Need opinion which way to go on the blade stop pin.

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It's too late now, I guess, but just grind the tip of the drill flat. It will cut well enough for that little bit.
Machinists flat grind the tip of drills to get a square bottomed hole all the time. It won't cut as well as a drill, of course. So, what you do is drill the hole to depth with a regular drill and then use the flat bottomed drill to take out just the angle the drill tip made.

"Flat bottomed drills, they make the rockin' world go 'round"
 
alan0354 said:
I just want to concentrate on how to get it done, I really don't want to talk about why.

Thanks
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Boy, you are quite the walking contradiction. First you want discussion on the how's and why's and now you don't.

As for getting it done, you seem to really be struggling with simple concepts for someone of your alleged background.

As you've said yourself numerous times...."It's not rocket science".
 
A small milling cutter in a drill press would give the best results if you want to countersink the pin into the frame/liner. They are not really meant to be used as a drill, but since the center area is already open and the amount of material to remove is small, a plunge cut would give nice square shoulders. Not too expensive, and you‘ll have it for future projects.
 
J. Doyle said:
Boy, you are quite the walking contradiction. First you want discussion on the how's and why's and now you don't.

As for getting it done, you seem to really be struggling with simple concepts for someone of your alleged background.

As you've said yourself numerous times...."It's not rocket science".
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The guy wants to be patted on the head and told he’s a genius, and have us crowd around in awe of his engineering prowess.

He’s JUST here to talk engineering and knife construction. Unless you disagree with him. Then he’s not interested in conversation.

🤷‍♂️
 
J. Doyle said:
Boy, you are quite the walking contradiction. First you want discussion on the how's and why's and now you don't.

As for getting it done, you seem to really be struggling with simple concepts for someone of your alleged background.

As you've said yourself numerous times...."It's not rocket science".
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I reported you, I really don't want to get into fights.
 
alan0354 said:
Reason is the ball bearing is not the metal cage bearing. Just cheap plastic with balls in it as shown.
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What makes you think the plastic is not as good as a metal cage? Got any evidence of why, specific to caged bearings in knives? Many of the high end knives use plastic cages, not just the cheap knives you are looking at.

alan0354 said:
I just want to concentrate on how to get it done, I really don't want to talk about why.
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Well, you've been told how, and it is a ton of work with special tools and skills, probably a bit of trial and error. So off you go!

That said, we still want to know if this is a even worth the savings in thickness and if the bearings really need changing. To me, you've created a problem for yourself that only has a complicated and unrealistic solution. So let's discuss the whys and try to find you a better knife! You may need to pay a bit more and compromise a little on some things, but I think that is far more reasonable than what you are attempting.
 
craytab said:
What makes you think the plastic is not as good as a metal cage? Got any evidence of why, specific to caged bearings in knives? Many of the high end knives use plastic cages, not just the cheap knives you are looking at.


Well, you've been told how, and it is a ton of work with special tools and skills, probably a bit of trial and error. So off you go!

That said, we still want to know if this is a even worth the savings in thickness and if the bearings really need changing. To me, you've created a problem for yourself that only has a complicated and unrealistic solution. So let's discuss the whys and try to find you a better knife! You may need to pay a bit more and compromise a little on some things, but I think that is far more reasonable than what you are attempting.
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I really don't want to go over, we disagree on everything already. I look at the design, the blade thickness to stand up for prying. strong pivot area with no thinning to accommodate the bearings. Larger distance from pivot to the pivot center as shown in the first picture in the very first post. AND particular I look for some softer steel that doesn't crack as easy.

I also look for longer flipper tap to protect my fingers. This one has it all other than the pivot is 0.2" diameter.

We strongly disagree, so there is NO POINT in talking about it anymore.

PLEASE, if you have contribution on my questions, by all means. I don't want to get into opinions that we strongly disagree.

Thanks
 
alan0354 said:
I really don't want to go over, we disagree on everything already. I look at the design, the blade thickness to stand up for prying. strong pivot area with no thinning to accommodate the bearings. Larger distance from pivot to the pivot center as shown in the first picture in the very first post. AND particular I look for some softer steel that doesn't crack as easy.

