Need input on knife design

C

CShepherd

Joined
Feb 27, 2006
Messages
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Hello all,

I'm fairly new to knifemaking and do all stock removal at this time. What I need is your input on some specific aspects of a knife I'm working on.

It's a scaled down Khukuri for use as a woods knife. I've always loved this blade design but most of them are too large to carry on the belt all the time when hiking/hunting/camping. This what I'm going for.

The blade will be roughly 7" long with more of a modern handle contour. What I'm wondering is whether one of the higher end stainless steels, such as S30V or CPM154CM would be better or would a carbon steel such as 1084 be better. This will primarily be a chopper with general all around usage thrown in. Rust resistance is not a major concern for me. I've never had a problem with that and do take the time to maintain all of my knives.

I plan on using 1/4" thick steel. My other question is for the bevel grind. My thought is that a flat or convex grind would be quite a bit stronger for a chopper than a hollow grind. Any thoughts or input would be greatly appreciated.

I'll try to get a scan of my sketch and post it in the next day or so.

Thanks to all who respond.

Charles
 
I also like the form and shape of the Khukuri.
As you do stock removal , how are you going to make the normal Khukuri bent shape?

I dont have any advice or even ideas about what type of steel to use.
I would love to see you make this knife as I would like to see some ideas on this design.
I would make my knife out of spring 5160 as thats what I have a ton of anyway, and it takes a good beating.
 
I'd go convex for a chopper, it makes it stronger. I'd also go with a good carbon steel, in keeping with the traditional material.

Good luck and post a photo when done.

Frank
 
I would suggest using 1095,1084,52100 steel. they make great using knives. carbon steel holds a better edge and it is a tradition. But there's always someone that will disagree. I do not think you will be disappointed at the end of the job. God bless and have a safe and fantastic day.
 
I was definetely leaning towards the 1095/1084 route. Partially because I'm learning to heat treat carbon blades and like the idea of being able to do that myself. The convex edge sounds like the way to go but I'll have to learn how to do that. I'm getting a 1x30 grinder soon so I'll be able to start learning how to do that.

Thanks for all of the input.

Charles
 
Another reason to go with a cheap steel like 1095 is that stock removal kurk will take a 3-4" tall blank. 4" barstock in the pricier steels hurts the wallet bad. Just a 3' Section of CPM M4 is over a hundred bucks in 1 1/2". You wont find convex to hard but at the same time I am still trting to get mine the way I want it. I like flat sides with just the right amount of convex on the top and bottom. Somehow I always manage to screw it up and just kinda smooth the whole thing into an ok convex grind. No one but me knows it wasnt what I was hoping for, but I do. Maybe someone else can chime in with convex tips.
 
you want convex tips? talk to swede2207. HEHEHEHEHE!!! of course im referring to his first knife that rarely anyone gets to see. he did however choose the right section of a deer antler cause it felt so perfect in my right hand. had all the right curves.
 
Maybe you could recoup some of the cost of that wide stock. Seems to me, if you're careful cutting out the profile the waste might provide some nice pieces for much smaller knives. Aren't kukris supposed to come with a matching small utility knife? It would be cool if you made them from the same bar.
 
GibsonFan said:
Maybe you could recoup some of the cost of that wide stock. Seems to me, if you're careful cutting out the profile the waste might provide some nice pieces for much smaller knives. Aren't kukris supposed to come with a matching small utility knife? It would be cool if you made them from the same bar.
Click to expand...

It's funny you mention the smaller knife since I do in fact plan on making a smaller 2 - 2 1/2" bladed 3-finger knife to sit in a small sheath on the outside of the larger Khukuri sheath. Since the Khukuri is best suited as a chopper and general woods knife the smaller one would be for skinning/caping, detailed work and such. It will have a more pointed blade shape with thin flat handle scales to make it fit nice and tight against the Khukuri sheath.

This will definetely be a longer project with as slow as I move on making things. Funny how time slips by when you work a bunch and have a family too (no regrets though).

Charles
 
I know what you mean about time slipping by if you have a job and family- I'm in the same boat- we just had a new (the last) baby, making a total of 5 kids here. We're trying to juggle our house/yard, an agri business and regular scheduled work...But sometimes these knives seem to make themselves if you can sneak into the garage.

No regrets here, either.

Nothing wrong with using a harbor freight 12.99 angle grinder to cut your stock to shape, or try a dremel with the little cut off discs- you will be able to save more usable steel for the smaller blades with the dremel. Try a few garage sales for a 4x36 belt/disc sander- they seem pretty prevalent in my area for the same price as a harbor freight 1x30 grinder...and you can get alot of shaping done with that 4" belt width
 
CShepherd said:
The blade will be roughly 7" long with more of a modern handle contour. What I'm wondering is whether one of the higher end stainless steels, such as S30V or CPM154CM would be better or would a carbon steel such as 1084 be better. This will primarily be a chopper with general all around usage thrown in. Rust resistance is not a major concern for me.
Click to expand...

Any time impacts will be involved in the primary job description, properly treated carbon is the way to go. You said rust resistance is no big deal, and that's the only positive thing a high carbide stainless has to offer for this type of application. Normally I'd say a 7" blade is short enough that you wouldn't be able to generate enough power to damage a stainless blade, but I found otherwise with my Benchmade folder. All those carbides in the stainless won't help your edge retention if the edge keeps breaking off.
 
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