Need help with new strops & debating between diamond pray and diamond paste

diamond pray
Yes when it comes to strops praying helps.
however
I find voodoo, specifically sacrificing at least one three legged chicken, is scads quicker and more effective.
Or just finish on a stone. (three legged chickens are harder to come by than they once were . . . everybody thinking nirvana can be had with a strop and following the chicken way . . . nah dude, nah)
 
I stopped stropping in the traditional sense years ago. Though I do finish the apex with one edge trailing pass per side on every knife. Weight of the blade pressure.
 
Could you use the work sharp pro to first sharpen and then use the sandpaper on the edge with the compound or do you have a suggestion for a type of strop with a compound after the blade has already been sharpened by the machine to get the mirror finish....im very new to this any help would be appreciate I'm trying to narrow down the tools I'll need and the specific types and brands I should get ie:for example is there a brand of a strop I could get from amazon

You can certainly use the WS and follow on with a hard strop. It is important it be hard. You can also use a fine diamond plate or waterstone to apply a microbevel. The strop is going to be more forgiving but work less aggressively.
 
Super interesting, thanks! I've been doing this approach (backhoning very lightly on a water stone in lieu of traditional stropping) without realizing fully what positive effects it was providing.

HH, when you use this approach, assuming just a few super light edge-trailing strokes, is it important to backhone at the exact sharpening angle? Or do you want a slightly lower angle in this case?

I confess, stropping is the most confusing subject in sharpening for me. Everybody I talk to has a different approach. I've tried several: traditional leather, suede with compound, hard balsa block, HH's approach of paper + coarse stone + compound, and now backhoning. Of all of these, and in my limited experience and without any Cliff Stamp-approved scientific testing, the last 2 appeared to get the best results on my knives and did it with the least amount of mess, hassle, gadgets, and farting around with stuff. ;)

You can backhone at the same angle or a slightly elevated angle. If I'm doing a relatively coarse edge I'll elevate the spine to apply a slight micro. If I'm working up to a super bright finish I'll backhone at closer to the original angle. Usually is a slightly higher angle.

I made a guided system for myself to use with all my stones, and included a quick adjust for micro at an average 2° per side. To me this is perfect.
 
You can backhone at the same angle or a slightly elevated angle. If I'm doing a relatively coarse edge I'll elevate the spine to apply a slight micro. If I'm working up to a super bright finish I'll backhone at closer to the original angle. Usually is a slightly higher angle.

I made a guided system for myself to use with all my stones, and included a quick adjust for micro at an average 2° per side. To me this is perfect.

Got it. Similar to your backhoning-on-a-stone approach, if you are stropping on a hard surface, say your paper-on-stone approach, do you also use a slightly elevated angle with really light pressure there?
 
Got it. Similar to your backhoning-on-a-stone approach, if you are stropping on a hard surface, say your paper-on-stone approach, do you also use a slightly elevated angle with really light pressure there?

No. The bit of give the paper has is going to be in the .5-1 degree range even with relatively perfect control.

On plain paper you can elevate and do some higher angle passes to burnish the steel, not a good idea with abrasive with one exception.

If resetting a bevel to a very low angle it will toughen up the apex to increase the angle a bit. On a regular strop this happens as a matter of course, on a very hard strop it might not. So if I'm setting an edge to 22° inclusive I might elevate slightly on the strop to bring apex angle up closer to 27-28.
 
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