with Windex. Using Blue painters tape. The Windex acts as a counter to the etch solution.
 
I made a frame from kydex - it is 2x2" with a rectangular cut-out for the marking head. The stencil is adhered to the frame with silicone caulk. The frame keeps the stencil flat, and acts as an electrolyte dam by stopping any overflow. I don't use any tape.
 
I made a frame from kydex - it is 2x2" with a rectangular cut-out for the marking head. The stencil is adhered to the frame with silicone caulk. The frame keeps the stencil flat, and acts as an electrolyte dam by stopping any overflow. I don't use any tape.

Can you show a pic of that on the blade? Sounds interesting.
 
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