Need help with sharpening on my Hapstone M3 (Sharpening journal)

For spot's on the bevel that the stone is missing and that mainly happens at the heel and tip is to use a bit more pressure on one side of the stone.

When I say to put more pressure on one side of the stone think of it like your grabbing a handle and twisting it's same thing you need to do with the guide rod almost like your trying to lift one side of the stone up into the air but you don't really want to lift one side of the stone into the air,you want the side of the stone that your putting more pressure on to also be moving toward the area your trying to clean up when sharpening.

Another thing to try is to clamp the knife normally and not on angle like in the pictures and clamp the knife so the ricasso area is close to the centerline of the clamp and just sharpen it other sharpening in that area that way if your just going for a working edge.

Also with Spyderco knive's like the Shaman PM2 Manix and Military just to name a few you most likely know about that little nub of metal that Spyderco leaves in the ricasso area you can also clamp the knife in like you normally would and not on an angle like in the pictures and place the knife with the ricasso in the centerline of the clamp or inline with the shaft on the flipper unit,and you can use the same method and use more of the corner of the stone like a Venev 120 grit and grind that nub out,I wouldn't grind anymore then half out with the Venev 80 or 120 grit and then remove the rest with a 240 grit stone as it's easy to over do it with the 80 and 120 grit.

I also use a 20 or 30x loupe to check often when grinding off that nub to check progress.
 
Bluemantra said:
I have the matrix stones too, but it seems right at the edge there are faint scratches that seem to come from the stone. Do you tape all the way right up to the edge?
Click to expand...

Like this?

Edge120.JPG
 
Mine was due to a very coarse and friable abrasive.
Loose grits got in between the stone and the blade and made the scratches.
It doesn't happen often with diamond stones >#150.
I clean the stone, blade, and the stage often, though.

Yours looks a bit different from mine.
It looks more like the blade position changed downward at the spot.
That may occur if the blade is held on the stage at the flat area, or if the primary grind is convex or concave.

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This guy makes it look so easy and should only take 10 minutes. I have the same CKTG stone and things don’t ever work out this smooth for me.


Same with this guy. They make it look so easy. But alas I continue to struggle.

 
I feel like this is one of my better sharpenings. Got into the ricasso a little, need to work on that. But, I feel like drawing that imaginary line from tip to heel is yielding some of my better results. Used diamond matrix stones up to 2300 and then stropped 1 micron gunny juice, i know it’s a big jump, going to be ordering the 4000 and I have a spyderco ultra fine edge pro mounted on the way.





 
Sharpened my Spydiechef at 15dps. Set the bevel with my CKTG 140 and went up to Diamond Matrix 2300. I feel I’ve got the tip down pretty much. The heel at the plunge grind is still where I struggle. My stones hit into the shoulder of the scales. I thought about removing the scales tonight. Due to the shape of the blade I was concerned about bevel width from heel to tip if I lined up the plunge grind parallel to the stone. Any tips on sharpening the Spydiechef?









 
I got to looking at one of my Manix 2’s tonight and noticed one side looks different than a stock unsharpened Manix 2. It seems with factory angles sometimes significant steel needs to be removed to even out the edge and set each side at the same degrees. Is this normal? Is this excessive sharpening? I’m thinking of abandoning reprofiling to 15dps or 20dps, it seems it take a lot of steel removal sometimes and mostly on one side. As you can see in photos the M390 Manix looks different in second photo, more like factory versus the first photo. By the way I matched the factory angle to 17dps. This is after two full sharpening. Just looking to learn an hear what other’s experience has been, I really want to master sharpening. In measuring at the plunge it is about .043” shorter in height on the sharpened Manix 2, I have no idea if that is a ton or a little or average. You can see on the factory REX45 Manix that the factory edge is wider at the tip and belly and narrow as it goes back to the plunge.



 
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