Need piece of damascus surface ground

SteelSlaver

SteelSlaver

Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Messages
3,375
I have a piece of damascus that has been ground to .152, but I would like it to be about .08 so I can make some folder blades. The blades I want to make need to be .072. I don't mind some sanding on a granite plate, but not that much and still expect them to come out flat and parallel. The piece is 1" wide and 12" long. If I can get to .08 I will profile, drill and ream pivot hole then harden and temper then grind bevels and then sand on plate to remove decarb and achieve correct thickness on flats. Ya, they are going to be replacement blades for kit folders, but, a guy has to start somewhere on folders. A surface grinder is in my future but not until after new house is complete and shop add on. Things in the shop are crowded now.

On a side note, I have done this before by hand and noticed that after the HT the pivot hole shrunk a bit and the pivot would not fit until I reworked hole with a diamond file. How do you avoid this? I am OK with touching up the lock notch with diamond files, but I don't think a file is the way to go for a "perfect" pivot hole which is key to smooth action and keeping blade aligned.
 
Last edited:
Hi Jim,
That is a lot of grinding. I would think that a piece 12" long would curl up a lot too.
If you decide to have it ground cut it into the lengths you want and grind the blades from top to bottom and not length wise. This will reduce the curling. A stop behind the parts should keep the pieces from flying off the table.
You might want to sell what you have and buy a thinner piece if possible.
Dave
 
I'd shell mill most of it off, cut to lengths then surface grind a couple thou over final.
 
Regarding the shrinking pivot hole, I know a few makers lap the pivot hole using a diamond paste compound post HT.
 
ib2v4u said:
I have a piece of damascus that has been ground to .152, but I would like it to be about .08 so I can make some folder blades. The blades I want to make need to be .072. I don't mind some sanding on a granite plate, but not that much and still expect them to come out flat and parallel. The piece is 1" wide and 12" long. If I can get to .08 I will profile, drill and ream pivot hole then harden and temper then grind bevels and then sand on plate to remove decarb and achieve correct thickness on flats. Ya, they are going to be replacement blades for kit folders, but, a guy has to start somewhere on folders. A surface grinder is in my future but not until after new house is complete and shop add on. Things in the shop are crowded now.

On a side note, I have done this before by hand and noticed that after the HT the pivot hole shrunk a bit and the pivot would not fit until I reworked hole with a diamond file. How do you avoid this?

I am OK with touching up the lock notch with diamond files, but I don't think a file is the way to go for a "perfect" pivot hole which is key to smooth action and keeping blade aligned.
Click to expand...

You could drill small and after HT ream with carbide reamer, finish with lapping.
 
On the pivot hole I was told to use a barrel lap like mrp said.

Also drop me a line I can draw that and surface grind it for you.
 
I appreciate all the answers and solid advice. I am going to get with Mike Quesenberry and have it drawn and ground. I appreciate the Mike Turners offer to grind it too. Lots of good people here. Jim
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top