I also look for longer flipper tap to protect my fingers. This one has it all other than the pivot is 0.2" diameter.

We strongly disagree, so there is NO POINT in talking about it anymore.

PLEASE, if you have contribution on my questions, by all means. I don't want to get into opinions that we strongly disagree.

Thanks
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There is nothing else left then. You know what you need to do. Go on and destroy that knife. Report back with how it went and we can discuss a replacement when you are ready 😁
 
craytab said:
There is nothing else left then. You know what you need to do. Go on and destroy that knife. Report back with how it went and we can discuss a replacement when you are ready 😁
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Let other people be the judge.

I just finished one borrow the blade stop pin from another knife and is PERFECT, no more ball bearings, smooth, good liner lock engage, no blade wiggle.
 
Personally I thought the best solution would have been to thin out the liners at the stop pin. You wouldn't need to make perfectly square holes to the exact dimension of the pin for it to function properly. I think you could have just sanded or filed the whole section around the pin flat. But I understand that you probably wanted it to look normal and so that's why you avoided doing that. It may have also reduced the strength of the liners and introduced some flex, maybe?

Never mind. Disregard this. ☺️
 
Guy McVer said:
Personally I thought the best solution would have been to thin out the liners at the stop pin. You wouldn't need to make perfectly square holes to the exact dimension of the pin for it to function properly. I think you could have just sanded or filed the whole section around the pin flat. But I understand that you probably wanted it to look normal and so that's why you avoided doing that. It may have also reduced the strength of the liners and introduced some flex, maybe?

Never mind. Disregard this. ☺️
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No, keep talking, I am all ears on this.

The liner is only 0.045" thick, it's ok as is, but thinning more would be thin.

I am looking for the easiest way. I just need to find a shorter pin like this:

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I don't know what this call. I need to find one that is 2.5mm at both ends, 3mm in the middle and 4mm spacing. If I can find that, I can just put it in and is done.
I found one in another knife, put it in IT'S PERFECT.
 
Well it might be tedious but I would try taking the edge of a piece of sandpaper and just sanding one side of the pin down a bit. It would cause one end of the pin to stick out past the liner a little bit, but you could sand that down too.

You can brace the sandpaper against something flat and rigid if you are having trouble with it flexing too much. Something like a thin metal scraper might work.
 
alan0354 said:
Let other people be the judge.

I just finished one borrow the blade stop pin from another knife and is PERFECT, no more ball bearings, smooth, good liner lock engage, no blade wiggle.
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Well there you go! Done and done. Now get to testing. You gotta make sure that knife will never fail in an extended survival situation.
 
alan0354 said:
I really don't want to go over, we disagree on everything already. I look at the design, the blade thickness to stand up for prying. strong pivot area with no thinning to accommodate the bearings. Larger distance from pivot to the pivot center as shown in the first picture in the very first post. AND particular I look for some softer steel that doesn't crack as easy.

I also look for longer flipper tap to protect my fingers. This one has it all other than the pivot is 0.2" diameter.

We strongly disagree, so there is NO POINT in talking about it anymore.

PLEASE, if you have contribution on my questions, by all means. I don't want to get into opinions that we strongly disagree.

Thanks
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Unfortunately you don't get to make ridiculous unfounded claims that you can't prove AND tell people to stop calling you out on your B.S.

Many of us are still waiting for you to show any actual evidence of breakage or damage to a pivot pin, stop pin, bearing pocket or bearing cage.

You are looking for solutions to problems that don't exist.

And everyone is free to post until the moderators tell them they can't. We don't require your permission.

By the way.....to save you the time and effort, I've self reported this post.
 
Could you take one unmodified version of the blade and the modified version insert both into the same depth of a vice and see which fails first and where, that is still not scientific but may demonstrate the point you are trying to make well.
 
To moderator

I am trying very hard not to argue, is this fair that I got punished when I argue back.

I am totally ok if you let me duke it out and not close the thread. But this is one way insulting. Let me know whether it's ok for me to fight back and not punish me and not closing the thread again like before.

It has to be fair. Or let me know this is how this forum is.

Thanks.
 
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