Need it longer

The 1095 is 53" long and 1 5/8"wide. Lengths weighs 9#'s If you're forging It should be enough for a Zweihander and a Bastard sword.(Just so you know)

Aldo

PS- Maybe a Bowie as well:)
 
5160 is a good choice for a big blade like that. A 9" angle grinder is real handy to grind on a big blade. You can clamp the blade to a bench and make big sweeps of the blade with the angle grinder. I have 2 belt grinders and still find it easer to grind blades over 24" with a angle grinder.
 
well im back and need advice. i talked to the customer and he does not want it heat treated :eek:. i dont know how i feel about this. on one hand im like ok that makes life easyer but then im like do i want my name atatched to somthing that wont hold an edge. what do think. but then i got a thought, now dont laugh at me. but what if i ground out the profile then cold forged :rolleyes: down the edge bevels. that would give me the width i would need and some hardnes and an ok finish. he wants a hammerd finish on the blade.
 
Is there any reason they don't want it HT'd? Also I never heard back from you if you got my email, but in it I explained how these swords really have alot of flex and the majority of the blade is not razor sharp. So work hardening could be feasible.
Grant
 
yes i got your email, thanks. he says its just to hang on the wall and that he does not want it heat treated. i have heard that work hardening carbon steel can reach some times 50ish RC.
 
Yeah my experience has been with 1050 and 4130 sheet for armour applications and it will get very springy, very fast from working. It will certainly be enough for a sharpened wallhanger.
Grant
 
If it's just to hang on a wall, why not use mild steel and save the good stuff for when it counts. That way his sword is longer, but not hard :confused: and you can save your tool steel for when you need something long and hard. :D After all, you wouldn't be stiffing him by using soft steel since his sword is just for show and tell and won't need to do any real thrusting and plunging, etc. :eek:
 
Does the carbon content affect the amount of work hardening
 
so then would mild steel 1018 not get very hard. if i need to use my 5160 thats fine but if it gets just as hard as 1018 then why use it.
 
It takes a long time for mild to work harden and it never really gets very hard. I would just take a bit of both steels and experiment. Thats really the best way to know what you'll get and what will work. I probably wouldn't drop below a 1050 equivalent though.
Grant
 
OK, I'll jump in.
The carbon content has nothing to due with work hardening. Work hardening is a function of the grains and structures getting fractured and misaligned such that they become stiff. Work hardening won't make a sword hard. It can make an edge harder ( the only "edge packing" that isn't a myth is cold working an edge). For an unhardened wall hanger, any steel you use will be about the same. The 5160 sword will be slightly harder because the 5160 starts out a little harder.
Stacy
 
All I can go by is my experience. 1050 always work hardens significantly faster than mild. Maybe there's another factor contributing to this? Thats just my experience.
Grant
 
Grant,
My answer was not phrased properly, and was misleading. The carbon isn't what makes the work hardening , it is the amount of grain and structure. The higher the carbon content, the more grain and structures.(So, in a way the carbon has much to do with it).The amount of alloy elements also makes a big difference. Carbon steels start out harder than mild steel, so they end up harder,too.Alloy steels are often even harder.
Sorry for the misleading post.
Stacy
 
Ah, that makes sense to me now. Its always nice to know why somethings happening.
Thanks Stacy!
Grant
 
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