Need some advice for my first sharpener. I've already done a search...

guy g said:
I use a Sharpmaker also. Buy a couple of cheap knives to dull up and resharpen. Practice is what makes you good.
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Just practice sharpening cheap kitchen cutlery - your wife will thank you and if you screw up, you won't be out of big bucks.
 
Daniel Koster said:
Since you are brand new to sharpening - I'd say go with the Sharpmaker from SpyderCo.



When you're ready to take it to the next level - give me a holler and we'll get you set up with a belt sander ($30) and a strop ($10) and you'll be able to sharpen anything to a razor edge.

;)
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I wouldnt mind this info. Ive been sharpening knives freehand since I was a kid so needless to say I was the guy all my friends came to to sharpen their knives. Ive been wanting to try out the sharpmaker, and I'd love to hear about this technique.

Thanks...
 
I too am interested in buying the sharpmaker but I had a few questions.
Is it true that the sharpmaker will round off serrations after a while?
Do you NEED the diamond rods?

This is for just regular benchmades (556,710), etc.
 
pmoney: You need the diamond rods only if you need to reprofile an edge, meaning if you want the make substantial changes to the edge bevel. And yes, the sharpmaker will round off the tips of the serrations. But if you maintain your edge in decent shape and use only the whites as suggested by the manual, it will take a loooong time to round the serrations. But even then the serrations will be rounded but still just as sharp and will maintain a higher cutting power than a plain edge.
 
I have the Lansky Sharpening Stones from Extra-Coarse to Sapphire and it seems faster to me, although, I have been using the Arkansas Whetstones for the past 45 years or so

SFC
 
FoxholeAtheist said:
FWIW, if you do need to reprofile with a Sharpmaker, and don't have the money for the diamond rods, just get some wet-dry sandpaper, cut off strips, and clamp them around the stones of the sharpmaker. Works pretty well.
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ARGH....Why did I not think of that before spending $60.00++ to get the diamond rods...ARGH ... Though I am a compleatest and a collector, so I probabaly would have got them anyway.;)

The first time I used a Sharpmaker, I got a really good edge. I have never been able to do as well since.:( I think that the more I try to make sure that the edge is perfectly verticle, the more I get it wrong...

I have the Pro version of the Edge-Pro(They really need to do something about the name... Pro-Edge-Pro and Edge-Pro is confusing!) and it is amazing!
Three swipes with the 3000 grit and I saw my reflection in the edge!:eek:
No Clamps!!! Takes 20-30sec.(if you are slow) to change stones.
ROCK STEADY(The pro version at least)
Sharpens almost ANY size blade(Machites, etc...)
FAST(And I have only used it while sitting at my desk at work, and so have not even wet the stones!)
Trust me....If you get one, Get the COURSE stone to reprofile!!!
I still cannot belive the edge I got on my knife with that thing!
 
HoB said:
pmoney: You need the diamond rods only if you need to reprofile an edge, meaning if you want the make substantial changes to the edge bevel. And yes, the sharpmaker will round off the tips of the serrations. But if you maintain your edge in decent shape and use only the whites as suggested by the manual, it will take a loooong time to round the serrations. But even then the serrations will be rounded but still just as sharp and will maintain a higher cutting power than a plain edge.
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Alright thanks
 
Good advice, as I went through my parents knife drawer(s), and found some very high quality knives that had been forgotten and unused for years just because they were dull. Suddenly there weren't any more mauled slices of tomato being served, and if I can inspect the knives often enough I can set the ones aside that need another honing to get back to sharp, instead of my folks using them until they're even too dull and difficult for their tastes, which means another heavy sharpening session. Since the difference between sharp and dull (seriously dull!), everyone's grateful, and as has been mentioned, screw one up and you're not out much money.
 
UPDATED::

I've had the sharpmaker about 2 weeks now and I'm truly amazed at how quick I was able to pick this up. I read the manual, watched the video and got started with a Glock field knife, so if I screwed it up it wouldn't be too big of deal. Well 15 minutes later (I just went to "utility" sharpness) I cut myself :rolleyes:

So it works great!! I'd recommend the sharpmaker in an instant. I recently bought a used Ontario spec fighter that has been sharpened many times, so I can try the 40 degree - 30 degree technique. I can't thank you guys enough for the guidance. :)
 
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