Need simplistic/basic opinion/advice on blade steel

IMO when it comes to EDC, the question of steels is more about « hype » than practical use

vg10, 154cm, s30v, 420hc, 12c27 or 14c28n are all excellent steels for EDC but will very often be despised because they are not the “new kids in the block”however I had very good experiences with them and I have no problems having them for edc

based on personal experience I don’t like 440* steels, and my experience with 8cr* and 9cr* is limited
I have no experience with D2
 
Very good advice above.

With specific regards to the PM2: I bought the S110V version just as I was getting into knives and before I had any real skill at sharpening. The factory edge took a small chip and I had a brutal time sharpening it out. I don’t know where you are in that regard, so I’ll throw it out there.

All of the Microtech steels I’m familiar with (Elmax, M390, 204p, XHP) are very good. I’m a particular fan of XHP which in my hands sharpens & touches up fairly easily and has edge retention & stain resistance more than satisfying my needs. I find Elmax, M390, 204p harder to sharpen (but much easier than S110V). It’s a personal thing. (I only have Spyderco XHP FWIW).

Since I’m sort of on the topic, I had knives in Aus-8, VG-10 and Buck 420hc when I started getting into knives. It gave me a sense of satisfaction making and keeping them sharp. Assuming the knife has good geometry, there are only a few things I do that really require better edge holding, given the ease of touch-up. (Again, a personal thing)
 
I only use my knives to cut things. Not to pry, baton or chop so S30V is honestly good enough. Everything else like S45VN, 20CV, etc is just gravy.

This may sound dumb to most but I've shied away from tool steels because I don't quite understand the level of maintenance they need. I understand they need to be oiled every so often but don't get what that means exactly. Is it a complete tear down to oil the tang every time? Do I need to oil them if ones in my pocket and it rained or snowed?
 
Not to imply that steel / HT doesn't matter , but it won't make up for not being able to sharpen .

In fact the highest retention / hardest steel may just make it more difficult .

Learn to sharpen . Especially light touch-up / honing . Perform frequently, at first sign of dulling .

This takes only seconds on an almost sharp edge , once you are skilled .
 
My suggestions:

For decent edge retention, awesome toughness and ease of sharpening - 1095.
-cons: not stainless, it rusts very easily

Decent edge retention, fairly easy to sharpen and still tough stainless steel - AUS8.
-cons: bit less edge retention and sometimes stubborn burr during sharpening

Excellent edge retention, good corrosion resistance and good toughness - D2
-cons: it's not easy to sharpen once it's dull, but it's not an issue if you have a diamond sharpener


All 3 steels are time tested and proven, and also affordable.
 
The flavor of the steel changes from time to time, but stick with what works for you and do not over think it. Heat treat and edge geometry are important to consider too. I have good results with Sandvik, and.....hate to admit it, some Chinese stuff (8Cr13Mov) from AG Russell did fine for my EDC options. I am curious about 3V, as I have heard that it is a good all around steel for fixed blades. I also have a few in CPM 154 I want to try out. Most of my early knives I got are in 01 and 1095. I need to get my ML Hudson Bay out and use it.....something I have been saying for a looooooonnnggg time. :rolleyes: Experiment a little, if you can borrow a few or obtain them for a good price. But the latest steel does not mean the others are obsolete.
 
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Everyone is stating that S30V is a good place to start and they are correct. However 154cm isn’t bad. It holds an edge reasonably well and is easy to maintain.

Most companies are shifting away from 154 for the added benefits of S30 but, 154 really is a good steel for general use. It wasn’t that long ago that 154 was considered a super steel. Don’t pass it up for S30 if you find something you like.
 
Long ago, 34 years, to be exact, a wise man (knifemaker and designer Blackie Collins) told me something that has stuck with me ever since. "There's no such thing as a bad knife steel. If it can be hardened above about RC55 or 56, it can be made into a perfectly serviceable blade, if the heat treatment is right for the intended use" Almost any tool steel, and many low-alloy steels, make great blade stock. It's on the maker to provide the proper heat treat. Many steels are designed specifically for cutting tools. The Swedish Sandvik alloys, 12C27, 13C26, 14C28N, etc, are easy to sharpen, take and hold a fine edge, have a very fine grain structure, and are clean steels with few impurities. Not super-steels, by any means, but not trivial alloys, either. VG-10 is a cobalt-steel alloy that is relatively easy to sharpen, takes a very good edge, and holds it acceptably well. 154-CM/ CPM-154? Same thing. And the same with any other steels in wide usage. MOST alloys will out-perform most users!

Find a maker you trust, get a mid-grade alloy blade, learn to sharpen it, and keep it sharp. Go for better steels as your needs evolve, and don't be surprised if you find yourself gravitating back towards lower-spec steels that are more enjoyable to sharpen and use. Mostly, tho, enjoy the hobby, your way.
 
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