need info on clay quenching 1080.

[Belstain]

Just when I start getting used to 1084 they up and stop making it. So now I have gone and bought some 1080. Is there any difference in heat treating?
Also I have never done heat treating with clay so what's the process? I've read that satanite works good, what about itc100? I plan on putting a thin coat over the whole thing then wrapping with some fine wire and putting a thicker coat over the spine maybe 1/8". will that work? Should I quench in oil or water?

 

[NickWheeler]

Unless you found a really cheap source for ITC-100, I wouldn't use it, it's too expensive for clay=hardening.

I use Satanite and really like it. You can buy it in many places, but it's really easy to just order it from K&G.

Don't worry about the wire, that's something a lot of people do per the advice of Bob Engnath, but he was using an AP Green product that didn't adhere as well as Satanite does. With Satanite, you don't need the wire, and it will only get in the way when you're trying to hurry and temper the blade.

Mix a very thin wash of Satanite and brush it over the blade. I like to leave the blade rough, a draw-filed surface works well. I used to take the blade to at least 220x because everybody told me I had to. Then I read more and experimented more. Personally, the big "have=to" in this process is getting the blade tempered ASAP after hardening.

After you get the wash on the blade, then you can apply a thicker mix of the Satanite to the spine. The way you apply it will strongly determine the hamon you create...along with grain structure, time, and temp.

I am getting more activity with more experience using Tough Quench from Brownell's. I still can get a little more of the quirky character in the hamon quenching in water, but that's lack of experience. Don Fogg can get amazing hamons in 1095 with Tough Quench and Satanite.

You really won't notice a difference in 1080 vs. 1084. If anything the difference in Manganese content would improve clay-hardening results, but I don't think you'll notice.

Keep us posted on how it works!

Keep in mind this is all what works for me and what I know, I'm not in any way saying it's THE way to do it.

Nick

 

[Sethhoward]

Nick,

You mentioned grain structure, time, and temp. It seems I am getting much better hamon activity with lower temps with very little time at temp. This go along with what you are experiencing?



Seth

 

[Belstain]

So I should quench in water when clay hardening?
What temp does the water need to be? Or does it matter?

I will be using satanite in the future, but, all I have right now is ITC100 and the knife needs to be done by wednesday.

Should I leave the edge a little thicker than normal for clay quench?

 

[burke531]

You're going to have a hell of a time getting the itc off the blade after it is quenched. A better alternative would be to go to the hardware store and get some furnace cement. Please don't ask me how I know about the ITC 100.

 

[Belstain]

Ok, it's 10pm and the knife just went in the oven at 400 degrees.
I had no trouble getting the ITC100 off the blade. I put as thin a coat as I could over the whole blade then wrapped it with 22ga binding wire spaced about 1/2" . Then a thicker coat (about 1/8") over the back half of the blade. Heated to non magnetic and quenched in water. After quench I just grabbed the end of the wire and unwrapped it. That got almost all of the ITC100 off. I used a piece of 120 grit wrapped around my finger to get the rest off.

I really need to get some satanite though. I used about $15 of ITC100 on this knife

This is the biggest knife I have ever made at 23 1/2 inches overall. It's my personal camp knife I had a 9" blade for a while, then a buddy comissioned a 13" blade and I had to have one bigger than what I made for him so now I've got 18!!!

After quench she was straight as an arrow and I didn't hear any pinging or other odd noises durring quench so hopefully all is well. We'll just have to wait for finish grinding and hand sanding tomorrow to find out.