need rifile scope

get as good a scope as ya can afford imho, the better ones hold zero better and most important (to me anyway) is they gather lite better early/late in the day, i didnt even try to hit a really nice mulie because the scope i had at the time just didnt gather the lite well enough and i just couldnt see the crosshairs or the target well enough to try, IIRC it was an old BSA which was on the rifle when i bought it ( a browning BLR .243) but i replaced it w/a leupold 3X9 and with it it woulda been an easy shot FWIW.

i have had fair luck with simmons and tasco and they are fairly cheap, really.

some of the old weavers were good too.

but if it was me, ya spend so much going hunting with license, gas, lease, your time/etc its not saving any $$ if a cheap scope costs ya a buck.
 
Buy cheap, buy twice.

I'd save my money and wait and get they best I can afford unless it isn't used very often or it isn't a piece of mission essential gear. Critters, deserve to be killed with dignity, honor, humanly and as quickly as possible. Watching or knowing an animal has been gut shot or shot in the rear quarters because someone didn't bother to pay their dues to learn correctly how to shoot an optic equipped rifle and/or has poor gear that fails in a mission critical moment isn't our finest hour as a human race.

Anything from Leupold/Redfield is going to be rugged, reliable, REPEATABLE, and hard core. Assuming one truly has mastered the five principles of general marksmanship (most hunters and shooters haven't) and the seven specific fundamentals when shooting higher velocity optic equipped rifles (like yours) then having gear that is repeatable is essential in the harvesting of game.

Lesser expensive optics are generally less repeatable with your firing solutions and only equates to a higher probability of wounded game, misses, and hunter frustration....don't ask me how I know!

You need something that won't let you down and won't let down your game. You'll need something that has the capacity to consistantly repeat firing solutions, have the capacity to dial in your DOPE at least two ways, and be able to range distance reliably and repeatably. But what the heck do I know?
 
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Anything with Leopold, Burris, Nikon, or Pentax names on it should work out well. Old B&L scopes made in Japan were very good. Also had American made Weaver K-10 that was outstanding. Japanese made Weavers were good value. Tasco World Class were good for the money, again Japanese made models were the best.
My friend's Redfield 2X7 was a piece of crap, this was the original American company not the new ones. After hearing about what great scopes these were, we went through two boxes of ammo trying to zero that in and it never would hold. Sent it in to the factory and they said it did not have a problem. I gave him a WC Tasco for Christmas that year, it zeroed in on three rounds and held it.
 
Nightforce is the bomb along with Schmidt and Bender! I'd put S&B in first place and NF in second for my missions and Leupold is in 3rd place. I am currently using Leupolds.

However, let's keep it real as we must realize that 99.8% of the shooters on the planet skills, knowledge, and abilities are way behind the capability of the optic. I've been training since 1973 and I'm just now approaching the skill level now to start justifying purchasing one and be able to fully use it to its capability. It isn't about the money because my business buys my optics/gear. It is about living up to one's capabilities and getting full use out of a piece of gear. It is more than achieving a high CDI factor!

Why encourage someone to spend over $2000 for an optic when most shooters cannot even fully utilize or maximize the capacity of an $800 optic? Most of my clients even after three days of training in the classroom and range cannot fully utilize a standard Mil Dot, TMR, or SPR. They're very dialed in, but still struggle with it even at mid-range.
 
it matters not your skill level if your scope doesnt gather the lite well enough to see the target, sure, in nice, sunny conditions a BSA (or whatever) will probably work ok, now it might just be me but almost all my shots seem to be either early or late in the day with lite conditions getting poor.
 
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